23' & 26' Hourston Project Commenced...

[Eden Island]

Whatever happens, the one thing that, I think , we can all agree on is the quality of this build, I have done searches high and low and have yet to find anything remotely close to this thread... and if I keep the boat or let it go someone will have a boat for life!

I take pride in my work and knowing that during this build time I have received comments both private and open that my work would be undisputedly in comparison to seasoned professionals.

My 23 rebuild is ageing well at 14 years. I gave it a 10th anniversary present - repaired and buffed gelcoat, and redid the varnish - but I never find myself wondering how the foundation is. So I can add, knowing its not good money after bad. New chartplotter, OK. Keep the boat and trust it.

 

[Eden Island]

M

I have mine like Hindsights, but I too wish mine were forward about where his rod holder is. I also have 1 in the middle at the back. all downriggers have rod holders and I also have 2 more out the back between the riggers. and 2 more farer up in front of riggers. cannon balls hang off the riggers

My boat used to be operated as a charter boat, and the downriggers are mounted more than 3' forward of the transom - see my profile pic. Lots of room to play and net fish, and the bonus...they can be managed without leaving the shelter of the canvas dodger. Cannonballs are mounted on hooks.

 

[zurk]

Hey @zurk , been reading into the wee hours on this InterProtect 2000e and you are right, many apply up to 12 coats to achieve the recommended thickness but from what I can tell the product does cure/dry very hard with an effort but not impossible to sand. I can't seem to find any testimony to it being flaky, stupid question but it is a 2-part epoxy , are you using the correct ratio? and it should not come off from hitting debris, form what I can tell. The bottom paint is however a different animal, thank you for all your above info it got me to dig a bit deeper...

dude ive been applying it for the last 6+ years lol. its good stuff though.
you dont need to worry about ratios. just toss all the contents of the small can into the big can and then use a power drill mixer for 2 mins. then let it sit for 20 mins, put it on a solvent resistant roller with big handle and scrub your hull hard with it. once youre done run it over again with the dry-ish roller to pick up any droplets, toss the roller and dump the can into an ice bucket for 90 mins, then repeat the process. If the microplates have locked it will turn crinkely on top of the can in which case take a knife and lift the top surface off and toss it. you can see the hard flaky smooth shard at this point if you want to know what it looks like when it flakes off. once its bonded in a sufficiently thin layer on your hull its fine but if you scrape something the layers will flake off in thin translucent shards but they are hard and brittle. like thin glass sheets. its awesome stuff. highly recommend it but not on topside where gravity can pool the droplets and then you have flaking issues due to thickness. to apply topside you will need to scrub it really thin and make sure it doesnt pool anywhere. if you try and sand when its dry it will just flake off if you catch an edge or crack a layer. wouldnt recommend sanding once applied unless you want to remove it completely.

 

[EZZ70]

dude ive been applying it for the last 6+ years lol. its good stuff though.
you dont need to worry about ratios. just toss all the contents of the small can into the big can and then use a power drill mixer for 2 mins. then let it sit for 20 mins, put it on a solvent resistant roller with big handle and scrub your hull hard with it. once youre done run it over again with the dry-ish roller to pick up any droplets, toss the roller and dump the can into an ice bucket for 90 mins, then repeat the process. If the microplates have locked it will turn crinkely on top of the can in which case take a knife and lift the top surface off and toss it. you can see the hard flaky smooth shard at this point if you want to know what it looks like when it flakes off. once its bonded in a sufficiently thin layer on your hull its fine but if you scrape something the layers will flake off in thin translucent shards but they are hard and brittle. like thin glass sheets. its awesome stuff. highly recommend it but not on topside where gravity can pool the droplets and then you have flaking issues due to thickness. to apply topside you will need to scrub it really thin and make sure it doesnt pool anywhere. if you try and sand when its dry it will just flake off if you catch an edge or crack a layer. wouldnt recommend sanding once applied unless you want to remove it completely.

Thanks zurk, that makes sense... I now really think I have been recommended the wrong product! I think I will go with what I know will work which is a coat of epoxy resin, it doesn’t have fill properties but at least I know it is compatible with everything I’m using... Thank you Very much again for taking the time and sharing your experiences using this stuff...

would you recommend it for a trailer kept boat?

 

[EZZ70]

Sorry guys but last week I got side tracked, I was hoping to have gotten more done on the boat than I did. Prepped and sprayed a cap for my son, he is out of my garage so just got it cleaned up today was a bomb shell of a mess...!

 

[zurk]

Thanks zurk, that makes sense... I now really think I have been recommended the wrong product! I think I will go with what I know will work which is a coat of epoxy resin, it doesn’t have fill properties but at least I know it is compatible with everything I’m using... Thank you Very much again for taking the time and sharing your experiences using this stuff...

would you recommend it for a trailer kept boat?

for the hull ? absolutely. mine is trailer kept as well.

 

[EZZ70]

Gots a trim tab question?

From bottom of hull to transom there is about 1/2" radius in the transition. Hull to transom is not square as indicated in Bennett installation PDF.

Therefore, a little bit of the backing plate's bottom edge "flat bar" is exposed by app. 1/16"-1/8", will this create any planning or performance concerns?

The bottom of tab is flush with the bottom of the hull but there is just a little void the radius created which is my concern. Should I infill with caulking or raise the tabs above the radius?

If I move the tabs up I will have to infill 8 holes/per tab with epoxy and drill new ones 1/4" above the old, what say you?

Knowing all things I probably should have raised the tabs 1/4" to element this! I hate following instructions...

To make matters worst, I think I have a hair line crack in the top of the starboard head bracket, would anyone have one kicking around that I can reclaim? I think all the sealant I used will prevent water from going into the system but better to be on the safe side...

 

[Captain PartyMarty]

You don’t want to raise them up. I would just fill the gap or just leave it

 

[Rayvon]

Should be fine,wouldn't hurt to fill the radius with caulking.

 

[Doubleheader]

I would run some 5200 in areas of concern and run er. They will work fine, may create a bit of spray depending on mounting height but a swim grid or in my case a kicker bracket on stbd side and anchor buoys on port stops the spray onto main engine.

 

[EZZ70]

Should be fine,wouldn't hurt to fill the radius with caulking.

Hey, @Rayvon this is the sample board I was talking about, I use it to test compatibility, cure time and hardness on the 3 fairing compounds that I have been using...

As mentioned the TotalFair with an epoxy skim prep'ed will receive/bond with gelcoat... Duraglass and Profill has no issues what so ever with either epoxy or polyester bonding.

 

[EZZ70]

Good luck trying to rip these suckers out 3" x 3" x 1/4" CNC'ed SS backing plates for the 1/2” eye & shank w/nylon lock nuts ...

 

[Aces]

Good luck trying to rip these suckers out 3" x 3" x 1/4" CNC'ed SS backing plates for the eye's w/nylon lock nuts ...

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Yeah, that's the way to do it! I did something very similar. Same with my cleats

 

[EZZ70]

Yeah, that's the way to do it! I did something very similar. Same with my cleats

did you use 6” or 8” cleats? 6 “ cleats $20, 8” cleats $53 6” should be fine, no? Not sure what OEM was... they are only really fender holders lol

also, what’s a good fuel fill with key and vent? What’s everyone else using...?

 

[Aces]

did you use 6” or 8” cleats? 6 “ cleats $20, 8” cleats $53 6” should be fine, no? Not sure what OEM was... they are only really fender holders lol

also, what’s a good fuel fill with key and vent? What’s everyone else using...?

I have an 8 inch on my springers and a 6 in on my sterns. They were oem, i believe

 

[EZZ70]

I have an 8 inch on my springers and a 6 in on my sterns. They were oem, i believe

thx buds

 

[EZZ70]

I think you should start a go fund me for the pod.....

So, I just painted the topside today and will hopefully have it all together in 2 weeks, who wants to take the lead on the crowd/go fund me POD? Single 300/350 Zuke/Yami /Merc w/kicker as I don’t have the room for twins with the 9x24 trim tabs...

 

[EZZ70]

Finally, topside got painted yesterday and non-skid applied... all non-skid and dance floor will be painted a sand colour A day to wet sand and polish then bling goes on , rub rail has been ordered and on its way.

What a transformation from before, Ooooo the work into this tub! Anyone with an updated hatch I can use to drop-in?

 

[Fishalot]

Your workmanship is really something to behold. Thanks for bringing us along on your journey.

 

[EZZ70]

Your workmanship is really something to behold. Thanks for bringing us along on your journey.

Thx ya Journey is the perfect description! Some ups and downs for sure, and you guys stuck with me through it all...

Its not perfect by no means and needs to be debugged, literally . haha ... but a few days of touchups and, cutting and polishing it will look worthy.