Seasport skipper 19 podding project

It depends if the boat already has proper electrical before the podding. There wasn't really much to wire when I did it. I remember mine looked horrible like that at first when yanked engine out. Then I found most of wiring I didn't need at all.

Once you take out the inboard there really isn't much to do. I do agree though if you can redo your dash yourself you can save some money.

I had some help and I paid like 1k tops for wiring. Dash conversion I did myself. Out everything the rigging was most expensive in entire project labour wise.
 
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Are you keeping the Seasport push button breaker box in the dash? I was thinking of replacing mine with a new fuse panel just because of it's age.
 
Are you keeping the Seasport push button breaker box in the dash? I was thinking of replacing mine with a new fuse panel just because of it's age.
I’m not sure as I hadn’t given it any thought up until now. Will have to figure out what my options are and whether it’s worth changing. If it’s a grand or so to make it all new and good then I’d be ok with that. I’m going to go out to the boat in a bit and write down what needs to go from the panel and what stays. I’m not up on changing the electrical but could learn. I’m sure it would be better to have someone in the know do it. I’ve heard Moose from Nanaimo is good.
 
I’m not sure as I hadn’t given it any thought up until now. Will have to figure out what my options are and whether it’s worth changing. If it’s a grand or so to make it all new and good then I’d be ok with that. I’m going to go out to the boat in a bit and write down what needs to go from the panel and what stays. I’m not up on changing the electrical but could learn. I’m sure it would be better to have someone in the know do it. I’ve heard Moose from Nanaimo is good.
Blue Seas has good resources and amperage vs wire gauge charts. I'm in the process of cleaning up my wiring. I started a list of all the existing circuits, figured out fuse size for each device and then wire gauge requirements. I am going to use 14 gauge on 90% of it so bought 100' each of red and black and 100 various crimp splices and terminals to get the discounts at the Harbour Chandler. If you're just replacing existing it can be pretty simple but make sure fuse and wire size are correct.
 
Blue Seas has good resources and amperage vs wire gauge charts. I'm in the process of cleaning up my wiring. I started a list of all the existing circuits, figured out fuse size for each device and then wire gauge requirements. I am going to use 14 gauge on 90% of it so bought 100' each of red and black and 100 various crimp splices and terminals to get the discounts at the Harbour Chandler. If you're just replacing existing it can be pretty simple but make sure fuse and wire size are correct.
Sounds great. You’ll be a real expert after completion. Could even be your side gig, starting over here 😜
 
This is the setup. Main dash has many items that are for the inboard motor and leg. I need to save the leg trim wiring and gauge for the guy that bought the leg and transom shield.
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There are a couple more electric panels. One in transom which downriggers are hooked to. Another in the engine compartment which I’m not sure what it’s for.
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My batteries have always been upfront in the Cuddy, that’s how it was when I bought the boat 16 years ago.
The outboard guy at APM said I may be able to keep them to run the house electrical and then have a stand alone battery in the engine compartment or somewhere in the back for the outboards. Any advice is appreciated.
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This is the setup. Main dash has many items that are for the inboard motor and leg. I need to save the leg trim wiring and gauge for the guy that bought the leg and transom shield.
View attachment 112053
View attachment 112054
The only gauge you need to keep is the fuel gauge, most outboard tachs have everything else built in. Might want a piece of aluminum to cover that and start over and have a switch panel set into it. It's a shame because that is a nice panel.
 
My batteries have always been upfront in the Cuddy, that’s how it was when I bought the boat 16 years ago.
The outboard guy at APM said I may be able to keep them to run the house electrical and then have a stand alone battery in the engine compartment or somewhere in the back for the outboards. Any advice is appreciated.
View attachment 112057
That probably depends on the balance of the boat when you're done. I would leave for now but think the starting battery is better in the stern closer to the motor.
 
The only gauge you need to keep is the fuel gauge, most outboard tachs have everything else built in. Might want a piece of aluminum to cover that and start over and have a switch panel set into it. It's a shame because that is a nice panel.
Will the volt meter be on the outboard gauge(s)?
 
Mercury gauge will have volts and fuel level if you want. Another wiring to purchase but easy install. Are you going with gauges or everything on you fish finder
I’d like to have mostly gauges. I don’t think I’d like too much on the fish finder.
 
I’d like to have mostly gauges. I don’t think I’d like too much on the fish finder.
Mercury eco monitor.
All the info you need plus troll control

 
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