23' & 26' Hourston Project Commenced...

What to do?

  • Try and keep the boat and complete the project.

    Votes: 71 71.0%
  • Sell the boat in current hot market.

    Votes: 8 8.0%
  • Notch the transom for outboard.

    Votes: 5 5.0%
  • Add extension bracket for outboard.

    Votes: 57 57.0%
  • Install twin outboards.

    Votes: 42 42.0%
  • Install single outboard.

    Votes: 27 27.0%
  • Add command bridge.

    Votes: 15 15.0%
  • Remove command bridge.

    Votes: 42 42.0%
  • Accept "crowd funding"

    Votes: 29 29.0%
  • Do not accept "crowd funding"

    Votes: 16 16.0%

  • Total voters
    100
That boat is long gone of outfitters was sold id say about 10 plus years ago.
I cant figure out how to put a video up of my testing of my engine for you so when you get a chance Robert text me my number is 250-704-9653 as its on my phone and you will see my boat get up on plane in about 15 feet

Yes, I know the boat is gone. But the knowledge lives on with the folks at Island Outfitters. Rob doesn't need another 26 - just the knowledge :cool:
 
After exhaustively researching kickers, the 20hp Tohatsu was recommended to me. Battery-less EFI and 12 Amps at the same weight as a 9.9. They make many Mercs and most of the parts are interchangeable. This also means there are many options for service locations.

X2 on the EFI tohatsu
 
2 x valves and anti-siphons... done!

IMG_8794.jpeg
 
What did you use on threads? Looks kind of crusty when it comes to sealant more is not always better

Are you planning on adding a grounding wire to the tank or are you going to rely on the ground thought the fuel sender screws?

I think it’s bad practice to mix brass with aluminum. You might not be able to avoid it with valves but I would put aluminum plugs in instead of brass

As per ABYC
24.18.1.4 TIle copper-base alloys normally used for fuel fittings and lines are considered acceptable for direct coupling with all filel tank materials listed in Table IV, except aluminum Copper-base alloy components shall be separated from contact with aluminum tanks or fitting plates by means of a galvanic barrier such as 300 series stainless steel or galvanized steel. Fastenings used to couple fittings such as fuel senders to aluminum tanks shall be of 300 series stainless steel or equivalent in
 
What did you use on threads? Looks kind of crusty when it comes to sealant more is not always better

Are you planning on adding a grounding wire to the tank or are you going to rely on the ground thought the fuel sender screws?

I think it’s bad practice to mix brass with aluminum. You might not be able to avoid it with valves but I would put aluminum plugs in instead of brass

As per ABYC
24.18.1.4 TIle copper-base alloys normally used for fuel fittings and lines are considered acceptable for direct coupling with all filel tank materials listed in Table IV, except aluminum Copper-base alloy components shall be separated from contact with aluminum tanks or fitting plates by means of a galvanic barrier such as 300 series stainless steel or galvanized steel. Fastenings used to couple fittings such as fuel senders to aluminum tanks shall be of 300 series stainless steel or equivalent in


All good stuff thank you...
 
i like to have a tab on the tank to ground too, as well as the sending unit and fuel filler, then to ground bus
 
It is the standard all the new tin boat builds ive seen have them installed the boats that have passed thru my shop where my buddy does all the rigging I asked him this am, Like i said earlier i really dont give a , I had to do it as per survey and per DOT rules phone them they will know im more then sure. im just a guy who did what was told to make my boat compliant....and made my insurance company happy

been awhile since I had a survey and inspection done for commercial guiding vessel, but last one I had there was no mention of a fuel shut off at the tank. Now I understand the inspection for CV is a self filled form as well. Going to have to go through the process with a 20’ Hourston, hope it’s the same or I’m cutting up the floor...
 
Hey looking for a price check on a 2017 Verado 250hp with 1000hrs for a buddy of mine, its fully rigged w/steering and SS prop, all numbers are good on mechanical inspection. any ideas?
 
Got the roof sanded down, ready ti infill holes and apply fairing...

Looking for opinions, do I keep cabin as a long sedan of 8'7" or cut it down and turn into the shorter version of 6'10"? Now is the time that I must decide...humm???

IMG_9028.jpeg
 
This is a 26' with bridge, I think the look is hard to beat :)
20190920_172323_HDR-1024x768-e1576674255922.jpg
 
Does anyone have an archive photo of a 26' short cabin w/command bridge by change, I understand they made two models 26' long and 26' short... thank you
 
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