Project left overs (23 Hourston)

[Offshoretime]

I thought you guys might be interested in another rebuild..
I have had this Hourston 23 for 6 years and finally have a chance to rebuild it. I have sold it a couple of time to No shows and tried to trade it off but here it is..
My father built sailboats in the early 2000s but got taken out with the 2008 recession. Long story short we are back in manufacturing mining switchgear but still have a lot of fibreglass supplies sitting around, so I thought I would put it to good use..
Because we are slow at the shop waiting for absolutely everything we order I started on the boat…

 

[ab1752]

So, great start for sure. What's your planned outcome for this boat? Sounds like a great way to kill time while we all recover from those two dreaded words "material shortages".

 

[Offshoretime]

The plan for the boat is full rebuild,paint top and bottom and add an aluminum pod with twin verados.
I could use some advice on the pod as I don’t see too many 23 with twins..
The interior I’m not sure on just yet but I might use the galley mold from the sailboat as it’s very similar..

 

[Offshoretime]

The transom core is ready
I used some structural foam were the trim tabs will be screwed on and also a bit of coosa board for the plug and bilge area.
Testing the fit.

 

[ab1752]

The plan for the boat is full rebuild,paint top and bottom and add an aluminum pod with twin verados.
I could use some advice on the pod as I don’t see too many 23 with twins..
The interior I’m not sure on just yet but I might use the galley mold from the sailboat as it’s very similar..

I haven't seen twins on a 23, only a 26 and that was a factory build on an island runner. It is nothing special other than an Armstrong pod and now has twin 200 yamahas. When I saw it last summer it was stern heavy.

There is a naval architect who can design your pod around town for about 2k. I think that's money well spent and then you simply take your design to your friendly pod builder and have at it. @Brando on these boards would be a great person to start with. Cheers

 

[Offshoretime]

Here are the Verados
And some more progress on the hull..
All holes are getting filled
Finally the OMC nightmare is gone
Transom also got a little beef up in the corners
All glass is done with Vinyl Ester

 

[Offshoretime]

I haven't seen twins on a 23, only a 26 and that was a factory build on an island runner. It is nothing special other than an Armstrong pod and now has twin 200 yamahas. When I saw it last summer it was stern heavy.

There is a naval architect who can design your pod around town for about 2k. I think that's money well spent and then you simply take your design to your friendly pod builder and have at it. @Brando on these boards would be a great person to start with. Cheers

Thanks ab
I was gonna build the pod my self as a full flotation with a notch but to get it designed might be an option..
I remember there was a guy with twin Hondas but can’t seem to find any info anywhere
P

 

[ab1752]

Thanks ab
I was gonna build the pod my self as a full flotation with a notch but to get it designed might be an option..
I remember there was a guy with twin Hondas but can’t seem to find any info anywhere
P

@Aces has twins on his 26' hourston too. Having the design work done will save a world of pain, I figure anyway.

 

[Brando]

Hourstons hull design is pretty straightforward and responds well to the full flotation pods. Just taper up slightly 1-1.5” and 34” back you’ll be fine. You don’t need to support the full weight of those motors buoyancy wise, just figure out what you need for width and leg heights and you shouldn’t have any issues. Gets a little more involved if your planning to do self bailing deck but I’m assuming not?

 

[Aces]

@Aces has twins on his 26' hourston too. Having the design work done will save a world of pain, I figure anyway.

I’m in Nanaimo if anyone wants to measure while in the water

 

[Offshoretime]

Hourstons hull design is pretty straightforward and responds well to the full flotation pods. Just taper up slightly 1-1.5” and 34” back you’ll be fine. You don’t need to support the full weight of those motors buoyancy wise, just figure out what you need for width and leg heights and you shouldn’t have any issues. Gets a little more involved if your planning to do self bailing deck but I’m assuming not?

Good to know .
Kind of what I was thinking but with a step the last 12 inches instead of the taper.
I have a lot of experience with performance boats and the taper can cause a negative reaction but this hull is nothing like I’m used to but hopefully I can see high 40’s
I thought of raising it around 3 inches above bottom also
The deck will most likely stay stock I don’t want to raise the hard top and everything involved..

 

[Offshoretime]

I’m in Nanaimo if anyone wants to measure while in the water

That would be awesome but I’m in the Okanagan.
Do you have any pics?

 

[Offshoretime]

The strakes were stressed from rotted stringers so we took out most of the bad and re laminated..
They will get filled with structural foam and capped.
This makes them solid and keeps the stringers out of any potential moisture. Most rotten stringers I have seen are because they sit in the strake and the glass has no strength at those angles and forms cracks, letting water in.

 

[Brando]

Good to know .
Kind of what I was thinking but with a step the last 12 inches instead of the taper.
I have a lot of experience with performance boats and the taper can cause a negative reaction but this hull is nothing like I’m used to but hopefully I can see high 40’s
I thought of raising it around 3 inches above bottom also
The deck will most likely stay stock I don’t want to raise the hard top and everything involved..

I wouldn’t raise it up at all personally. Start at flush or 1/8”-1/4”up at the transom and taper up 1-1.5” over the 34” aim to have your cav plates set 1” up and you should see good results. in my experience the tapering or raising from the keel line too much doesn’t have good results on these hulls.

 

[Offshoretime]

I wouldn’t raise it up at all personally. Start at flush or 1/8”-1/4”up at the transom and taper up 1-1.5” over the 34” aim to have your cav plates set 1” up and you should see good results. in my experience the tapering or raising from the keel line too much doesn’t have good results on these hulls.

Thanks Brando
I’ll finish up the transom next week and start drawing it up.

 

[Offshoretime]

We rough cut some 1/2 inch and laminated for the stringers today. It wasn’t easy to clamp 16 feet straight lol..
Can’t wait to finish this stage of the build..

 

[Offshoretime]

Transom core is finally in!

 

[Offshoretime]

We haven’t worked on the Hourston for a week or so.It’s been raining here every day and the humidity is very high for glassing in the wood and seems to affect the Vinyl resin.
So decided to give the other family member a face lift with new decals …

 

[Offshoretime]

Ok
Some headway,finally…
Managed to fill the strakes and cut and fitted the stringers, left them tall .Still deciding on self draining or not ?
what are the pros and cons ?

 

[trophywife]

absolutely raise the floor and install scuppers..
for all the good reasons, there are no bad ones.