Seasport skipper 19 podding project

[MRWood]

Transom shield is off. Transom looks to be about 2” thick and solid as far as I can tell . Lots of things to disconnect to get that thing off.

 

[MRWood]

It’s starting to take on that scrap yard feel as the parts are starting to pile up. I gotta get some of this stuff on marketplace. Inside the shelter in the back is a bit of a parts graveyard as well.

 

[salmonkiller01]

It’s starting to take on that scrap yard feel as the parts are starting to pile up. I gotta get some of this stuff on marketplace. Inside the shelter in the back is a bit of a parts graveyard as well.
View attachment 111870

I remember that same feeling. I ended up getting around 4500 for my old drive and engine and assorted parts but it took a long time and was very happy to see it go

 

[MRWood]

I remember that same feeling. I ended up getting around 4500 for my old drive and engine and assorted parts but it took a long time and was very happy to see it go

I’d be thrilled to get half that amount. My things are older though so not worth near as much.

 

[salmonkiller01]

I’d be thrilled to get half that amount. My things are older though so not worth near as much.

I would think if you put it all for sale at 2500 someone will want it. Your props are worth that

 

[MRWood]

I would think if you put it all for sale at 2500 someone will want it. Your props are worth that

My props aren’t stainless. They’re worth $800 new for the pair and I have an extra one.

 

[Weatherall]

I've just been through a similar journey last winter with my 24, and I got about $2000 for the engine (5.7) and leg. I probably could have gotten more, but happy to see it get put to good use. I probably should have started a thread, but I was too busy during that period to make it happen. You will love to get rid of your dog house, and the reliability. Cheers.

 

[MRWood]

Down the hole in my happy place, wondering what the frig this wire is for or that wire….cutting zap straps like no tomorrow.
I am progressing though. Got the steering assemblies and connections all out. Will remove steering cable up at helm. Will press on.

 

[MRWood]

Just sold the leg and transom shield. I almost cried watching the new owner drive off with it .
Need the motor sold. I’m driving around with the motor in the back of the truck all wrapped up in a blanket and plastic. People are starting to ask me for mechanical advice

 

[Aces]

Just sold the leg and transom shield. I almost cried watching the new owner drive off with it .
Need the motor sold. I’m driving around with the motor in the back of the truck all wrapped up in a blanket and plastic. People are starting to ask me for mechanical advice

Side hustle

 

[Maxpri]

Down the hole in my happy place, wondering what the frig this wire is for or that wire….cutting zap straps like no tomorrow.
I am progressing though. Got the steering assemblies and connections all out. Will remove steering cable up at helm. Will press on.
View attachment 111966

This was one of the funniest things to me throughout the process. I was sitting there with two full contractor bags of wires wondering how this thing ever worked even sometimes.

 

[MRWood]

Just finished taking the steering system out from the helm. Steering gear box and cable. It amazes me the ingenuity behind all of these parts. Is this something anyone would want or is it considered junk?

 

[MRWood]

It was a hard fought battle with a worthy opponent, a real back and forth, but I was finally able to claim victory.
This is the steering cable and gear box mentioned above.

 

[MRWood]

More cables out. These are the throttle and shift cable that go to the Volvo control in helm, bye bye.
Next is tackling the wiring that needs to go vs the wiring that needs to stay. Keep in mind that I’m no electrical whizz kid.

 

[MRWood]

My new job. I think or hope it’s looks worse than it is. A lot of the bottom wires are for things that will stay, like lights, tabs, radar etc. Happy with the progress.

 

[sly_karma]

Amazes me that so many boat builders do such sloppy wiring. Boats are nasty places for electrical installations, the vibration and pounding can be comparable to what logging trucks live with. Yet we see few holddowns, little or no heat shrink tubing, poorly plated automotive grade connectors. There are several members here whose work is well superior to most OEM.

If it was my project, I'd yank it all. Start fresh so I knew every single connector was properly cramped, soldered and sealed with shrink tube. Full layout on paper mapping out where devices and hold downs will go, then execute.

 

[noluck]

Amazes me that so many boat builders do such sloppy wiring. Boats are nasty places for electrical installations, the vibration and pounding can be comparable to what logging trucks live with. Yet we see few holddowns, little or no heat shrink tubing, poorly plated automotive grade connectors. There are several members here whose work is well superior to most OEM.

If it was my project, I'd yank it all. Start fresh so I knew every single connector was properly cramped, soldered and sealed with shrink tube. Full layout on paper mapping out where devices and hold downs will go, then execute.

i have to agree, i generally strip out the wiring and rewire the boat with tinned wire if it does not have it, as well as heat shrink connectors with proper crimpers

 

[sly_karma]

i have to agree, i generally strip out the wiring and rewire the boat with tinned wire if it does not have it, as well as heat shrink connectors with proper crimpers

You're right. I forgot that's another thing I've seen in some OEM work: untinned wire.

 

[Rayvon]

I think a lot of people underestimate how much electrical work is involved when podding a boat.If you can't do it yourself it would be very expensive.

 

[MRWood]

Amazes me that so many boat builders do such sloppy wiring. Boats are nasty places for electrical installations, the vibration and pounding can be comparable to what logging trucks live with. Yet we see few holddowns, little or no heat shrink tubing, poorly plated automotive grade connectors. There are several members here whose work is well superior to most OEM.

If it was my project, I'd yank it all. Start fresh so I knew every single connector was properly cramped, soldered and sealed with shrink tube. Full layout on paper mapping out where devices and hold downs will go, then execute.

Thank you for the advice and I will look into doing that. Either myself or hire someone.
The wiring may look worse than it is in that pic as I had taken out most of the tie downs and zap straps. The wiring is 32 years old and has given mostly trouble free service. Most will come out and be rewired by the outboard shop.