23' & 26' Hourston Project Commenced...
EZZ70
Well-Known Member
Hey,
If you own a fibreglass boat chances are sooner or later you will have to face a repair of some sort weather it be a chip, scratch, crack, delamination, hole in-fill or perhaps a full on restore project or projects much like I have done, which then, you will be faced with both cosmetic and structural challenges and decisions.
As I researched "what to do" and "when to do it" I have found many many conflicting opinions and methods, the biggest of all question was, What resin do I use? I have found that, like any topic, ppl will argue pro's and con's just for the sake of arguing, which can be frustrating to say the least. By reading thread after thread I just became more confused and doubtful that I could ever be confidant enough to get started on this massive undertaking, so as the days and weeks of research went on I decided to re-focus research specifically on successful individuals in the fibreglass business and what they had to say. Here is my findings...
TO GET SATRTED:
Q. Regardeless of the repair the question more often than not is, which type of resin do I use polyester, vinylester or epoxy?
A. The most "COMMON" repair will be made with polyester resin
With that being said, there is no "one resin fits all". each resin has its own properties and application for its intended use, several other factors must be considered such as, is it above or below water line, is it structural or cosmetic, what will be your finish material (paint or gelcoat or non), what materials (fibreglass cloth) will you be using and on what materials will it be applied/bonded to (existing polyester, vinylester or epoxy), just to mention a few determining factors for making your decision selection.
The advise that I received was, "not all resins are manufactured of equal quality" automotive differs from marine resin so when selecting a retailer please insure that it is one that has a high turnover of product because resin does have a recommended shelf life. Some resins have a longer shelf life than others but regardless, something to be aware of. You don't want to purchase expired resin as the chemical properties will have changed resulting in less than expected material performance or failure.
As the days and weeks go by I will try and keep adding to this topic in hopes that I can help individuals make the correct resin selection and/or at the very least provide me with another task, just what I needed! LOL
Thank you
Rob S
If you own a fibreglass boat chances are sooner or later you will have to face a repair of some sort weather it be a chip, scratch, crack, delamination, hole in-fill or perhaps a full on restore project or projects much like I have done, which then, you will be faced with both cosmetic and structural challenges and decisions.
As I researched "what to do" and "when to do it" I have found many many conflicting opinions and methods, the biggest of all question was, What resin do I use? I have found that, like any topic, ppl will argue pro's and con's just for the sake of arguing, which can be frustrating to say the least. By reading thread after thread I just became more confused and doubtful that I could ever be confidant enough to get started on this massive undertaking, so as the days and weeks of research went on I decided to re-focus research specifically on successful individuals in the fibreglass business and what they had to say. Here is my findings...
TO GET SATRTED:
Q. Regardeless of the repair the question more often than not is, which type of resin do I use polyester, vinylester or epoxy?
A. The most "COMMON" repair will be made with polyester resin
With that being said, there is no "one resin fits all". each resin has its own properties and application for its intended use, several other factors must be considered such as, is it above or below water line, is it structural or cosmetic, what will be your finish material (paint or gelcoat or non), what materials (fibreglass cloth) will you be using and on what materials will it be applied/bonded to (existing polyester, vinylester or epoxy), just to mention a few determining factors for making your decision selection.
The advise that I received was, "not all resins are manufactured of equal quality" automotive differs from marine resin so when selecting a retailer please insure that it is one that has a high turnover of product because resin does have a recommended shelf life. Some resins have a longer shelf life than others but regardless, something to be aware of. You don't want to purchase expired resin as the chemical properties will have changed resulting in less than expected material performance or failure.
As the days and weeks go by I will try and keep adding to this topic in hopes that I can help individuals make the correct resin selection and/or at the very least provide me with another task, just what I needed! LOL
Thank you
Rob S
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Rain City
Crew Member
So if you're offering up the help I'll ask, for cosmetic holes (+-1/8") above the waterline in smooth visible areas what would your whole process involve? Could the filling be done to a point where someone else could do all the gel coat repairs after the fact? I'd like to fill a bunch of holes the previous idiot owner put around the boat adding junk solar lights and cheap rusted tool holders.
EZZ70
Well-Known Member
Hey Rain City, filling small holes from previous attachments is the most common repair, you don't need many tools or materials but are aesthetically satisfying when complete.
To answer your question, I would recommend, without having any fill material in the holes already, drill out the hole to the next biggest size thus removing any dirt and grim and exposing fresh material (wood/fibreglass) for the in-fill to bond to. If these holes are purely cosmetic go ahead and fill with a polyester based filler, try and squeeze/push as much as possible to fill the entire cavity to avoid bleed through or halo down the road. If the drilled hole goes all the way through to the other side I would place duct tape on the other side to create a stop for the filling material. After the hole/holes are filled and cured you can sand, I would suggest giving it a quick fairing to ensure all pin holes are filled then make paint ready, then apply gelcoat or paint. Make sure you clean the surface prior to applying the infill, gelcoat or paint with acetone or another cleaning agent to remove impurities that may affect final quality of finish....
I think I covered a bit of this process in one of my YouTube videos
I used thickened epoxy as my filler as I will be painting and not gel coating.Thank you
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ChilliSpoons
Well-Known Member
I love this thread but maybe there needs to be a separate thread covering fibreglass repairs???
EZZ70
Well-Known Member
DONE! This topic has moved please continue discussion and questions here ----> https://www.sportfishingbc.com/forum/index.php?threads/fibreglass-repairs-101.80406/
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How did they secure the Cabin walls to the Boat Hull and how did the secre the Cabin Roof to the Cabin Walls? Thanks
ChilliSpoons
Well-Known Member
Even though that wood looks to be in pretty rough shape it looks good enough to copy for new measurements
EZZ70
Well-Known Member
To be totally honest, I have no idea, these items were missing when I bought it...
My plan is to secure to sides via fibreglass tabbing as well as the underside of roof. Things may change as I go but that is my initial thought...
EZZ70
Well-Known Member
Guys, what's your thoughts?
I am seriously considering deleting the OEM windshield and making fibreglass sides and front to receive custom windows. If I do this I will increase height to have 5'8" head room while standing at helm which will increase the step down height to about 6'8".
I think the height from floor to roof @ helm or table is around 5'2" - 5'4", can someone pls confirm? Thank you
I am seriously considering deleting the OEM windshield and making fibreglass sides and front to receive custom windows. If I do this I will increase height to have 5'8" head room while standing at helm which will increase the step down height to about 6'8".
I think the height from floor to roof @ helm or table is around 5'2" - 5'4", can someone pls confirm? Thank you
MadJigga
Well-Known Member
How tall are you again?
EZZ70
Well-Known Member
5’8”
MadJigga
Well-Known Member
Scrap the oem windows is my vote. With all the time, money and effort your putting into your build, I’d personally hate to have to crouch and have a regret like that.
tubber
Well-Known Member
View attachment 51638 View attachment 51637 View attachment 51637 View attachment 51638 Could you move the repaired roof forward and higher, then make the windows slant forward? Build a plywood house then cut out the window holes later, then glass.That's what they did with the little 80' glass boat.
EZZ70
Well-Known Member
I think the height from floor to roof @ helm or table is around 5'2" - 5'4", can someone pls confirm? Thank you
casper5280
Crew Member
Got to be more then that. I’m 6’2” and can stand inside no problem. Could measure tonight when I get home
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