23' & 26' Hourston Project Commenced...

[Aces]

Getting ready to do the prep for hull/topside and bottom for paint. I have the sides sanded to 150grit and will finish with a 320grit, the bottom is being cleaned up by using paint remover. I am using Dumond SmartStrip available at Rona, I done a test and it seems to work pretty good with 2 coats, although I think PeelAway would work as well according to the reviews I found.

The water line and boot-stripe looked to be not at all where they are suppose to be so will need to confirm location down the road

I am thinking on using Interlux CSC for bottom paint as it can be hauled and relaunched without re-coating, I need something that is bunk-trailer friendly and will not peel if not in water... any opinions?

You will be happy with CSC. I get 3 seasons on it with proper prep

 

[RiverBoy]

You will be happy with CSC. I get 3 seasons on it with proper prep

what is proper prep? i’m obviously doing it wrong

 

[Aces]

what is proper prep? i’m obviously doing it wrong

A good sanding and fill....oh and not hitting any wood to start the peeling process

 

[EZZ70]

A good sanding and fill....oh and not hitting any wood to start the peeling process

Do you trailer your boat or have it out of water for extended periods? Yes, I have heard others get at least 2-3 years from one application.

 

[Buckethead905]

You will like the Micron CSC. It is ablative (self-polishing) as you probably already know, so good for on and off the trailer, you just need to be careful when you’re washing the boat not to hit the paint or it streaks off. For extended periods of time on the trailer the outer layer of CSC can oxidize, a very very light pressure wash will expose new biocide and you’re good to go, it’s awesome stuff. As aces said, with proper prep you can get 3 years out of it without a problem. A lot of people don’t apply it to a properly prepped surface and also don’t follow the manufactures recommendations on hot coating/ wet mil thickness. In your case, with all the work you’re doing, you’re going to want to finish your hull lower than the waterline with some room to spare. Once you have the boat finished, then you can load it up entirely, splash the boat and get your stern, midship, and bow lines marked to get your perfect waterline. It would kill you to do all that high quality work and have a botched waterline.

 

[Aces]

Do you trailer your boat or have it out of water for extended periods? Yes, I have heard others get at least 2-3 years from one application.

I moor for 6 months and then it sits on Screw jack stands for winter

 

[EZZ70]

You will like the Micron CSC. It is ablative (self-polishing) as you probably already know, so good for on and off the trailer, you just need to be careful when you’re washing the boat not to hit the paint or it streaks off. For extended periods of time on the trailer the outer layer of CSC can oxidize, a very very light pressure wash will expose new biocide and you’re good to go, it’s awesome stuff. As aces said, with proper prep you can get 3 years out of it without a problem. A lot of people don’t apply it to a properly prepped surface and also don’t follow the manufactures recommendations on hot coating/ wet mil thickness. In your case, with all the work you’re doing, you’re going to want to finish your hull lower than the waterline with some room to spare. Once you have the boat finished, then you can load it up entirely, splash the boat and get your stern, midship, and bow lines marked to get your perfect waterline. It would kill you to do all that high quality work and have a botched waterline.

Thx, their is a $25.00 mail-in-rebate on the CSC until May 29th, i believe so I think I will try and take advantage of that

 

[EZZ70]

Guys, you haven't lived until you hand scraped the bottom anti-foul off your hull with 3 X layers of paint remover, what a job! I am so surprised, no issues, all I found was a previous repair around the size of a loonie... just finished pressure washing and ordered the CSC paint...

 

[Buckethead905]

Rob, hold off on painting the bottom until you can mark your waterline as I’ve said before. It doesn’t matter where the line was before, it’ll be way different when you’re done with it. The pod/outboards, deck layout, fuel capacity, all play a huge role in how the boat will sit. It’s gong to look like **** if the bottom paint follows the chine up to the front of the bow. The only way to do it correctly is to finish the boat and splash it. While you’re at it, and because you’re doing everything to such a high standard, you should be applying an epoxy barrier coat such a interprotect 2000 prior to the micron CSC to protect the hull from any potential water intrusion/blistering ect, as you know gel coat is porous.

 

[EZZ70]

Rob, hold off on painting the bottom until you can mark your waterline as I’ve said before. It doesn’t matter where the line was before, it’ll be way different when you’re done with it. The pod/outboards, deck layout, fuel capacity, all play a huge role in how the boat will sit. It’s gong to look like **** if the bottom paint follows the chine up to the front of the bow. The only way to do it correctly is to finish the boat and splash it. While you’re at it, and because you’re doing everything to such a high standard, you should be applying an epoxy barrier coat such a interprotect 2000 prior to the micron CSC to protect the hull from any potential water intrusion/blistering ect, as you know gel coat is porous.

Hey thank you, I will look into this and see what exactly is involved.

By the looks of things I do not see any water intrusion/blistering from 40yrs of use thus far a few minor gelcoat chips on the chines and bow area...

If this was a brand new boat without it being previously painted I would definitely consider this system.

Q. Can I not just paint the bottom so I can put it on the trailer etc and at a latter date bring the bottom paint to where the water line will end up being with a completely rigged boat? I would like to get the majority of the bottom painted while its on blocks and finish the detailing at a later date, thoughts? @Rayvon

 

[Lucky Streak]

Waterline will be different in fresh water compared to salt water.

 

[EZZ70]

Waterline will be different in fresh water compared to salt water.

true, good point

 

[Buckethead905]

Waterline will be different in fresh water compared to salt water.

tested that theory out in Long Lake and Brennan Lake locally, sits the exact same as the salt chuck.

 

[EZZ70]

tested that theory out in Long Lake and Brennan Lake locally, sits the exact same as the salt chuck.

Interesting, I would never have thought

 

[Rayvon]

You can for sure paint the bottom and adjust where it will come up to on the sides and transom later when you float it for the first time. I haven't tried floating a boat in fresh as opposed to the salt, but I doubt there would be much difference,should be parallel at least.I agree with "Buckethead" that following the chine never looks good, so keep your paint well below where you think it will end up being.

 

[wolf]

Just paint the sides up about 4 inches and when you have boat loaded and in water at a later date you can get a felt pen mark above about 2 inchs above that in permanent marker on back side and to the front ,(on both sides of boat so the water lines are even btw. ) Once you get it home get a pin stripper come to your place and get him to pinstrip whatever color strip you want for a transition color to accent it, ignore the fish but you can see how my deatailer did a solid blue then a light blue then a silver , then ask him to leave the clear tape on it so all you do then is paint the bottom paint up and on to the pinstripe once its almost dry you peel off the clear covering and you have a perfect line of bottom paint and pinstrip...


Good luck bud

 

[wolf]

 

[Rayvon]

^^^ Agree,I like to see 1 1/2"- 2" of bottom paint above water line when fully loaded.It actually makes a big difference to how the boat looks when it's sitting level on the water.You can do the boot top yourself if you have enough marks to go by and have a steady hand. Are you planning on finishing the boat now? Otherwise you'll have to make an educated guess as to where the boot top will end up.

 

[EZZ70]

Thank you, I am not sure as to the sequence of paint...?

I will be using Interlux Epoxy PrimeKote, not Polyurethane PreKote. I am wondering if I can paint all the side from rub-rails to the outside chine edge? Then, when the boat is loaded I can bring the bottom paint up and overlap the TopSide paint by 1 1/2-2" above the true water line and boot-stripe above that, so the bottom paint will be overlapping the topside paint by 1 1/2-2", if you know what I mean. Can I do this?

^^^ Agree,I like to see 1 1/2"- 2" of bottom paint above water line when fully loaded.It actually makes a big difference to how the boat looks when it's sitting level on the water.You can do the boot top yourself if you have enough marks to go by and have a steady hand. Are you planning on finishing the boat now? Otherwise you'll have to make an educated guess as to where the boot top will end up.

 

[Rayvon]

Yes,but go below the chine at the front,as you can see on Roy's boat,yours will probably be lower w/ pod/outboards.I would paint the rubrail down first,well below where you think the waterline will be.You can always sand and bottom paint higher as needed but not the other way round.