I will keep a tourniquet on board instead. Cheaper.Looks good Steve. A lot of sharp edges though! Some kind of upholstered cover for the base would be pretty cool
I've got the same prop.. honestly didn't really notice much difference from the stock Yamaha aluminium prop. Let me know that you think.View attachment 64200
New SDS prop to replace 13 year old SS XL that was beat up.
I went down 2 degrees of pitch to 17 XL. Boat is on stilts while trailer gets fixed, excited to test it out. Does the SDS hub really reduce the clunks putting into and out of gear?
Curious how the shockwave base is mounted? Are those like a lag screw/bolt? You can’t access under the floor for nuts I assume. Did you just kinda guess as to where to run them through? Did you hit a stringer or just the floor itself is sufficient? I have a similar floor and like what you’ve done there. Always scared of putting holes in my boat tho.I will keep a tourniquet on board instead. Cheaper.
Thickest Lag screws possible screwed into the plywood and sika flex.Curious how the shockwave base is mounted? Are those like a lag screw/bolt? You can’t access under the floor for nuts I assume. Did you just kinda guess as to where to run them through? Did you hit a stringer or just the floor itself is sufficient? I have a similar floor and like what you’ve done there. Always scared of putting holes in my boat tho.
I got a SWS II with the SDS hub for my F300 and it spanked the factory prop I bought the boat with. It is now my close-second spare after a round of musical props that ended with a four blade recommended by a member of this site. I find the advantages of this hub to be as good as advertised.I've got the same prop.. honestly didn't really notice much difference from the stock Yamaha aluminium prop. Let me know that you think.
I marked the holes cut a 4 inch hole reached in and used 1/4 inch plate aluminum backer as big washers placed the bolts sticking up through the floor using elastic bands bolt to bolt so they won’t fall back through. Placed bracket bolted on. The 4 inch Circle from the holesaw could easily be re epoxied in. Admittedly it was a real pain in the buttThickest Lag screws possible screwed into the plywood and sika flex.
Nice! I have no concerns about this ever coming out. It’s a sturdy base.I marked the holes cut a 4 inch hole reached in and used 1/4 inch plate aluminum backer as big washers placed the bolts sticking up through the floor using elastic bands bolt to bolt so they won’t fall back through. Placed bracket bolted on. The 4 inch Circle from the holesaw could easily be re epoxied in. Admittedly it was a real pain in the butt
I meant more the sound with shifting, maybe the other one was just as quiet.. haven't owned many boats. As far as stats, I went from a 19p aluminium with a WOT of ~5600rpm, 30mph cruise at 4000 rpm. With a 17p stainless, cruise at 4000rpm went down to 26mph and WOT achieved almost 6000 but a couple mph slower.I got a SWS II with the SDS hub for my F300 and it spanked the factory prop I bought the boat with. It is now my close-second spare after a round of musical props that ended with a four blade recommended by a member of this site. I find the advantages of this hub to be as good as advertised.
Ok Steve you’ve convinced me I’ll buy it back. Hmmm same price?The seat swivels and locks as wellView attachment 64209
I’m sure I’lll have to lower it a bit. After all it’s depreciated almost another year.Ok Steve you’ve convinced me I’ll buy it back. Hmmm same price?
Your original 19P prop seems like a good match to your boat and motor. Going down to a 17P stainless 3-blade prop would just increase revs relative to speed as you have found. A stainless 4-blade 17P might be a better fit.I meant more the sound with shifting, maybe the other one was just as quiet.. haven't owned many boats. As far as stats, I went from a 19p aluminium with a WOT of ~5600rpm, 30mph cruise at 4000 rpm. With a 17p stainless, cruise at 4000rpm went down to 26mph and WOT achieved almost 6000 but a couple mph slower.
I kind of took a leap of faith a just bought it, as the Yamaha shops around here didn't seem to interested in letting me trying props out without buying it. I'd like to try a 4 bladeYour original 19P prop seems like a good match to your boat and motor. Going down to a 17P stainless 3-blade prop would just increase revs relative to speed as you have found. A stainless 4-blade 17P might be a better fit.
You could always watch the buy and sell sites for a suitable 4-blade stainless. This is how I acquired several of the props I tried. That way you don’t take a big hit when a new one doesn’t work out and you have to sell it.I kind of took a leap of faith a just bought it, as the Yamaha shops around here didn't seem to interested in letting me trying props out without buying it. I'd like to try a 4 blade
Helm completed ( was a bugger reaching in there to tighten lines on, couldnt so before as not enough angle of the dangle) and purged , just need to put line protectors onAttached the Seastar cylinder on the old 200 and got all the holes drilled and fitted for the helm. Doing it solo and I'm old so it took me 7 hours (got the old stuff off to) , so the mounting of the helm and hose and purge scheduled for next week