Commander 26 Re Build

So back to some work,
200,400,600,800, 1000 wet , 1200 wet,
Stopped at that
Cut once and polished.
Working the area around the rub rail and transom.
Looks great, started to get a bit worried it’s going to turn into a mirror but that’s not the case, the white does a great job reflecting only on certain angles. Here’s some picsFF09E371-02B1-487D-9F13-CE5C0FFE2CA6.jpeg5B03C2E9-A3F6-446B-953A-262D76006ADB.jpeg7168F873-2A9C-4D4D-959D-9809EB13F2D1.jpeg0C67FAF4-FB2C-465B-A7B8-5FC478F8D98B.jpeg1D692ED6-B843-4A8F-B3FF-14EDE778F27B.jpegEA9D4CAC-2D72-493D-863B-185588E9D15D.jpeg
 
The department of fisheries assured me I will get no sockeye slime this year unless I go gill netting. Anybody needs a hand on deck I’m in…
@ship happens


As of right now unless something changes its not looking good. Heard rumor that headed this way from South of Rupert was a large number of fish. Test sets not good past week and a bit. The early fish are zipping right in with again high water levels. Freshet was late start this year. Definitely a different year. We can only hope we all get a fishery
 
I will give you some possibly unwanted or needed suggestions about installing your sheer trim.I installed lots of it.Your applying white poly extrusion on a white hull and deck with stainless insert.It will be hard to see if your installing it evenly (no humps or bumps) until you add the contrasting stainless.I would try to add a bright color masking tape just above where you want the poly to be so that you can eye ball how wavy it is.Adjust the tape till your happy with how it looks.You don't want the trim pushed up hard on the deck lip unless your sure it is perfectly true because it eliminates any chance of adjustment.My first thing to do would be caulk the gap in the deck/hull connection with fast cure Sikaflex 291 so that it's not soft and messy when you do the trim.Try not to have any of the holes in the stainless land on the transom round corners,it might kink when bending around.And you'll be using stainless screws for fasteners (their very soft) so be sure you have the perfect size pilot hole for them.We used to put wax on the screws before setting them to prevent breaking them too.It can be a tricky job to get it just right ,so take your time and it will look great when done.
 
I will give you some possibly unwanted or needed suggestions about installing your sheer trim.I installed lots of it.Your applying white poly extrusion on a white hull and deck with stainless insert.It will be hard to see if your installing it evenly (no humps or bumps) until you add the contrasting stainless.I would try to add a bright color masking tape just above where you want the poly to be so that you can eye ball how wavy it is.Adjust the tape till your happy with how it looks.You don't want the trim pushed up hard on the deck lip unless your sure it is perfectly true because it eliminates any chance of adjustment.My first thing to do would be caulk the gap in the deck/hull connection with fast cure Sikaflex 291 so that it's not soft and messy when you do the trim.Try not to have any of the holes in the stainless land on the transom round corners,it might kink when bending around.And you'll be using stainless screws for fasteners (their very soft) so be sure you have the perfect size pilot hole for them.We used to put wax on the screws before setting them to prevent breaking them too.It can be a tricky job to get it just right ,so take your time and it will look great when done.
No such thing as unwanted advice or suggestions!
 
Rub rails are the absolute cuntiest most tedious thing. If you want it perfect anyway.
It sure is starting to seem like that LoL
I’m curious to see how this bends, I’m a bit worried it’s going to kink the stainless. I have a few end caps and joints that came with it. Not sure how I feel about them. I’m looking into other end caps or even corner caps.
Was hoping to have a spare piece of rail I can experiment with but that’s not the case, I need them all.
The first bend will tell all.88659144-951E-4B21-AF4F-0E3DD2034102.jpeg
 
The poly should be easy as long as it's warm,but it must look fair,true,aligned. The stainless insert will follow the shape of the poly no problem except at the hard turns at the transom corners.Sometimes we would screw a 4-6 Ft. 2x4 to the stainless from the inside,make the bend and then remove the 2x4 to fasten it,if you get what I'm saying.The 2x4 straddles the corner and prevents kinks from happening as you bend it around.The screw holes in the stainless will most likely be 6" apart,so you need to position that stern piece so that screws are not in the middle of the corner bend if possible.The stainless usually come in 12 Ft. lengths ,so you need to figure out where you want the joints to be to get the most out of the material ,and not have short pieces filling in.You may want to mark center of your transom and join there if it works out for the transom corners.Just a matter of pre planning with a tape measure or the actual stainless pieces and a sharpie.
 
Well hot damn…. So many people touchy touchy, rubbing the commander, all I hear is wow.
Ron has magic hands, and they are tickling balls now, including mine. I can’t leave it a bit polished now so go hard Ron, till you can’t move your arms, let’s get this boat polished up.
It looks so good I want the bottom of the hull done the same… 85461CF2-1C3A-4869-A580-3E089418B0BF.jpeg
 
Using guide coat and sanding blocks in all directions will make it, "The Fairest in the Land". Sorry,I'm on pain killers. :)
Patience is the key I been told, I’m just trying not to cheat and dig in with the corner of the block, Ron will know right away after running his hand across the hull.

There are a few low spots that might need to be addressed, just not sure how perfect I want it…. Oh boy LoL
 
Sailboat racers longboard their hulls for perfection.
Get a roll of adhesive backed sandpaper and then cut a 3' long board out of 1/4" ply, attach a couple of pieces of 2x4 for handles on the back.

This is the exterior that you see everytime you approach the boat, I would be repeatedly kicking myself in the nuts if my stringers looked better than my gelcoat. And your stringers look awesome.
 
Sailboat racers longboard their hulls for perfection.
Get a roll of adhesive backed sandpaper and then cut a 3' long board out of 1/4" ply, attach a couple of pieces of 2x4 for handles on the back.

This is the exterior that you see everytime you approach the boat, I would be repeatedly kicking myself in the nuts if my stringers looked better than my gelcoat. And your stringers look awesome.
In my boat racing days, some would put their boat upside down in a darkened room, take a straight edge and a light to look for any imperfections.
 
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