Flasher & Colors
The flasher is designed to attract fish trough vibrations first and then sight… transitioning the fish to the movement of the bait/lure. Leader length and presentation are far moreimportant than flasher color.
“White – No question…my personal favorite…” a statement made by another, is a correct statement, especially for fish here in the Puget Sound area and running in deep water. This does follow the Spectrum Fishing Theory. White is made up of the colors red, blue, and green. As it descends, it loses the color in its respective spectrum. At approximately 14 feet, it starts to loset he red spectrum, leaving the blue and green to be seen. Not a bad choice! If I had but one to choose from here in PS, it would be white! However, on the WCVI my favoritecolors are green/silver, red/silver, and blue/silver.
Light is absorbed by water according to wavelength with the longer wave radiation (red) absorbed first. Maximum transmission is for short wavelengths of light. This absorption accounts for the disappearance of color from flashers and lures. In other words, a red flasher will appear black in deep water because no red light is present to reflect. If one is running red or orange below 20 feet,the color is not showing and it appears brown or black. If they are having success with these colors it is not due to the red or orange color, but related to the action, the flash (some glow paint or tape), or the fact that it is actually showing as black or brown in color. This is true as you move down in depth with the other colors.
We have all sought ways to determine the best colors. With most selecting a color either by asking others what is working or by picking one that has served well in the past. However, the best way is to use the Spectrum. It has proven reliable. Red is the favorite choice of fish if the red light rays are visible to them. When red rays are not visible, the closest to red in the color spectrum becomes the favorite. Therefore, a red flasher or lure should be the first to consider? Not necessarily, red is also the first color to fade out entirely and usually at a depth of approximately 14 feet, hence why most people end up using green. I am included! Orange, purple, and ultraviolet rays disappear below 45 feet (13.7 m). Yellow is visible to 90 feet (27.4 m), green to 110 feet (33.5 m), and blue to 180 feet (24.4 m). Colors below their visibility range only show as grey or black. I do switch to blue quite often in the afternoon and on overcast days! Remember even though the color fades, it is the contrast of that color that is important, also.
I use this to remember what colors to use, divide the solar spectrum into colors that are warm (red, orange, and yellow) or cold (green and blue). Warm colors are considered when fishing shallow water and in bright light. Cold colors when fishing deeper water and during lower-light periods.
Your metallic’s can also be considered, since they reflect specific colors. Brass and copper reflect yellow and orange, respectively. Silver reflects white. Nickel and chrome, as if mirrors reflect existing color rays at their depth. Black is made up of all colors and hence is the best contrast color.
Fluorescent colors offered in some flashers and lures look sharp; however, I see no real advantage for their use. Incidentally, fluorescents activated by ultraviolet rays are effective only in the upper 45 feet of the water column. Phosphorescent finishes are a different story, when exposed to light such as a flashlight they glow white. At least, for short periods then require recharging. Phosphorescent lures have proven effective on Chinook salmon especially early morning and late evening.
Because it greatly affects color penetration, light intensity must be considered when selecting the color. During the day, direct sunlight is the main light source, but a lesser significant source is diffused sky light. Direct light rays striking the water at a 30-degree angle or less are reflected, not contributing any light downward. The exception is on windy days when the angles of waves catch some of the rays and send flashes of light downward. This is why a chop on the surface is such a big help to fishing. Once light strikes the water at an angle greater than 30 degrees, it starts to penetrate deeper and deeper as the sun moves toward noon, with maximum penetration at mid-day. Then the sun starts to descend and light intensity decreases to eventual darkness. It is important to realize that colors penetrate differently as the day advances and light intensity changes. For a while in early light only blue rays will show. Then gradually green will be visible to fish, then yellow, and so on. Mid-day is optimum for penetration of all colors. During the afternoon, color visibility changes in reverse order, blue the last to be seen.
Each manufacturer has their own recommendations for leader length between the flasher and bait. These recommendationsare a good place to start. The length recommendations change for many reasons and need to be modified as needed for the fishing conditions. Since I am partial to “Hot Spot” flashers, I can attest the manufacturer recommended lengths due work.
However, in the end, one still needs to remember; the most important thing is the TOTAL overall:
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