26' Osprey I/O Conversion Project

mitch184

Member
Was asked to start to build thread for my project. Might be painful due to my OCD and overthinking, but someone people might benefit from it, enjoy my misery or have suggestions for me. 2003 26' Osprey Canyon Runner (short cab). Bought it with a bad trailer and a 5.7GXI volvo penta with a duoprop. Project started out fixing the trailer and replacing a leaking steering arm and the starter on the 5.7 and running it for a season. Got into it, starter bolts were seized, risers were shot, steering arm was broken and trim switch was bad. Motor had to come out to fix things and made the decision to just go for a conversion after remembering how terrible and problematic inboards were in those boats. Out comes the motor, outdrive, steering, water heater, heater, etc. Started digging more into it... next came out all the old wiring and electronics. Dug a little deeper.... off comes the rub rail, bow rail, and any other possible source of a top side leak. Last dig... now the carpet is removed from the inside along with the seats.

Current Status:
Boat is sitting on a King Trailer I completely rebuilt frame up. 3 new torsion axles with disc brakes and E/H actuator. New bunks, brackets, hardware, bow roller, etc. Boat is basically gutted. Have been drilling holes in stringers and bulkhead and draining water for the last 6 months from around the fuel tank. I would guess i've pulled 100+ gallons of water from under the floors. Good thing it has a poly tank. Boat is undercover and bow high so it's drying out and almost all of the foam (minimal amount) is dry. The Hull/deck joint was reinforced and sealed up with Plexus adhesive. So now it's glassed on the inside, bonded and fastened with screws. New Taco marine rub rail is sitting in the garage waiting on glass work and warmer weather. Gutted the old fridge, as I would rather have the space for storage.

The plan: (I'm open to all advice)
Full bottom extension aluminum bracket with a single Suzuki DF350 duo prop and Yamaha or Merc 25 kicker hanging off it. iTroll or trollmast for the kicker. Seastar helms (FWD and rear) and Power assist steering. B175HW 0° thru hull transducer mounted in the old engine compartment on the keel flat. Electronics likely Lowrance system along with Furuno FCV588/P66 standalone. 3 (maybe 4) batteries mounted back in the old engine compartment down low for weight. Glass in the old dogbox and back transom. Floor gets a fiberglass hatch and flange with drain, transom gets plastic hatch. New larger deck scuppers. Fixing a LOT of previous holes drilled, spider cracking, gel coat chips/cracks and resealing bow rails, rub rails, roof rails, hatches. Clean up the gunnels with simple Burnewiin 165 mounts for downriggers, BBQ, cutting boards. Replacing old water heater with a Wallas Viking diesel air/water heater and 6 gallon water tank. Freshwater washdown on back dec, with heated water for rinsing gear. Cut out the old sink inside the cab and convert into a bench seat. Replace all the plastic thru hulls below the waterline with brass. Rewiring basically the whole boat with Blue seas waterproof panels on the back deck and a variety of blue seas switches in the cab.

The wish list (maybes)
Simrad autopilot. Figure out a way to have a remote steering/shift/throttle for the kicker along with a tiller. (I'm a tiller guy from running jet sleds all my life and there's no better control in tight situations than a tiller.) Only part i'm really stuck on is having shift linkages in the tiller and remotely. Removable insulated fish tote that can sit in the extra space in the old engine compartment. Would like a removable bait tank or possibly a bait tank mounted on the swimstep.

Up Next:
Finishing some gutting of the interior, thoroughly degrease and clean the boat before any grinding or surface prep then waiting for warmer weather to start in on the glass work. I'm doing all the glasswork and bracket work myself. Filling in the i/o key hole, knee braces tied into the transom and stringers wrapped. 1708 glass, polyester resin and PVC80 core. Already have the gel coat color matched. Lot of work ahead. Waiting for warmer weather and longer days to really get cranking. Pics to follow.
 
Personely id go with the 20 hp zuk kicker I have a 26 foot boat as well (now 31 with pod) and very heavy and it moves it with no problems ... when you buy a package like that sometimes they really give you a good deal...
 
Personely id go with the 20 hp zuk kicker I have a 26 foot boat as well (now 31 with pod) and very heavy and it moves it with no problems ... when you buy a package like that sometimes they really give you a good deal...
I love Suzuki motors, but I dont think they make a 15, 20 or 25 kicker in a 25" shaft. Ideally im going with a 25" shaft kicker with a 5" bay kit to make it 30".
 
Yes they do its a extension they put that on mine ...
 
And FYI if you havent ordered motors yet may be hard to find , if you want to see how the 350 zuk works and if your in sooke area could definatlly show ya
 
Your going to go bronze on those thruhulls Sean. Make sure you stick with bronze for the ball valves and fittings also. Check out the Groco stuff. Little less money than the Buck stuff, and their ball valves are really nice.

Why the power steering?
 
Wolf, thanks. I'm south of the border but use any excuse to sneak up north. I would be curious to see what mounting height and pitch prop you ended with. Those 350's are weird in that they never really blow out if they are mounted too high. They just slip more.

Ship, the 350s are really hard to steer without power assist no matter what height or trim you use. Additionally, if I tie bar my kicker I like the easy steering. And I meant bronze. Fat fingered it
 
Wolf, thanks. I'm south of the border but use any excuse to sneak up north. I would be curious to see what mounting height and pitch prop you ended with. Those 350's are weird in that they never really blow out if they are mounted too high. They just slip more.

Ship, the 350s are really hard to steer without power assist no matter what height or trim you use. Additionally, if I tie bar my kicker I like the easy steering. And I meant bronze. Fat fingered it

Hard to believe that it would be tough to steer. Standard seastar stuff works just fine on dual prop I/O platforms. The seastar pro stuff works great with twin outboard setups also.

@wolf Do you have problems steering your 350?

The seastar power unit works great. I personally steer around that system (much like the verado) because they draw power all the time. Hefty price tag to boot.
 
I would be curious to see what mounting height and pitch prop you ended with. Those 350's are weird in that they never really blow out if they are mounted too high. They just slip more.
Its approx 1/2 of a inch above the bottom of the pod, and using the scale of props they figured 21.5 pitch but I couldnt get to that top end even trimed out and trim tabbed so we went down to 19.5 pitch and got to the middle of top end.

Ship, the 350s are really hard to steer without power assist no matter what height or trim you use. Additionally, if I tie bar my kicker I like the easy steering. And I meant bronze. Fat fingered it
As for steering its not bad at all now coming from a inboard and power steering yest totally felt a huge difference , one way is easier then the other but its not that hard really I have both my main and my kicker tied in so both move while trolling and its very easy to do.
Ill be honest the power steering i looked into as you can always add to it later personaly you dont need it. I have a tiny 9 inch wheel and trolling even in windy etc is quite easy .. all I can say is come see for yourself LOL
 
Ship, is there a unit that doesn't draw continuous power. The other main option is the Uflex Masterdrive, but I thought it drew continuous power too?

Wolf, thanks. 1/2" to 1" above the projected bottom on a full bottom extension is what we've found too. We out 19.5" props on a buddies 27' orca and we can get about 6100, but there's some slip because its still mounted a hair high. I think your boat will be roughly the same weight as this osprey. 7500lbs?? I would like to get up there. Still have yet to fish, let alone see, that area.
 
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I think your boat will be roughly the same weight as this osprey. 7500lbs?? I would like to get up there. Still have yet to fish, let alone see, that area.
I thought ti was until i loaded it all up they say dry weight when I talked to bill hourston 15 years ago because my boat is double hulled its close to 7500 dry with fuel water all my S#*t id say im more like over 9000 hence why we had to go to 19.5 and wot was just at 5350 if i recall , i havent gone past that in while . i just do my 26 to 30 mph at 4100 to 4300 crusing nicely
 
I thought ti was until i loaded it all up they say dry weight when I talked to bill hourston 15 years ago because my boat is double hulled its close to 7500 dry with fuel water all my S#*t id say im more like over 9000 hence why we had to go to 19.5 and wot was just at 5350 if i recall , i havent gone past that in while . i just do my 26 to 30 mph at 4100 to 4300 crusing nicely
So you're current WOT with the 19.5 is 5350 or it was 5350 with the 21? Running the premium fuel or no?
 
Sorry went back to my notes the 21.5 got to 5300

The 19.5 pitch prop got to 5750, so I guess what I should try now it has over 100 hours see what my WOT is now... and yes mid grade we call it up here .
 
Slow going but figured id add some pics. Life and fishing getting in the way and seems like all my "help" is usually busy. So it's me, myself and I doing all the work. Additionally, the more I cut into it the more I find small odds and ends that my OCD is making me fix. For example, the entire deck is floating above the top of the stringers. Zero support. So while I had everything open, I decided to build supports/spacers and bond them in and tab the stringers to the underside of the deck.

Outdrive hole filled, all holes on the transom filled, knee braces are in and glassed, need to cut my rigging tube holes in them (you can kind of see my holes inglassed over). Entire aft section of deck is supported and tabbed to stringers. Hatch and back panel are about to go in this week. Holes filled in back deck.
 
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Wolf, I should clarify, I have 5" diameter "rigging holes" drilled through the knee braces. Since the ospreyvhave the rear door on the starboard side, I needed to drill a hole in order to pass rigging from the starboard side to the middle of the transom. I won't drill rigging holes in the actual transom unitl I have the pod, motors, steering, etc installed.

Leaseman, i do somewhere ill see if I can find them.
 
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