26 x 9.5 northwest aluminum craft Build

[Alex_c]

Understand if you don’t want to discuss numbers, but what does doing all this work save a guy over the cost of fully built out, percentage-wise? I understand it’s not all about saving money (customization, familiarity with every nut and bolt, and how all systems are designed, etc.)

 

[sudsy]

Understand if you don’t want to discuss numbers, but what does doing all this work save a guy over the cost of fully built out, percentage-wise? I understand it’s not all about saving money (customization, familiarity with every nut and bolt, and how all systems are designed, etc.)

I think it would be hard to put a number on it - I think there is definitely savings but I'm also buying everything at consumer pricing vs a builder at wholesale. It would be pure speculation but I know I saved over 3k by rigging for my motors myself. I got a quote for both and opted to rig it myself - glad I did because not only was it quick and easy but I got to ensure everything was exactly where I wanted it.

So overall to answer- I'd say there is definitely savings - how much? That's a tough one to answer....I'd say I'm atleast 100-120hrs into this so depends how you value your time....I was told that it's about 100hrs to finish it - not sure what they would habe charged per hr ?

I'd definelty do it again - I've enjoyed every minute of it.

 

[Alex_c]

I think it would be hard to put a number on it - I think there is definitely savings but I'm also buying everything at consumer pricing vs a builder at wholesale. It would be pure speculation but I know I saved over 3k by rigging for my motors myself. I got a quote for both and opted to rig it myself - glad I did because not only was it quick and easy but I got to ensure everything was exactly where I wanted it.

So overall to answer- I'd say there is definitely savings - how much? That's a tough one to answer....I'd say I'm atleast 100-120hrs into this so depends how you value your time....I was told that it's about 100hrs to finish it - not sure what they would habe charged per hr ?

I'd definelty do it again - I've enjoyed every minute of it.

Looks like you’re doing great work. 120 hours is a pretty reasonable/manageable amount of time for a project. I’d love to do the same one day, so this build has been inspiring. Cheers

 

[Smellslikefish]

So you'll be installing the engines, rigging, electrical and electronics yourself? You'll love the 9.5' beam - awesome boat - congratulations!

 

[sudsy]

So you'll be installing the engines, rigging, electrical and electronics yourself? You'll love the 9.5' beam - awesome boat - congratulations!

I've rigged it all myself - it's going to the dealer to hang the motors, make the fuel/electrical connections and plug in the main harness. they are also going to connect the steering cylinder and fill/purge the steering system. They then need to program the boat control module for the controls and do the pdi on the motors to start the warranty etc. Should be minimal hrs labour to do that.

It's a massive boat with that 9.5 beam - can't wait to get it on the water!!

 

[kaelc]

Some of the highest margin work done yourself, a good apprentice would likely be assigned a bunch of the work you did. I was quoted $150 an hour plus tax for quite a lot of hours of rigging a single engine. $150 an hour for a top mechanic is worth every penny but I’ve heard a couple South Island horror stories on installs and got to experience my friends first hand on the west coast my quote “You need to take this back and tell them it could easily have resulted in your boat being sunk, if they can’t install it right they need get a shop who can or take it off.”

 

[Reel Gone]

If you have the ability which obviously you do then the time spent to do it is negligible. You will know that boat inside and out which makes a massive difference when there is a problem or a modification to do in the future. Good on you for taking this on, I would do the same if I had the option of purchasing that boat.

 

[Smellslikefish]

I've rigged it all myself - it's going to the dealer to hang the motors, make the fuel/electrical connections and plug in the main harness. they are also going to connect the steering cylinder and fill/purge the steering system. They then need to program the boat control module for the controls and do the pdi on the motors to start the warranty etc. Should be minimal hrs labour to do that.

Trailers with loads wider than 8.5' require a permit and flags on 4 corners to move them on BC Highways and that seems to steer most new boat builders and buyers to stick with an 8.5' beam. But it's not much of a barrier when you consider that it's a $1 per day permit that you can buy over the phone.

 

[sudsy]

Yah then permit is super easy, I just called in and got a 90 day and it took about 15 minutes to do over the phone.

 

[kaelc]

It's places like Washington state where a permit is only for 3 days and California where they are 7 days that over 8'6" becomes a pain. If a company is building a mold for a trailerable boat it makes sense to build it for less hassle for the biggest markets in the world for boats. That's where custom aluminum boat builders on the island are the best. They can make it to how you want.

 

[Smellslikefish]

It's places like Washington state where a permit is only for 3 days and California where they are 7 days that over 8'6" becomes a pain. If a company is building a mold for a trailerable boat it makes sense to build it for less hassle for the biggest markets in the world for boats. That's where custom aluminum boat builders on the island are the best. They can make it to how you want.

I didn't know Washington only offered a 3-day permit but that helps explain why the 20-year-old custom-built BC boat I bought from a guy in Washington State was advertised by the broker as having a 8.5' beam. I learned it was 9' from the folks at BC Ferries on my way home. No regrets buying it tho.

 

[MR fisher]

Beautiful job!

Where did you buy your electrical connectors and wiring? I need to do a rewiring job and am hoping to minimize costs.

 

[sudsy]

Beautiful job!

Where did you buy your electrical connectors and wiring? I need to do a rewiring job and am hoping to minimize costs.

Purchased a lot online from the binnacle. They had some great prices on bulk wire etc. Most of the rest I purchased locally at trotac. They will price match if you can show its cheaper elsewhere...I didn't cheap out - everything's blue sea, ancor/vertex wiring etc.

 

[Chuck]

I'm interested in what your total cost all in less your labour? In my estimation not including your labour of love. I'd guess you saved yourself well over $50K if not more, careful and diligently done all while keeping several tens of thousands in your jeans which leaves plenty for fuel. As well the knowledge of knowing the boat inside and out is critical to safe, pleasant and successful trips. Nicely done!

 

[Charter Tofino]

Beautiful setup! NWAC does an unbelievable job at functional layouts. I spend 200+ days a year in mine and did a number of small tweaks, upgrades and fixes. A few off the top of my head…

1. For the fish boxes, it’s really nice welding in handles to pull them out. I thought about going with macerating system to pump out but like the simplicity. Added pic to show handles.

2. I cut out the front of the bow rail. It makes it much easier to do beach drop offs. I’ll often nose into a steep section of rock and people can just step off vs doing the scorpion under the bow rail.

3. On the leg of the table put easy to remove pins or bolts through to avoid guests constantly lifting the table up and popping the leg out.

4. Rubber matting through the cab makes it really easy to clean. I sweep out daily then scrub it every few weeks. Looks sharp. Industrial plastic.

5.Watch for sharp edges in the gunnel where the wiring runs. I caught mine in time and added rubber lips to avoid chaffing.

6.Rod holders on the inside roof of the cabin. Great way to avoid clutter in the cuddy.

Upgrades to come

1.Side door to make it easier to step in from the dock. Many struggle with the high gunnels.
2.Transom door (just like yours).
3. A drawer system to replace the cubby’s that don’t maximize use to space.

 

[Aquaholic]

The cubby to drawer system sounds great, I have a small cubby on mine that I had to find suitable containers to fit and maximize, and still keep accessible in a rocking sea.

 

[bryce]

Beautiful setup! NWAC does an unbelievable job at functional layouts. I spend 200+ days a year in mine and did a number of small tweaks, upgrades and fixes. A few off the top of my head…

1. For the fish boxes, it’s really nice welding in handles to pull them out. I thought about going with macerating system to pump out but like the simplicity. Added pic to show handles.

2. I cut out the front of the bow rail. It makes it much easier to do beach drop offs. I’ll often nose into a steep section of rock and people can just step off vs doing the scorpion under the bow rail.

3. On the leg of the table put easy to remove pins or bolts through to avoid guests constantly lifting the table up and popping the leg out.

4. Rubber matting through the cab makes it really easy to clean. I sweep out daily then scrub it every few weeks. Looks sharp. Industrial plastic.

5.Watch for sharp edges in the gunnel where the wiring runs. I caught mine in time and added rubber lips to avoid chaffing.

6.Rod holders on the inside roof of the cabin. Great way to avoid clutter in the cuddy.

Upgrades to come

1.Side door to make it easier to step in from the dock. Many struggle with the high gunnels.
2.Transom door (just like yours).
3. A drawer system to replace the cubby’s that don’t maximize use to space.

I’ve got a removable step built by Doug that works great for getting in and out

 

[sudsy]

Beautiful setup! NWAC does an unbelievable job at functional layouts. I spend 200+ days a year in mine and did a number of small tweaks, upgrades and fixes. A few off the top of my head…

1. For the fish boxes, it’s really nice welding in handles to pull them out. I thought about going with macerating system to pump out but like the simplicity. Added pic to show handles.

2. I cut out the front of the bow rail. It makes it much easier to do beach drop offs. I’ll often nose into a steep section of rock and people can just step off vs doing the scorpion under the bow rail.

3. On the leg of the table put easy to remove pins or bolts through to avoid guests constantly lifting the table up and popping the leg out.

4. Rubber matting through the cab makes it really easy to clean. I sweep out daily then scrub it every few weeks. Looks sharp. Industrial plastic.

5.Watch for sharp edges in the gunnel where the wiring runs. I caught mine in time and added rubber lips to avoid chaffing.

6.Rod holders on the inside roof of the cabin. Great way to avoid clutter in the cuddy.

Upgrades to come

1.Side door to make it easier to step in from the dock. Many struggle with the high gunnels.
2.Transom door (just like yours).
3. A drawer system to replace the cubby’s that don’t maximize use to space.

Thanks for the real world input and ideas. I have been scratching my head at what I want to do with my flooring so I'll look into the flooring at industrial paint....I like the handles on the trays - without them I see it being a pain the butt to remove once full of fish.

I caught a few sherp edges during rigging - used large diameter loom to wrap the metal to allow for a round edge.

I plan on installing some rod holders in the cabin - been scratching my head on where I want to hang them - I'm leaning towards the starboard side...PICS to come once I install them...

Again thanks and thanks for sharing pics of your sweet setup!

 

[sudsy]

I’ve got a removable step built by Doug that works great for getting in and out

He provided 1 for me aswell - very simple design and makes it super easy to get up on the gunnel.

 

[Charter Tofino]

I’ve got a step as well but find there’s a slip risk and less mobile people struggle getting over the gunnel. The side doors are slick for stepping off the dock right into the boat.

My favourite rubber flooring is the black checker plate. It sweeps easier than the others and looks great. Comes off a roll in whatever length you need and is easy to cut out for install.

If you’ve got your heater under the table like mine, it might be worth adding a bit of a shield. I often had guests jam bags and kick feet down there. After pulled wires and broken ducting I finally added a shield and no more issues.

One of the best perks of custom aluminum is you can add things after the build. A couple more mods I added was a dive ladder, beefed up davit, tow post and surf rack.