Seasport skipper 19 podding project

Agreed. One full auto, powered direct from battery. Second one through a dashboard manual/auto switch. Pumps are cheap compared to, well, you know.
That’s exactly what I run even with self bailing.

I also keep on board a 2000 gph pump on a 30ft cable with big alligator clips to do a quick hookup to a battery and a 20 ft hose for emergencies on my boat and others. That thing has bailed out many dock mates in Tofino when the torrential rains threatened to sink boats.
 
That’s exactly what I run even with self bailing.

I also keep on board a 2000 gph pump on a 30ft cable with big alligator clips to do a quick hookup to a battery and a 20 ft hose for emergencies on my boat and others. That thing has bailed out many dock mates in Tofino when the torrential rains threatened to sink boats.
If it’s good for Aces then it’s good for me 😊
 
Agreed. One full auto, powered direct from battery. Second one through a dashboard manual/auto switch. Pumps are cheap compared to, well, you know.
I have 2 in each deck chamber then 2 in bilge area one low on a float , beside it a alarm for low water and one high on a float with alarm if it EVER gets to that nothing is saving her... IMO can never have enough bilges
 
That’s exactly what I run even with self bailing.

I also keep on board a 2000 gph pump on a 30ft cable with big alligator clips to do a quick hookup to a battery and a 20 ft hose for emergencies on my boat and others. That thing has bailed out many dock mates in Tofino when the torrential rains threatened to sink boats.
I always figured people with downriggers would have a pump setup that plugs right into the Scotty’s connector. Is that a thing?
 
Anything in electric motorland go bigger on the fuses and or breakers. It's only there to protect the wire. The scotty stuff also has internal auto resetable automotive style breakers in them. If you use them beyond their capacity it trips the internal breaker. Few seconds later when it cools back down. Good to go again.
 
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Anything in electric motorland go bigger on the fuses and or breakers. It's only there to protect the wire. The scotty stuff also has internal auto rest table automotive style breakers in them. If you use them beyond their capacity it trips the internal breaker. Few seconds later when it cools back down. Good to go again.
Looks like an idea for another helpful product!
 
I always figured people with downriggers would have a pump setup that plugs right into the Scotty’s connector. Is that a thing?
I've thought about doing this with my spare portable safety pump but then thought what if I needed to pass it off in an emergency to another boat, will they have current or old style scotty plugs?
I left mine with 20ft wire and heavy alligator style clamps so anyone can use it.
 
Here are a few more progress pics. It gets hard to choose what it is that you want and need to weigh cost and practicality.
Filling in the blower holes. Fuel fill and vents will be starboard side rear. Rear compartment hatch where motor used to be will have channels leading to scuppers.
 

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Just sharing a thought on wiring those Scotty riggers. As others have suggested, there has been cases where plugged in Scotty riggers will short circuit causing fires. I know of 3 vessels that caught fire, one was a total loss.

So, yes you can unplug the rigger - but practically nobody remembers to do that and besides its a pain to plug back in every day. A quick fix is to install a resettable fuse that you simply trip at the end of each day. That locks out power to the rigger preventing a fire when you are not on board to deal with it. I think a resettable fuse these days runs for under $90

https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-Sea-Syst...845195d360983a5c673608463dc&gad_source=1&th=1
 
A question - have you considered contacting Sea Sport to see what they recommend for structural upgrades on conversions from in-board to a pod or hull extension? The reason I mention is generally the hulls manufactured for in-board do not have additional structural components to provide sufficient strength to support the forces put on the transom by an outboard and/or hull extension. It may be a simple as creating a transom support bracket tied into the stringers to provide additional structural integrity. Sorry to cast a wrinkle in an incredible project upgrade.
 
A question - have you considered contacting Sea Sport to see what they recommend for structural upgrades on conversions from in-board to a pod or hull extension? The reason I mention is generally the hulls manufactured for in-board do not have additional structural components to provide sufficient strength to support the forces put on the transom by an outboard and/or hull extension. It may be a simple as creating a transom support bracket tied into the stringers to provide additional structural integrity. Sorry to cast a wrinkle in an incredible project upgrade.
I haven’t contacted Seasport to ask that question. I did speak to the fiberglass shop about potential structural issues and they assured me that the boat will be fine especially after the transom and stringer replacement. I have also followed a number of the Seaport pod projects and structural integrity has not been an issue. It is a good suggestion to check with Seasport or perhaps PDR who does brackets for Seasport. As I write this I was just reminded that I did have a discussion with one of the principles of PDR on the Seasport owners group about deck configurations. He did not mention anything about structural upgrades but it might be a good idea to pose this exact question to him.
 
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Looking at new Seasports they don’t do anything special. I would make sure the stringers are well attached to the transoms. On mine I extended the stringers up along the transom and reinforced the deck connection to the transom.
Great suggestion. Only reason I brought it up was some of my buddies who converted their Tiara's had to add in additional transom supports from the stringers to the transom. My Grady 265 has them built in as well. Easier to do something at the current stage of construction as opposed to later on. The project looks really good so far.
 
Here are some updated pics. Port side hatch is for fish. starboard is extra storage and engine compartment more storage.
I don’t like the deck hatches they have and would like to change. These ones the lid fits on top of the outside frame. I’d like something where the lid sits flush inside frame. DPI flush mount looks more like what I’d like. Do you know outfit in the area that stocks these or something like them. I’m in Nanoose
 

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Here are some updated pics. Port side hatch is for fish. starboard is extra storage and engine compartment more storage.
I don’t like the deck hatches they have and would like to change. These ones the lid fits on top of the outside frame. I’d like something where the lid sits flush inside frame. DPI flush mount looks more like what I’d like. Do you know outfit in the area that stocks these or something like them. I’m in Nanoose
Yeah those are super lame. Good call on shitting all over that idea lol
 
Great suggestion. Only reason I brought it up was some of my buddies who converted their Tiara's had to add in additional transom supports from the stringers to the transom. My Grady 265 has them built in as well. Easier to do something at the current stage of construction as opposed to later on. The project looks really good so far.
Tiaras are super thin on the transom. Non structural. Most shaft boats are built like that.
 
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