What Did You Do To Your Boat This Week?
- Thread starter Stizzla
- Start date
seachicken
Well-Known Member
What did you put in for deck lights? I have to clean up under my gunwales so now would be the time to add them.
Maxpri
Well-Known Member
Nice upgrades. Is that an I/O boat? Or is that just storage at the back?
NOOTKA BOUND
Active Member
Thanks! Its a outboard northwest aluminum. Same boat as my profile picture. It's a big cooler I turned into a seat for my rear steering station
Attachments
NOOTKA BOUND
Active Member
I bought one of these kits, cut it in half and ran it to a toggle switch. I went through another cheap kit that didn't last. These I seen a few guys on this form running and so far so good.
Maxpri
Well-Known Member
Oh sweet! That’s a great setup!
SpringVelocity
Crew Member
Installed washdown and removable aluminum cleaning trough.
salmonkiller01
Well-Known Member
No pics but prior to going up island to fish in Nootka, I re-re my trailer brake system
Kodiak disk brakes electric over Hydraulic, all new actuator, lines and wiring.
Also installed speedy sleeves for seals and went oil bath hubs.
Was somewhat concerned on how well it would seal but never lost a drop on the trip. Hubs were cool the whole trip with multiple checks.
Should be low maintenance for a while.
The great thing is the see thru caps, if I am losing oil or getting water intrusion oil, I will see the oil change colours and now right away.
Kodiak disk brakes electric over Hydraulic, all new actuator, lines and wiring.
Also installed speedy sleeves for seals and went oil bath hubs.
Was somewhat concerned on how well it would seal but never lost a drop on the trip. Hubs were cool the whole trip with multiple checks.
Should be low maintenance for a while.
The great thing is the see thru caps, if I am losing oil or getting water intrusion oil, I will see the oil change colours and now right away.
Last edited:
Max123
Well-Known Member
Re-did the bearings on the trailer for our old ski boat. The trailer travels maybe 1000 yards every year, and is thoroughly neglected. All that neglect caught up with us in July when I went to fill the boat at a nearby gas station before putting it in the water for the season. Made it about 30 seconds down the road, when a quick look in the rearview showed that both tires were wobbling all over the place. Limped it back home at 5km/hr. Subsequent inspection indicated that one bearing had eaten itself, and the other was on the way out.
Anyway, we got the boat in the water, but the trailer has been on blocks in the garage ever since. Got new bearings/races/seals, plus a nice race punch/set tool, and got everything in. Success - trailer rolls - real test will be at the end of the summer when I pull the boat back out.
Anyway, we got the boat in the water, but the trailer has been on blocks in the garage ever since. Got new bearings/races/seals, plus a nice race punch/set tool, and got everything in. Success - trailer rolls - real test will be at the end of the summer when I pull the boat back out.
Last edited:
kaelc
Well-Known Member
Nice, which punch tool set did you get? A lot of respect to the guys doing their own trailers it isn't easy work. Having tools is 1/2 the battle.
kingblazer84
Well-Known Member
Max123
Well-Known Member
Princess auto to the rescue.
Old races were punched out with an old flathead screw driver. New races driven in with this. I don't know how you would do it otherwise - you can't just tap them in with a hammer and block of wood, because the races are countersunk about 1/2" into the hub. Very slim chance that you could get the new races all the way in (and square) with whatever random tools you happen to have without mangling them. Glad i bought this in advance.
Even though we had totally F'd the bearings - the old races actually looked fine in retrospect. If you have to do this job on the side of the road, I wouldn't touch the races.
Newf
Crew Member
Always easier when you have the right tools for sure. I don’t so in the past I’ve used a piece of brass shafting to tap the new races back in. You can also use the old race against the new one to tap it in. Zip cut the old one or grind the outside a bit so it doesn’t bind up in the bore when seating the new one.
Brando
Well-Known Member
Have used old Bearing and big sockets in the past. Hard to replace a tool built for the task but it works.
Max123
Well-Known Member
I like it - using the old bearing to drive in new rackes is a solid hack - nice thinking.
Max123
Well-Known Member
Nice - I've been contemplating shifting my axle for a while. My boat has a pod, so the weight of the motor is hanging out pretty far over the axle.
I noticed that Princess Auto has a tongue weight scale for pretty cheap, and was contemplating grabbing one and then heading to the Nordel weight scale to get the true axle weight. The current setup 'may' be right - but really impossible to know without doing the work. Was driving back on Highway 3 and saw a flipped travel trailer - looked like classic 'trailer wag' from incorrect weight balance.
Last edited:
Similar threads
