Commander 26 Re Build

[Sttr]

If your 100 percent sure that transom is flat side to side and up and down, there should be no issues having a pod built.

Have you considered having the transom 3d scanned to capture all the angles and exact measurements?

Transom is perfectly flat , can’t even slip in a .010 feeler gauge.

 

[ship happens]

Transom is perfectly flat , can’t even slip in a .010 feeler gauge.

You know what would be really easy then? Start with a piece of 1/4 plate, then build the pod off of that.

Also if I can make a suggestion to you, give the pod a little of a rake.

 

[Rain City]

You know what would be really easy then? Start with a piece of 1/4 plate, then build the pod off of that.

Also if I can make a suggestion to you, give the pod a little of a rake.

Doesn't that depend on if you're going full extension (not necessarily full width) or stepped? My limited understanding was that when you want the added hull you follow the hull. When you don't you step it up a few inches as well as raking it up.

As a side, I've discussed the pod design with the guy at Conrad Yachts. He was recommended by another member. He only designs boats. He was going to charge me $2k to fully engineer and design the pod specific to my boat and rigging. Full cut sheets included. Seems like money well spent if I do end up going that route.

 

[noluck]

i start with 3/8" solid aluminum against the hull and engine plate, 1/4" between them

 

[Rain City]

i start with 3/8" solid aluminum against the hull and engine plate, 1/4" between them

Showoff.

 

[kingblazer84]

Showoff.

I could say the same for you and @Reeltime with all those food pics ahah

 

[Sttr]

Finally special delivery. I been waiting to drill a whole in the bottem of a boat for a long time

 

[Sttr]

If I learned anything from this is that I probably should wait for Ron before I cut my boat

 

[Captain PartyMarty]

Cool Build! Can't wait to see it done!

I agree with everything said about powder coating the Pod, My PDR pod got a small rock chip it about 1.5 years ago. I see the paint starting to bubble in that area even though I tried to cover with some paint. Powder coat will fail at some point. I would also be careful with epoxy on the deck, I have awlgrip on the back deck and it is so easy to scratch it really sucks. I pretty much cover it up with rubber maps all the time to keep it protected. Its just not holding up to the wear and tear very well. One of these days I am going to rip the whole deck up and build a full fiberglass floor in the boat. But I need to watch and learn from you guy's first before I tackle that one

 

[ship happens]

Doesn't that depend on if you're going full extension (not necessarily full width) or stepped? My limited understanding was that when you want the added hull you follow the hull. When you don't you step it up a few inches as well as raking it up.

As a side, I've discussed the pod design with the guy at Conrad Yachts. He was recommended by another member. He only designs boats. He was going to charge me $2k to fully engineer and design the pod specific to my boat and rigging. Full cut sheets included. Seems like money well spent if I do end up going that route.

That's a great question. One that has been asked alot. One that there isn't exactly a right answer to. Really just depends on what you want it to ride like. Depends on how much floatation you want to add to the stern. I personally have had the best results either doing full width hull extension. Actually adding full hull width, and moving the trim tabs to the pod, or a bit of a rake and floation portion as wide as you can without changing how the hull rides on the chines. When you do a full hull extension but only a portion, it can change the way the hull performs. Sometimes in a good way, sometimes not. Usually I makes for less efficiency I'm most cases that I've seen. This is only my experience talking as I've done several different pod refit over the years. I learn somthing new each one I have been a part of. On that note the route I go is, I'm going to make that 26 ride like a 30, or I'm going to make that 26 ride like it always did, but more efficient.

 

[ship happens]

i start with 3/8" solid aluminum against the hull and engine plate, 1/4" between them

Everyone see how he did the fab on this? The sides are inset a half inch or so. This allows for easier, cleaner, tighter, more penatrated welds. Looks nicer too. That's a great fab job

 

[Rain City]

That's a great question. One that has been asked alot. One that there isn't exactly a right answer to. Really just depends on what you want it to ride like. Depends on how much floatation you want to add to the stern. I personally have had the best results either doing full width hull extension. Actually adding full hull width, and moving the trim tabs to the pod, or a bit of a rake and floation portion as wide as you can without changing how the hull rides on the chines. When you do a full hull extension but only a portion, it can change the way the hull performs. Sometimes in a good way, sometimes not. Usually I makes for less efficiency I'm most cases that I've seen. This is only my experience talking as I've done several different pod refit over the years. I learn somthing new each one I have been a part of. On that note the route I go is, I'm going to make that 26 ride like a 30, or I'm going to make that 26 ride like it always did, but more efficient.

From what I read, my assumption was that I didn't want to make my 30 a 34. I don't want added drag and don't need the improved stability. She's a tank as she sits. I literally just want something to hang engines off that will give just enough flotation (at rest) to make up for the engine weight shifting that far back. From what I've read, the perfect pod for this scenario should be out of the water when on step. But who knows.

 

[SpringVelocity]

Finally special delivery. I been waiting to drill a whole in the bottem of a boat for a long time View attachment 76554View attachment 76555

Just got same one for my project. Getting mounted inside engine well, and no more POS transom mount thing.

 

[ship happens]

From what I read, my assumption was that I didn't want to make my 30 a 34. I don't want added drag and don't need the improved stability. She's a tank as she sits. I literally just want something to hang engines off that will give just enough flotation (at rest) to make up for the engine weight shifting that far back. From what I've read, the perfect pod for this scenario should be out of the water when on step. But who knows.

Here is a really quick drawing of how I do it. Simple and will never change the way the hull makes the carving. You don't want the rake too much. Just right. That depends on how much bow lift the hull has when on plane. Every boat is different. You want that pod to sit on the carving. You don't want to add displacement. If you do you absolutely change how the hull rides. Use more power that way. On smaller boats if fine. Big boats, you want efficiency and at a 26ft hull that's already a beast. Hope this makes sense. I gotta get some work done now lol. My 2 cents



Also keep in mind guys when done this way, you have to move the engi e up 1.5 inches per 12 inches setback. Sometimes more depending on bow or stern lift

 

[Rain City]

Here is a really quick drawing of how I do it. Simple and will never change the way the hull makes the carving. You don't want the rake too much. Just right. That depends on how much bow lift the hull has when on plane. Every boat is different. You want that pod to sit on the carving. You don't want to add displacement. If you do you absolutely change how the hull rides. Use more power that way. On smaller boats if fine. Big boats, you want efficiency and at a 26ft hull that's already a beast. Hope this makes sense. I gotta get some work done now lol. My 2 cents



Also keep in mind guys when done this way, you have to move the engi e up 1.5 inches per 12 inches setback. Sometimes more depending on bow or stern lift

The cabin on that boat is way too small

 

[ship happens]

The cabin on that boat is way too small

More room for fishing gear lol

 

[Buckethead905]

So all you have to do there is Interprotect first ( you'll have to sand a bit ) 2 coats, and then bottom paint with 2 coats of TriluxII

Be pretty sweet to Kiwigrip the top of that pod

Interprotect is a 6 coat process or a final thickness of 10 mil.

 

[Sttr]

Great info guys, sounds like lots of experience guys out here. My 2 cents is mainly all from this forum . This is what I figure . Every pod is built different according to the boat. Let stick to the commander 26. A full hull extension is most likely not the best way to proceed as mentioned it will turn handling the boat into a 30 footer. A non floating pod- excuse my vocabulary is is not good either as the pod length must be 44” for the motors to go up all the way, sounds like a long pod to me and with twins I would like to see some more support (floatation) because of the weight and length. A floating pod would be able to support some of that weight imo. I did think there was going to be some rake on the pod but if my guy did no rake then no rake, I seen lots of straight pods. Still my 2 cents.
I re moved 780 pounds x2 ripping mercs out. I’m installing 570 lbs x 2 with the yammies plus the pod which I wanted to weigh right now but it’s gone already, 200 lbs plus for sure. So we haven’t screwed with the weight too much even though it’s distributed further back. We hopefully didn’t affect the hull performance excessively where she turns like a 30 cruising speeds. This pod design is not a new design, it has been proven, I wish I can test out different pods on my commander , if someone is willing to Sponsor me I will quit my job in a heartbeat.
Also a 10 foot beam rides different than a 11.
A 12000 lbs 30 footer rides different than a 8000 lbs 30 footer.
Over all I’m happy with my design but have been also thinking about the rake. I did think there would be some.

 

[Brando]

If your using it for the traditional blister repair yes but doesn’t need to be if your using as a primer for AL. Coating aluminum presents a lot of issues it’s constantly oxidizing if you don’t conversion coat it. Anodizing or conversion coating before powder coating is the best way but adds time and cost. It provides a very good surface for bonding and will continue to protect the material once the inevitable chips happen in the future.

I wouldn’t mount that pod on my boat with plate scabbed together like that it’s likely ok but I wouldn’t be happy either. Should be one solid piece and have stringers inside for strength with 2 big motors going on it full height or at least as high as the lower motor bolt holes. Deck gets welded down last after the inside is done. Open corner joints are the hardest for fitting but give the greatest strength especially when they are welded inside as well full pen by design. A good welder can do a very nice job if they are prepped properly with this fit up. Everyone has their own ways but that’s how I prefer to do it.

hopefully you guys can find a solution. The rest of your build looks great very happy to see the deck dropped always thought it would the way to go. Keep it up

 

[Rayvon]

I was told not to anodize before powder coating by the people doing the powder coating.Lots to learn about the best way to do it still.Epoxy primer and finish coats seem to stand up better than powder coating if done right.