Gaddammit need to rethink the chartplotter

  • So with the first plan to use a Lowrance Elite FS9, let it eat 1/2 with a small screen

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Go with a Garmin GPSMAP 943XSV, Which will only eat half my dash and buy reading glasses

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    9
  • Poll closed .
Just started following, very very nice work...
 
Driveline finally arrived, unwrapped it and found out that the carrier was nice enough to break the pallet and dent the oil pan, I guess they knew I wanted to replace it for no reason.
 

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Quick test fit of the transom shield, and stopped by the scrap yard to get a new galley counter top, trimmed it down a bit, still a bit more trimming to go, then will install the sink from below and have it fully seem welded, then will add a couple drains in the corners, and voila!!! Stainless industrial grade galley. May go though the effort of spending hours on a scotchbrite pad to give it a scalloped finish
 

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A few beers and just as many hours later, anchor chain and rhode is marked every 25’. This has been by far my preferred method of marking ground tackle. A buch of colors of Paradcord and some spare time, and you end up with a very clean and long lasting marking system.
 

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A few beers and just as many hours later, anchor chain and rhode is marked every 25’. This has been by far my preferred method of marking ground tackle. A buch of colors of Paradcord and some spare time, and you end up with a very clean and long lasting marking system.

Geez now you're just bragging, haha! Great work, I'd end up with a serious mess on my hands.
 
Started tearing the engine down to clean up the spots of rust and repaint, then thought “well I might as well just rebuild it for ***** and giggles” no sense in not rebuilding it since it only takes me about 10 hours start to finish. The engine had about 400hrs, but no scoring whatsoever, all the crosshatching still looking untouched. So it will be a simple hone, new gaskets and rings, and I will take a look at the main and con rod bearings to see if they are worth replacing. I will be sending the block and heads out for a hot tank dip, all the other components will get sand blasted. Then everything will get repainted, possibly powder coated.... or two part enamel?!!Haven’t decided yet.
Distributor and coil are getting upgraded to MSD units. And the engine will be getting hooked up for nmea/can bus coms so engine data will be displayed on a dedicated 7 or 9 inch display
 

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Dang glad you are following through with this build, unlike someone else I know :(

Looking really awesome! Great craftsmanship and love the wood :) O and keep the flybridge, lov'it!
 
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so of course as most people know parts are in short suppy, but in the meantime while I wait on other parts, I have spec'ed out the engine rebuild and put the parts on order.

Basically its getting an assembly that can handle 600 + hp and 7000 rpm, but Im keeping it at the factory 300-ish hp and will never see anything over 5500 rpm, so it will be a well overbuilt engine, with parts that are worth carrying over to a new engine should something terrible happen.

for those that understand engine building this should give you something to salivate over.
-block has been milled to .030 over, and getting surfaced
-rotating assembly is getting blanced and blueprinted,
-heads are the stock vortec 906's and now have had the press in studs removed for qin. everything is getting touched off and squared

parts going in are:

ARP High Performance Series Cylinder Head Bolt Kits
ARP Main Stud Kits
ARP Pro Series Rocker Arm Studs
ARP Timing Cover Bolt Kits
COMP Cams Steel Valve Spring Retainers
COMP Cams Beehive Valve Springs
COMP Cams Race Valve Locks
Clevite Coated H-Series Main Bearings
Cloyes Original Race True Roller Timing Set
Eddie Motorsports Aluminum Valve Covers
Fel-Pro Performance PermaTorque MLS Head Gaskets
Holley Cast Aluminum Timing Cover
King HP-Series Cam Bearings
Manley Race Series Stainless Steel Valves
Manley Chromoly Swedged End Pushrods
Melling Shark Tooth Oil Pump,High-volume, High-pressure.
Milodon Freeze Plug Kit
MSD Street Fire EFI Distributor
MSD Blaster OEM Replacement Coil
Chevrolet Performance Rear Main Seal
PRW Pro Series Stainless Steel Rocker Arms
PRW Billet Rocker Arm Stud Girdle
Performance Quotient PQx SFI-Rated Racing FluidGel Damper
Scat Forged 4340 Standard Weight Crankshaft
Scat forged 4340 H-Beam Connecting Rods
SCE Pro Copper Annealed Exhaust Gaskets
Wiseco Pro Tru Street Pistons

pictures of the buildup will start popping up as soon as the parts hit the doormat
 
What camshaft specs are you going with?
I’m keeping the stock cam since it already has the most modern fuel injection system and there is no point in changing the cam as it would require reprogramming the ECU and would actually make it a less reliable engine, The goal is not to produce more power, its to lower internal stresses, beef up all the components to make structural failure negligible, and make it run as smooth as possible. In the end I am doing it to make the engine last as long as possible with the lowest likelihood of internal failure.
 
Last layer of bilge coat white goes down, now to stat running the wiring and fuel systems.
 

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