23' & 26' Hourston Project Commenced...

[EZZ70]

I am thinking about filling these areas, in red, with foam to reduce noise while under way and float like a turtle when water comes in over the notched transom, LOL The black areas may be additional storage sectioned off with bulkhead. bottom pic

A buddy of mine is redoing his commander and putting some foam back in it, the old stuff was bone dry top pic...

Any thoughts?
Would it a safety feature or not really?
Is it a common practice or not so much anymore?

 

[EZZ70]

Which picture do you like best...hahaha

 

[ab1752]

Hey when you're knocking off that fiberglass pod can you bang a second out for me? K thanks, cheques in the mail lol

 

[EZZ70]

Hey when you're knocking off that fiberglass pod can you bang a second out for me? K thanks, cheques in the mail lol

Absolutely! If I build a mold it is certainly doable!

 

[ab1752]

Absolutely! If I create a mold it is certainly doable!

Ininininininininin...did I mention I'm in? It will be interesting to see if there are any differences in the transom design.

Btw on that older 26 hourston command bridge you mentioned it seem low in the water in the bow. Are you guessing a bulkhead was damaged? For instance on mine, they built a bulkhead in full glass around the trailer eye. As in sealed so even if the nuts backed off you gotta cut through the glass to get to it.

 

[EZZ70]

Ininininininininin...did I mention I'm in? It will be interesting to see if there are any differences in the transom design.

Btw on that older 26 hourston command bridge you mentioned it seem low in the water in the bow. Are you guessing a bulkhead was damaged? For instance on mine, they built a bulkhead in full glass around the trailer eye. As in sealed so even if the nuts backed off you gotta cut through the glass to get to it.

@ab1752 @casper5280 @23Hourston Here are some never seen pictures of the 23'... this is what I suspect that 26' and many others, unbeknownst to the owners, is like. Notice the scabbing and raw/exposed wood, also the ends of the stringers which were totally rotten I think I took out like 10gals of nasty foul smelling stuff...

That is why I put a layer of CM on the underside of my floor, its totally sealed! DONE & DONE

I am considering filling this space with foam on mine as it is the area underfoot and I want the noise dampened, in addition the foam will add rigidity to the structure .

 

[ab1752]

Interesting, all those areas on mine are exposed so fluid would run along the V and then from the outer builhead near the cuddy to the transom, all drain into the main bilge. otherwise it's all fully glassed in. Unless there's damage to a bulkhead or such I can't see water trapping like it did on the 23'r. Come through town and have a look at our boat any time. I'd have a stroke if I discovered mine was in that sort of shape, maybe they learned a thing or two along the way haha...I'm going to be out all weekend and I can take pics of the areas I can access easily. I'm also a freak with a portable shop vac and slurp up and water I find in the bilge.

Having said this I looked at an Island Runner last summer (2 really) that were built after 2007 and both had nasty rot. One guy paid around $120,000 and the other guy wanted $85,000, the $120,000 one sold in an instant. In both cases, the rot was 100% avoidable. I'm constantly servicing anything that is screwed into the boat and I should probably buy shares in the parent company who produces Sikkaflex. Someone is gonna get a nice boat when something shiny catches my eye!

 

[EZZ70]

I understand where you are coming from and like the way you think, things like this keep me awake it’s 1am and got foam on the brain lol

Right now I have an opportunity to place some foam into the forward and side sections, below the step down floor. I have been researching the pros and cons, from what I can tell it may be well worth the efforts for primarily safety. It will help with noise dampening.

As per factory build if something happened to swamp or capsize the vessel it would go down as the boats have no floating what so ever, other than the fuel tank , if I am not mistaken on this...?

I know an incident might be stretching and a long shot but I would rather have a safe guard in place, just in case.

I know the con would be the ability of the foam to absorb water in the long term , so 20 years from now I’ll be 70 and will need to inspect the cavity for moisture, hahaha I am hoping, if I proceed to fill with foam, that I can get close to 100% of this space full as to prevent any possible condensation. Once filled the cavity will be 100% sealed!

 

[ChilliSpoons]

Some people have issues with the pour in foam filling the cavities which blocks the ability of water to work it’s way back to the sump. There has to be a way to create channels under the foam that would allow a certain amount of water to pass underneath. Not sure how this could be accomplished. Maybe grease up a rope that could be pulled out from the sump once the foam sets up.

 

[Doubleheader]

Small pvc ripped in half and glassed to the floor makes good drainage

I normally wouldn’t recommend pouring foam into the floor for average backyard fiberglass hobbyists. But with your attention to detail and quality of work I’m confident you’d get er done and sealed properly Rob.

Gel looks great nice work!

The Brightside is not near as tough as gel but it looks good and cleans up really easy.

 

[wolf]

No dont foam it in not necessary. mine is all open and have hidden hatches for ropes etc in it and the boat will sit fine spend that money on a new alum pod LOL LOL
wished you were coming to island and then you could get some ideas on how my boat is built like a tank...it is a totally different build then the sedan models my stringers are what they call duo core and the hull is double lined

 

[Doubleheader]

No dont foam it in not necessary. mine is all open and have hidden hatches for ropes etc in it and the boat will sit fine spend that money on a new alum pod LOL LOL
wished you were coming to island and then you could get some ideas on how my boat is built like a tank...it is a totally different build then the sedan models my stringers are what they call duo core and the hull is double lined

If the floor is not completely glassed in with hatches everywhere I would think less structural rigidity no? I could see if there were a bunch of mini bulkheads going east/west and some tabbing around outsides of hatches to stringers would stiffen we up.

 

[Doubleheader]

This kinda idea. I think they should all be built like this lol. I’m gonna find a project boat and do it, I can’t see this not being the best route to go...

 

[EZZ70]

View attachment 54092 This kinda idea. I think they should all be built like this lol. I’m gonna find a project boat and do it...

I like it great idea, opens the centres up for lots of storage and bigger fuel tank. Lots of glassing....

 

[Doubleheader]

I like it great idea, opens the centres up for lots of storage and bigger fuel tank. Lots of glassing....

Ya it’s a pile of work but if you want to jump waves that’s the way to go I think, that and a 25 degree dead rise. But just throwing the odd east/west support in should help with torsional strength if you went the hatch route, no? Encapsulated foam is no doubt rigid but doesn’t help with storage, although I can’t imagine having that much square footage to start with so wouldn’t be a concern for myself lol

 

[EZZ70]

Thanks guys, so I think I can safely say foam was never introduced to these boats throughout the years and seemed to do just fine, but now "considering that even the 2lb flotation foam will carry 40psi, that equates to quite a lot per square foot. 40psi x 144 si is greater than 5000 lbs per square foot. So, yeah. It is only intended for flotation. But, when it is added to a structure, if it is taking up a compression load, it can add a LOT of strength."

Again my buddy has a commander, which is an undisputed very well known quality boat, they use foam in their builds and it works so why not, for safety, support and noise dampening?

Quote:
Uses for 2 lb. Density Flotation Foam

• Lightweight foam is perfect for filling non-structural voids
• Pour beneath decks and inside cavities to provide buoyancy

2 lb. Density Flotation Foam Specifications

• Components: 2 (Resin and Activator)
• Volume: The 2-quart kit expands to approximately 2 cubic ft.; the 2-gallon kit expands to approximately 8 cubic ft.
• Compressive strength: 38 psi
• Mix ratio by volume: 1 to 1
• Mix ratio by weight: 100:109
• Cream time: 45 seconds
• Gel time: 235 seconds
• Tack-free time: 380 seconds
• Rise time: 400 seconds
• Application temperature: 60-85°F or above (75-80°F is optimal for yield and cure/working times)
• Flotation range (admixed): 75 lbs/qt and 300 lbs/gal
• For nonstructural applications only
• Note: Accurate measuring of resin and activator is extremely critical. All expansion rates and times listed are dependent on temperature. Temperatures below 75°F will lower the expansion rate, which will require more flotation foam.

Uses for 6 lb. Density Flotation Foam

• Higher compressive strength is great for filling cavities to support heavy loads
• Flotation for buoys
• Creating sculptures and other works of art

6 lb. Density Flotation Foam Specifications

• Components: 2 (Resin and Activator)
• Volume: The 2-quart kit expands to approximately 3/4 cubic ft.; the 2-gallon kit expands to approximately 3 cubic ft.
• Compressive strength: 400 psi
• Flexural strength: 500 psi
• Mix ratio by volume: 1 to 1
• Mix ratio by weight: 100:100
• Cream time: 65 seconds
• Gel time: 150 seconds
• Tack-free time: 215 seconds
• Rise time: 240 seconds
• Application temperature: 60-85°F or above (75-80°F is optimal for yield and cure/working times)
• Flotation range (admixed): 23 lbs/qt and 92 lbs/gal
• Note: Accurate measuring of resin and activator is extremely critical. All expansion rates and times listed are dependent on temperature. Temperatures below 75°F will lower the expansion rate, which will require more flotation foam.

 

[wolf]

If the floor is not completely glassed in with hatches everywhere I would think less structural rigidity no?

No not at all remember the stringers are the back bones and are HEAVY built foam is ok in some applications but its a fine balance too much thing will be like a cork and roll especially with a command bridge up top these boats were designed a certain way and if they were intended to have foam trust me Bill would have done it. no need to over think things its a 30 +
year old boat, think of a mouse trap same design a 100 years ago still works no need to improve something that works.... personally I think foam is great in a tinny for sound proofing but not needed in a fiberglass boat id rather have open hatches that if I want to run wires and hoses and get water out down the road its easy access. And god forbid if you hit something and or put a hole in it repairing will be a lot easier..

 

[Doubleheader]

No not at all remember the stringers are the back bones and are HEAVY built foam is ok in some applications but its a fine balance too much thing will be like a cork and roll especially with a command bridge up top these boats were designed a certain way and if they were intended to have foam trust me Bill would have done it. no need to over think things its a 30 +
year old boat, think of a mouse trap same design a 100 years ago still works no need to improve something that works.... personally I think foam is great in a tinny for sound proofing but not needed in a fiberglass boat id rather have open hatches that if I want to run wires and hoses and get water out down the road its easy access. And god forbid if you hit something and or put a hole in it repairing will be a lot easier..

Maybe I’m wrong but adding flotation does not change the way a boat sits in the water, if it’s right side up that is? I would also think patching a damaged bottom would be easier if there’s some foam backing, ever tried span glass over and unsupported area? Bill had a decent design for sure, but they are far from perfect IMO

 

[EZZ70]

Maybe I’m wrong but adding flotation does not change the way a boat sits in the water, if it’s right side up that is? I would also think patching a damaged bottom would be easier if there’s some foam backing, ever tried span glass over and unsupported area? Bill had a decent design for sure, but they are far from perfect IMO

You are correct! It will not change the way it will sit in the water the foam will only act as buoyancy if swamped by a poorly designed notched transom or overturned by a top heavy command bridge, LOL so looks like I NEED FOAM! muhahhahahaha

Ok that's my fun for the morning...

 

[Doubleheader]

You are correct! I will not change the way it will sit in the water

Or change the way it pitches and rolls lol. Once she upside-down however...