I have recently modified several of my flashers to the farr better/break-away style. Has anyone with a lot of experience using these flashers noticed any difference in the action they produce, when using the standard middle pin position?? The reason I ask is because Im wondering if you need to change your favorite leader lengths for hootchies??
Picking the right flasher
- Thread starter Highliner
- Start date
sammyslabber
Active Member
I'm not ready to come out of the closet yet...
Pippen
Well-Known Member
I think it was "BigMouthMikey"
on the other forum who posted up a pick of his rig doing just that.
Peahead
Well-Known Member
The flasher sliding halfway up the line however can cause some boats to come too close and possibly cut off a fish because they are thinking of the norm where your fish would be 3-6 ' to the flasher. With a FBF there could be 20'-60' or more distance from flasher to the fish so in crowded conditions I would feel far better ( no pun intended ) having my regular hotspot flasher out 6' from the fish marking where the fish sits on the surface.
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After converting to the break-away system on flashers I'm totally sold on this type of set up!! the fight is way better and I also feel like it may increase your odds of landing a fish when out solo or when an inexperienced person is on the rod. This is obviously because the flasher is no longer an issue during the fight. I haven't had any problems with the pin coming out as well.
If you're going to make your own you just need to make sure the top ring on the flasher is large enough that your swivel or mainline connection can pass through freely.
I would highly recommend giving them a try! very fun.
If you're going to make your own you just need to make sure the top ring on the flasher is large enough that your swivel or mainline connection can pass through freely.
I would highly recommend giving them a try! very fun.
Big Green Machine
Well-Known Member
I'm surprised you've never heard of em Danny Boy, even us apple eating, interior dwelling land lubbers have heard of em. I have 10 flashers, mostly green, a couple of purple, a couple red and a pink one.
Pippen
Well-Known Member
Call me old school.....
So they float up the line or something...... or pop right off
Hey Lippy.....they stay attached to the line but just float up the line to my understanding. First time I have ever used one....BCI had them on his boat; we got skunked so no chance to "test" them out.
But....I am old school too. I'd go with a Kone Zone on the ball with the presentation above it before going with a breakaway.
Charlie
Well-Known Member
There is no direct relationship between drop back and leader length; however, the changing of either does change the action on your bait and your presentation. Think of it like a marriage, two individuals... if both parties are working together,you will catch fish. If either party is not working with the other partner or is working against them, you will not!
The shorter the leader behind the flasher inputs more action on the bait. You want a short leader on a hoochie, which has no action of its own, and a longer leader for anchovies that have built in action. For bait/lures that have their own action, you need to allow enough leader length that the flasher does not inhibit the action. I start with 6-8' leaders while fishing bait during summer and fall runs, but the length recommendations change for many reasons. The size of flasher, trolling speed, amount of current, type of bait, leader material (test), species of fish, and time of year.
The flasher is the attractant and designed to spin and rotate to impart more action to the bait. The distance behind the release clip does increase the diameter of rotation, but that should be offset by your speed. Hotspot actually recommends a drop back between 30 and up to 70 feet when fishing shallow waters. The emphasis should be on rolling the bait at 60 RPM. I have used a 100 feet drop back to pull the bait over a shoal or close to rocks where I did not want to take my boat.
Oh btw, the only way a flasher can stall is for the boat to be going to slow, stopping the flashers forward movement, weeds/debris, and the flasher breaking the water surface. Hotspots are designed to fish between 1.5 - 3.5 mph and as long as you stay within these limits, the flasher will work as designed.
The shorter the leader behind the flasher inputs more action on the bait. You want a short leader on a hoochie, which has no action of its own, and a longer leader for anchovies that have built in action. For bait/lures that have their own action, you need to allow enough leader length that the flasher does not inhibit the action. I start with 6-8' leaders while fishing bait during summer and fall runs, but the length recommendations change for many reasons. The size of flasher, trolling speed, amount of current, type of bait, leader material (test), species of fish, and time of year.
The flasher is the attractant and designed to spin and rotate to impart more action to the bait. The distance behind the release clip does increase the diameter of rotation, but that should be offset by your speed. Hotspot actually recommends a drop back between 30 and up to 70 feet when fishing shallow waters. The emphasis should be on rolling the bait at 60 RPM. I have used a 100 feet drop back to pull the bait over a shoal or close to rocks where I did not want to take my boat.
Oh btw, the only way a flasher can stall is for the boat to be going to slow, stopping the flashers forward movement, weeds/debris, and the flasher breaking the water surface. Hotspots are designed to fish between 1.5 - 3.5 mph and as long as you stay within these limits, the flasher will work as designed.
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Charlie
Well-Known Member
Flasher & Colors
The flasher is designed to attract fish trough vibrations first and then sight… transitioning the fish to the movement of the bait/lure. Leader length and presentation are far moreimportant than flasher color.
“White – No question…my personal favorite…” a statement made by another, is a correct statement, especially for fish here in the Puget Sound area and running in deep water. This does follow the Spectrum Fishing Theory. White is made up of the colors red, blue, and green. As it descends, it loses the color in its respective spectrum. At approximately 14 feet, it starts to loset he red spectrum, leaving the blue and green to be seen. Not a bad choice! If I had but one to choose from here in PS, it would be white! However, on the WCVI my favoritecolors are green/silver, red/silver, and blue/silver.
Light is absorbed by water according to wavelength with the longer wave radiation (red) absorbed first. Maximum transmission is for short wavelengths of light. This absorption accounts for the disappearance of color from flashers and lures. In other words, a red flasher will appear black in deep water because no red light is present to reflect. If one is running red or orange below 20 feet,the color is not showing and it appears brown or black. If they are having success with these colors it is not due to the red or orange color, but related to the action, the flash (some glow paint or tape), or the fact that it is actually showing as black or brown in color. This is true as you move down in depth with the other colors.
We have all sought ways to determine the best colors. With most selecting a color either by asking others what is working or by picking one that has served well in the past. However, the best way is to use the Spectrum. It has proven reliable. Red is the favorite choice of fish if the red light rays are visible to them. When red rays are not visible, the closest to red in the color spectrum becomes the favorite. Therefore, a red flasher or lure should be the first to consider? Not necessarily, red is also the first color to fade out entirely and usually at a depth of approximately 14 feet, hence why most people end up using green. I am included! Orange, purple, and ultraviolet rays disappear below 45 feet (13.7 m). Yellow is visible to 90 feet (27.4 m), green to 110 feet (33.5 m), and blue to 180 feet (24.4 m). Colors below their visibility range only show as grey or black. I do switch to blue quite often in the afternoon and on overcast days! Remember even though the color fades, it is the contrast of that color that is important, also.
I use this to remember what colors to use, divide the solar spectrum into colors that are warm (red, orange, and yellow) or cold (green and blue). Warm colors are considered when fishing shallow water and in bright light. Cold colors when fishing deeper water and during lower-light periods.
Your metallic’s can also be considered, since they reflect specific colors. Brass and copper reflect yellow and orange, respectively. Silver reflects white. Nickel and chrome, as if mirrors reflect existing color rays at their depth. Black is made up of all colors and hence is the best contrast color.
Fluorescent colors offered in some flashers and lures look sharp; however, I see no real advantage for their use. Incidentally, fluorescents activated by ultraviolet rays are effective only in the upper 45 feet of the water column. Phosphorescent finishes are a different story, when exposed to light such as a flashlight they glow white. At least, for short periods then require recharging. Phosphorescent lures have proven effective on Chinook salmon especially early morning and late evening.
Because it greatly affects color penetration, light intensity must be considered when selecting the color. During the day, direct sunlight is the main light source, but a lesser significant source is diffused sky light. Direct light rays striking the water at a 30-degree angle or less are reflected, not contributing any light downward. The exception is on windy days when the angles of waves catch some of the rays and send flashes of light downward. This is why a chop on the surface is such a big help to fishing. Once light strikes the water at an angle greater than 30 degrees, it starts to penetrate deeper and deeper as the sun moves toward noon, with maximum penetration at mid-day. Then the sun starts to descend and light intensity decreases to eventual darkness. It is important to realize that colors penetrate differently as the day advances and light intensity changes. For a while in early light only blue rays will show. Then gradually green will be visible to fish, then yellow, and so on. Mid-day is optimum for penetration of all colors. During the afternoon, color visibility changes in reverse order, blue the last to be seen.
Each manufacturer has their own recommendations for leader length between the flasher and bait. These recommendationsare a good place to start. The length recommendations change for many reasons and need to be modified as needed for the fishing conditions. Since I am partial to “Hot Spot” flashers, I can attest the manufacturer recommended lengths due work.
However, in the end, one still needs to remember; the most important thing is the TOTAL overall:
FYI... feel free to copy and use for personal use - it is not to be used commercially without written consent!
The flasher is designed to attract fish trough vibrations first and then sight… transitioning the fish to the movement of the bait/lure. Leader length and presentation are far moreimportant than flasher color.
“White – No question…my personal favorite…” a statement made by another, is a correct statement, especially for fish here in the Puget Sound area and running in deep water. This does follow the Spectrum Fishing Theory. White is made up of the colors red, blue, and green. As it descends, it loses the color in its respective spectrum. At approximately 14 feet, it starts to loset he red spectrum, leaving the blue and green to be seen. Not a bad choice! If I had but one to choose from here in PS, it would be white! However, on the WCVI my favoritecolors are green/silver, red/silver, and blue/silver.
Light is absorbed by water according to wavelength with the longer wave radiation (red) absorbed first. Maximum transmission is for short wavelengths of light. This absorption accounts for the disappearance of color from flashers and lures. In other words, a red flasher will appear black in deep water because no red light is present to reflect. If one is running red or orange below 20 feet,the color is not showing and it appears brown or black. If they are having success with these colors it is not due to the red or orange color, but related to the action, the flash (some glow paint or tape), or the fact that it is actually showing as black or brown in color. This is true as you move down in depth with the other colors.
We have all sought ways to determine the best colors. With most selecting a color either by asking others what is working or by picking one that has served well in the past. However, the best way is to use the Spectrum. It has proven reliable. Red is the favorite choice of fish if the red light rays are visible to them. When red rays are not visible, the closest to red in the color spectrum becomes the favorite. Therefore, a red flasher or lure should be the first to consider? Not necessarily, red is also the first color to fade out entirely and usually at a depth of approximately 14 feet, hence why most people end up using green. I am included! Orange, purple, and ultraviolet rays disappear below 45 feet (13.7 m). Yellow is visible to 90 feet (27.4 m), green to 110 feet (33.5 m), and blue to 180 feet (24.4 m). Colors below their visibility range only show as grey or black. I do switch to blue quite often in the afternoon and on overcast days! Remember even though the color fades, it is the contrast of that color that is important, also.
I use this to remember what colors to use, divide the solar spectrum into colors that are warm (red, orange, and yellow) or cold (green and blue). Warm colors are considered when fishing shallow water and in bright light. Cold colors when fishing deeper water and during lower-light periods.
Your metallic’s can also be considered, since they reflect specific colors. Brass and copper reflect yellow and orange, respectively. Silver reflects white. Nickel and chrome, as if mirrors reflect existing color rays at their depth. Black is made up of all colors and hence is the best contrast color.
Fluorescent colors offered in some flashers and lures look sharp; however, I see no real advantage for their use. Incidentally, fluorescents activated by ultraviolet rays are effective only in the upper 45 feet of the water column. Phosphorescent finishes are a different story, when exposed to light such as a flashlight they glow white. At least, for short periods then require recharging. Phosphorescent lures have proven effective on Chinook salmon especially early morning and late evening.
Because it greatly affects color penetration, light intensity must be considered when selecting the color. During the day, direct sunlight is the main light source, but a lesser significant source is diffused sky light. Direct light rays striking the water at a 30-degree angle or less are reflected, not contributing any light downward. The exception is on windy days when the angles of waves catch some of the rays and send flashes of light downward. This is why a chop on the surface is such a big help to fishing. Once light strikes the water at an angle greater than 30 degrees, it starts to penetrate deeper and deeper as the sun moves toward noon, with maximum penetration at mid-day. Then the sun starts to descend and light intensity decreases to eventual darkness. It is important to realize that colors penetrate differently as the day advances and light intensity changes. For a while in early light only blue rays will show. Then gradually green will be visible to fish, then yellow, and so on. Mid-day is optimum for penetration of all colors. During the afternoon, color visibility changes in reverse order, blue the last to be seen.
Each manufacturer has their own recommendations for leader length between the flasher and bait. These recommendationsare a good place to start. The length recommendations change for many reasons and need to be modified as needed for the fishing conditions. Since I am partial to “Hot Spot” flashers, I can attest the manufacturer recommended lengths due work.
However, in the end, one still needs to remember; the most important thing is the TOTAL overall:
Presentation - Presentation - Presentation
FYI... feel free to copy and use for personal use - it is not to be used commercially without written consent!
Excellent post!
Dogbreath
Well-Known Member
One small correction-new generation glo finishes work for hours.
Over the counter units may or may not have the juice to keeping glowing but it's easy to add almost any colour (except black of course).
http://www.readysetglo.com/
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