23' & 26' Hourston Project Commenced...

[EZZ70]

That's actually how I built mine... And I was concerned lol..
2 pails do it easy!

2 pails of what sorry i missed something... lol

 

[Bifmalibu]

You're doing a great job Mr. Snyder! Keep at 'er.

 

[wolf]

POD POD POD

you were asking about a 21 footer on another thread just finish off that 23 thats one of the best over nighter boat going .. you already have the hardest part (finding a hull)

 

[EZZ70]

POD POD POD

you were asking about a 21 footer on another thread just finish off that 23 thats one of the best over nighter boat going .. you already have the hardest part (finding a hull)

Hey @wolf, the 23 is long gone by - by months ago I just have one boat, the 26'er...

 

[salmonkiller01]

Hermco brackets. Google them.

 

[trophywife]

no bracket!! full width POD!

 

[MadJigga]

Robert. I can’t wait for your fibreglass pod build thread!!!
Hehe

 

[salmonkiller01]

no bracket!! full width POD!

Twin engine bracket with a step. Full swim grid. No hull extension

 

[Corey_lax]

Man if you notch that transom, I am quitting this forum.

you’ve come this far and making a pod is not out of your capabilities. There’s plenty of information on THT to get your design proper and then it’s likely a matter of using your time and materials that you already have.

once you have a floating hull/blank canvas, that is when you can maybe think about selling it and let someone outfit it the way they want.

 

[EZZ70]

I am having a problem getting a good price for aluminum rub rail, anyone with a good source? I need 64 feet with rubber insert 1 3/8' x 3/4", I believe...

Bump...!

 

[EZZ70]

Robert. I can’t wait for your fibreglass pod build thread!!!
Hehe

Honestly building my own POD, It scares me ALLOT!

" this will be largely a learning experience for me. I would love to build a bracket just because I want to make one myself but the bracket is probably the most structurally stressed part on a boat (on par with the transom). In my opinion, proper engineering/design and good workmanship are very relevant when it comes to a bracket build."

"When I build mine I match the transom angle of 13 degress to the back of the bracket outboard mount and run them parallel. The swim platform top is on the same plane as the boat deck or slightly elevated at the rear aft. The bottom I have done it two different ways, one matching the center panels at the same degree and one matching the bottom vee panels at 20 degrees. It will look better and gain better flotation if the bracket matches the panels and the boat vee. It mainly depends on how wide you make it to which panels you match. If you make the floatation tub the same width as the outer second panels I would match them. If you make it more narrow I would match the bottom panels like the hermco brackets do. I also built an 20 degree rake on my tub upwards to the rear of the outboard mount side so that as the water rises it will not act as a huge trim tab. This works out to be ruffly a 2" grade up to the rear of the bracket with a 2 foot set back. Doing this will allow you to mount it lower. Most metal brackets have this built in but the fiberglass ones I have seen look to be straight back with out a grade upwards. That may cause you to mount it higher to clear the water passing by it on plane. You loose some volume with the grade but then you gain it back by lowering the mounting height so it will yield more floatation volume back. The volume value between the two styles may not yield much more lift but I like the better looks of the tapered tub and feel like it has less water drag. Setback need at least 24" with most being around 30" or more to allow the motor to go to full tilt. Biggest thing when setting it up to look at is (1) motor height (2) swim platform height & height mounted to the boat (3) How high from the bottom of the hull you will mount it. (4) setback for motor tilt. I start with those 4 factors and then figure the dimensions in between to get the over all height, tub height, tub depth, motor mount ear height, and the angles of the transom and the angle of water rise (about 1.25" for 12" of setback) to determine the other angles that are not matching the hull bottom. Width is a preference but you can gain floatation value to a point then after that it max out then more just adds weight and no lift value."

 

[Rain City]

Bump...!

Did you try CMP?

 

[ab1752]

Hermco brackets. Google them. View attachment 54583

I thought hemco closed up shop?

 

[EZZ70]

I thought hemco closed up shop?

yepp, i think so as well...

 

[ab1752]

Did you try Park Isle in Sooke for a fiberglass pod yet? I mad a half butt attempt to reach out as they may have a mould already built for a hourston 26 but ghosted so far....I think I need to go visit them once things have settled down.

 

[noluck]

a pod was the easiest thing i built for my boat, i think in total it cost $700 in aluminum, including the forming of the 1/2" plate

 

[noluck]

some more pics, just draw it out on the transom, if you send me the drawing i can have the main box formed and welded

 

[InterMechanico]

some more pics, just draw it out on the transom, if you send me the drawing i can have the main box formed and welded

You did a great job of that!
Who did your forming on the fraser valley?

Julian

 

[noluck]

You did a great job of that!
Who did your forming on the fraser valley?

Julian

i have a few people that do my forming and water jetting, just depends who has a brake available, i memory serves me correct, i think tinman broke that

 

[noluck]

that pod a had to build on the boat, the transom was not flat, so there was alot of scribing to get it all to fit nice