Makes sense
Your making me want to go back to the shop and try that! This is gonna be the hardest date with the wife tonight, all I’m gona be doing is thinking about commanders LoL
Sure, it can be encapsulated, but to what end? If you are going to drill holes through it there is still a place for water to get in and move past the aluminum. When you start torquing the hardware it will probably separate from the metal, slightly anyway. If you are really worried about drilling holes for your hardware there is a standard. Say you have a normal cored deck. You oversize the drill hole, then fill said hole with thickened epoxy, then drill your hole in the center of the epoxy, no way for water to get to the core. I had to redo all the deck railings on a sailboat this way, after I dug out all the soaked balsa.
I can’t wait to watch it done, if there was a movie how to fibreglass I’d be taking the wife to see it instead of some crap like Batman
No, gravity pulls…..
I can’t wait to watch it done, if there was a movie how to fibreglass I’d be taking the wife to see it instead of some crap like Batman
Gravity is a drag?No, gravity pulls…..
Not too bad if you wet out smaller pieces on the ground on old plywood or plastic sheet/arborite and then lift into place.
Yes, that's the way to do it, still sucks, pulls, and drags...
Agreed. I'm with you, a normal installation with good caulking should do the trick.
If I ever got out for tuna the bbq would mount up top
Sounds like the cleanest option so far
Just a suggestion (great thread BTW), I did this when re-bedding rail mounts on my last boat: after re-building your decking with ply and glass, fasten the aluminum backers on with 5200. Then drill and tap the plates from the top; no nuts required. Then you can tighten or remove the rails from the top only without having to tear into your ceiling to get at nuts.
You should lower the v-berth platform while you're at it. Another thing I hoped to do to mine. The bed (on the 30 at least) is huge. More headroom would be nice.
