26 x 9.5 northwest aluminum craft Build

Once I took the boat home I made quick work of the backbone electrical system. It consists of a 200ah agm house battery bank mid ships and a starting battery in the rear cabinet. Both are tied to an acr at the rear cabinet with the starting battery. During the build I spent hours designing and planning the electrical - procuring the proper gauge wiring, connectors, circuit breakers and bus bars. It took just over a week to put in the backbone then I could start wiring individual components moving forward. I was fortunate enough to copy this design from a mutual friends boat with the same hull.
 

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that electrical is nice! Will you do 40amps for the downriggers, it would be nice to not scramble for fuses when hung up on the bottom for the idiots who do that!
I'm doing 30amp fuses as recommended by scotty - I ran 10awg duplex to each rigger and use 15lb balls so it should draw more than 14.5 amps for normal operation with retrieve rate 295ft/min. The recommended 30a is overkill already so no need to up it higher in my opinion....I've never blown a fuse in the past but I check the connectors annually and keep the corrosion down with dielectric grease.
 
i wouldve done a dualbus system. do you have huge loads ? those breakers are huge. giant cooking range, hot water heater, trolling motor and ac or something ?
 
i wouldve done a dualbus system. do you have huge loads ? those breakers are huge. giant cooking range, hot water heater, trolling motor and ac or something ?
Those breakers feed my blue sea fuse block circuits - they are sized correctly based on loads / potential loads downstream along with proper sized wire ( 4awg). There is room for for growth as I add things down the road.

Not sure about your dual bus comment - the blue sea fuse panels I used are dual bus (positive and negative). i do have 2 positive only panels with a single 20 post negative bus for ease of wiring given space restrictions.

As far as major loads - I do have water pumps, holding tank macerator, 12v jabsco toilet, washdown pumps - all of which are big current draws.
 
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make sure you run at least 89 octane in that motor. That don’t like low octane.
 
Once the electrical backbone was done I moved on to fitting the sink and cutting the cup holders into the dinette table. I wanted to get them cleaned up and sent out for powder coating.

The wiper install took longer than I had imagined but mostly because I needed to fabricate spacers to keep the motor away from the window edge. I opted to wire each motor to a dedicated switch rather than one single switch.

I installed my shockwave base and tempress probax and began plumping the hoses in for my toilet. During the build they weld in the required below the water line thru hulls so I just needed to by the correct hose and route it to its location. I added a small holding tank and fitted a wye valve that locks out.

Once the fear of drilling into my nee boat wore off I installed my steering helm and began fitting all of the thru hulls for the tank vents, bilge pumps etc.
 

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Once I got my dinette and kitchenette tables back from powder coating I installed the sink and began wiring switches to devices, holding tank monitor, bilge pumps, nav lights, and a bunch of other small installs. I took advantage of my father in law who was visiting and he made me some starboard doors for my glovebox and under the driver's seat. He also made me some cabinet doors for under the sink kitchenette.
 

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dualbus is a busbar not a fuse block. the idea is you have one MRBF battery fuse at 275A or whatever and run to a bunch of dualbus circuits with 0AWG. then have inline self resetting fuses on each branch of the dualbus to individual loads.
that way you dont have spaghetti 4AWG runs fuse with 120A breakers all over the place. instead everything goes - single battery fuse for 0AWG to dualbus to self resetting fuse to 12AWG branch circuits. like a tree trunk instead of a bush. and no more changing small fuses required.
the dualbus is designed to be daisy chained with terminals on both ends so you can stick a few in a single run of the trunk line.
 
dualbus is a busbar not a fuse block. the idea is you have one MRBF battery fuse at 275A or whatever and run to a bunch of dualbus circuits with 0AWG. then have inline self resetting fuses on each branch of the dualbus to individual loads.
that way you dont have spaghetti 4AWG runs fuse with 120A breakers all over the place. instead everything goes - single battery fuse for 0AWG to dualbus to self resetting fuse to 12AWG branch circuits. like a tree trunk instead of a bush. and no more changing small fuses required.
the dualbus is designed to be daisy chained with terminals on both ends so you can stick a few in a single run of the trunk line.
I'm tracking what your saying - thanks for the clarification- it makes sense. Cheers and merry Christmas.
 
During the build - I had them weld a bracket on the back of the boat to mount my trim tabs. I opted to go with electric ( lectrotab). Doug was nice and tapped holes so all I needed to do was bolt them on with some stainless bolts.

While scrolling the internet early November i came across gpscity out of calgary....needless to say they had some hds live 12 units on onsale for $2599 wirh 3 in 1 transducer...I felt pressue to buy it as i wasnt sure what stock other places had and i knew they were discontinued.

Around the end of November I was itching to gemy the rest of my electronics sorted out. I saw the flyer for harbour chandler black friday sale and couldn't pass the opportunity to go and get hold of one of the half price halo 20+. I left sooke at 4am with hopes to be early enough to get one of the 6 units. I was surprised to be the 2nd in line upon my arrival at 5:45am....it was cold.......
While I was there I purchased the remainder of my electronics system ....Airmar p66, lowrance link 9 vhf, vhf whip, vhf mount, nmea 2000 starter kit, and came in 3 grand under budget because of all the deals( don't worry I already spent it elsewhere)...
 

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