What Did You Do To Your Boat This Week?

[Max123]

Tried to change the VST fuel filter on my etec. Should have been easy - cut off Oetiker clamp on fuel return line at VST/Pump assembly, remove hose, replace filter, done. Watched a Youtube video, got the parts diagram off Crowley...

Nope, somehow my Etec has completely different pump/VST assembly that isn't listed in the parts diagram. The supply and return lines are flipped, so that the return is on the back of the Pump/VST assembly. Its positioned far enough back that the supply line is in the way and I can't get pliers in there to cut off the clamp or there's no way to get the climps pliers in there to reinstall. Looks like the entire Pump/ VST assembly needs to be removed to access.

Anyway, after messing around with it for an hour on sunday morning at the Marina I gave up and decided to go boating.

 

[kaelc]

I've never seen nylok nuts double nutted! What's the purpose of that? (on the centre stud)

I'll ask he who must not be named and get back to you!

 

[kaelc]

Is it powder coated steel?

I believe so, thanks for the reminder I need to give the bolts a spray! I wouldn't recommend them for moored boats, but for ones that get a saltwater bath and are kept in a driveway, they seem to hold up well.

 

[Rayvon]

I removed my main and kicker brackets and replaced with a hull extension pod w/swim grid. The boat didn't perform well at all and porpoised with the factory bracket. Bohn sheet metal in Sooke built the pod.I decided against powdercoating because I've seen so many degrade over time.I had it sand blasted and then I coated it with 3 coats of epoxy,2 coats of black bottom paint and 2 coats of polyurethane (white). I went with a wider than usual pod (36") to get my scuppers higher so they would drain properly. I was running it with 80 Lbs. of lead up front to stop the porpoising,but with it removed now it sits right on my bottom paint top.It used to sit at the top of my boot top before pod. It was too rough to give it a good test today ,but she rides better and after I dial in engine height and add more prop pitch it should be good.Looking forward to less boat work and more fishing .

 

[MRWood]

I removed my main and kicker brackets and replaced with a hull extension pod w/swim grid. The boat didn't perform well at all and porpoised with the factory bracket. Bohn sheet metal in Sooke built the pod.I decided against powdercoating because I've seen so many degrade over time.I had it sand blasted and then I coated it with 3 coats of epoxy,2 coats of black bottom paint and 2 coats of polyurethane (white). I went with a wider than usual pod (36") to get my scuppers higher so they would drain properly. I was running it with 80 Lbs. of lead up front to stop the porpoising,but with it removed now it sits right on my bottom paint top.It used to sit at the top of my boot top before pod. It was too rough to give it a good test today ,but she rides better and after I dial in engine height and add more prop pitch it should be good.Looking forward to less boat work and more fishing .
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Looks awesome, great job. It looks to be sitting perfectly. It should ride a lot better now.

 

[islandboy]

Glassed the inside, attached the bulkheads and deck supports. If this wind doesn't let up I'll be finished in September. 🌬🌬

 

[Stizzla]

Glassed the inside, attached the bulkheads and deck supports. If this wind doesn't let up I'll be finished in September. 🌬🌬

work of art!

 

[kaelc]

I removed my main and kicker brackets and replaced with a hull extension pod w/swim grid. The boat didn't perform well at all and porpoised with the factory bracket. Bohn sheet metal in Sooke built the pod.I decided against powdercoating because I've seen so many degrade over time.I had it sand blasted and then I coated it with 3 coats of epoxy,2 coats of black bottom paint and 2 coats of polyurethane (white). I went with a wider than usual pod (36") to get my scuppers higher so they would drain properly. I was running it with 80 Lbs. of lead up front to stop the porpoising,but with it removed now it sits right on my bottom paint top.It used to sit at the top of my boot top before pod. It was too rough to give it a good test today ,but she rides better and after I dial in engine height and add more prop pitch it should be good.Looking forward to less boat work and more fishing .
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Looks great! I’m envious of the dialled in Sea Sport owners who have the outboard right power. Be interesting to know your top speed, cruise and “chop”/rough stuff speed. Looks like the perfect package.

 

[Prfisher]

So jealous !!

im thinking of adding brakes to my single axle trailer too. How much did it cost

So jealous !!

im thinking of adding brakes to my single axle trailer too. How much did it cost you in all ?

Sorry to take so long with the reply, Jack. Once I priced out all that I would have to replace & upgrade, I finally decided to just buy a new (much heavier duty) trailer.
There is a decent disc /surge brake kit available on Amazon for under $1400. I priced the same kit locally but it was hundreds more.
The new trailer has Kodiak brakes, which retail for around $3,000.

 

[Prfisher]

Removed my fuel injectors and shipped them off for cleaning/diagnosis. Lost power on #3 cylinder, compression good, spark and injector signal good. This boat has two separate 10 micron fuel filters on board, but this is the second blocked injector in 180 hours. Might be I need to replace high pressure side fuel hoses.

I had a similar issue with my low time Suzuki 140A. Ran fine to 4500 rpm & crapped out before it hit 5,000. Shakes & obvious miss.
Pulled the plugs & the #3 porcelain & electrode was white. The other three a very light tan colour. Had the local dealer clean the injectors & it’s back to normal now.
Though my fuel has always been pristine (large fuel filter, changed every other year, minimum mid-grade, no ethanol) I believe the problem stemmed from having a big tank that I keep almost full, all the time. I don’t run the main more than 40 minutes a day when fishing locally, so there’s a lot of fuel that is getting old, mixed with the new. I’m definitely gonna start using injector cleaner in the future. Any recommendations on which cleaner is best for this situation? The Lucas product looks promising, to me.
Luckily, it was a cheap fix & the boat’s ready for when the grandkids arrive from Prince George next week. WHEW!

 

[RevyG]

 

[sly_karma]

I had a similar issue with my low time Suzuki 140A. Ran fine to 4500 rpm & crapped out before it hit 5,000. Shakes & obvious miss.
Pulled the plugs & the #3 porcelain & electrode was white. The other three a very light tan colour. Had the local dealer clean the injectors & it’s back to normal now.
Though my fuel has always been pristine (large fuel filter, changed every other year, minimum mid-grade, no ethanol) I believe the problem stemmed from having a big tank that I keep almost full, all the time. I don’t run the main more than 40 minutes a day when fishing locally, so there’s a lot of fuel that is getting old, mixed with the new. I’m definitely gonna start using injector cleaner in the future. Any recommendations on which cleaner is best for this situation? The Lucas product looks promising, to me.
Luckily, it was a cheap fix & the boat’s ready for when the grandkids arrive from Prince George next week. WHEW!

The injector wasn't blocked; report said it wasn't building pressure and had to be replaced. The other three were quite clean (as they should be, cleaned 200 hrs earlier). This was not a cheap fix at $700 plus some very stiff taxes to get them back into Canada (3 out of 4 were used items and already my property!), but at least it's simple bolt on/plug in work for me at this end. When you lose a cylinder on a two stroke, you think the worst - at least until you can test compression.

 

[Max123]

The injector wasn't blocked; report said it wasn't building pressure and had to be replaced. The other three were quite clean (as they should be, cleaned 200 hrs earlier). This was not a cheap fix at $700 plus some very stiff taxes to get them back into Canada (3 out of 4 were used items and already my property!), but at least it's simple bolt on/plug in work for me at this end. When you lose a cylinder on a two stroke, you think the worst - at least until you can test compression.

Just an FYI, doesn't the new injector need to be coded with the .dat file for that specific injector. I've read its not just plug and play, needs some setup with the software.

Injector Coefficient Database Instructions [356425] | Crowley Marine

www.crowleymarine.com

 

[sly_karma]

Just an FYI, doesn't the new injector need to be coded with the .dat file for that specific injector. I've read its not just plug and play, needs some setup with the software.

Injector Coefficient Database Instructions [356425] | Crowley Marine

www.crowleymarine.com

Yes, but it's pretty straightforward. Helps that I'm used to old software and hardware interfaces from tinkering around with race timing gadgets all these years.

I was a bit apprehensive about the Etec when I first got it, my first modern outboard. Computerized everything, direct injection when all I'd ever had was carburetors. But once I downloaded a service manual and connected the engine to the EVDiag software, I was impressed by the wealth of information and diagnostic tools available. Following the sequence of tests in the manual, some with a multi meter, some via the software, it took me less than an hour to confirm that #3 fuel injector was not providing fuel and needed to go to a specialist. Not a guess, didn't spend $700 on a hunch, the tests eliminated everything else.

For this amateur mechanic at least, Etec is easier to work on than the earlier two strokes I've had. Those engines need lots of subjective assessments for diagnosis: what do the plugs look like? What does it sound like off idle? Is that butterfly opening a hair sooner than the other three? Us occasional wrench pullers don't have enough experience to be attuned to this stuff, we don't know what's normal or not normal. But the digital engines tell you when there's a problem, and provide tests that isolate it to a specific source. That's a lot better for a part timer like me.

 

[Max123]

Yes, but it's pretty straightforward. Helps that I'm used to old software and hardware interfaces from tinkering around with race timing gadgets all these years.

I was a bit apprehensive about the Etec when I first got it, my first modern outboard. Computerized everything, direct injection when all I'd ever had was carburetors. But once I downloaded a service manual and connected the engine to the EVDiag software, I was impressed by the wealth of information and diagnostic tools available. Following the sequence of tests in the manual, some with a multi meter, some via the software, it took me less than an hour to confirm that #3 fuel injector was not providing fuel and needed to go to a specialist. Not a guess, didn't spend $700 on a hunch, the tests eliminated everything else.

For this amateur mechanic at least, Etec is easier to work on than the earlier two strokes I've had. Those engines need lots of subjective assessments for diagnosis: what do the plugs look like? What does it sound like off idle? Is that butterfly opening a hair sooner than the other three? Us occasional wrench pullers don't have enough experience to be attuned to this stuff, we don't know what's normal or not normal. But the digital engines tell you when there's a problem, and provide tests that isolate it to a specific source. That's a lot better for a part timer like me.

Nice!

 

[sly_karma]

Tried to change the VST fuel filter on my etec. Should have been easy - cut off Oetiker clamp on fuel return line at VST/Pump assembly, remove hose, replace filter, done. Watched a Youtube video, got the parts diagram off Crowley...

Nope, somehow my Etec has completely different pump/VST assembly that isn't listed in the parts diagram. The supply and return lines are flipped, so that the return is on the back of the Pump/VST assembly. Its positioned far enough back that the supply line is in the way and I can't get pliers in there to cut off the clamp or there's no way to get the climps pliers in there to reinstall. Looks like the entire Pump/ VST assembly needs to be removed to access.

Anyway, after messing around with it for an hour on sunday morning at the Marina I gave up and decided to go boating.

Sounds like you have the newer Walbro VST with internal HP fuel pump. The original Carter ones ran OK... until they didn't. But the little filter on the VST is easy to get at - provided, of course, that you know it exists at all, and how to find it.

Everything I've read says the Walbro is an improvement, but as you found out, online parts diagrams don't align with your new reality.

 

[Max123]

Sounds like you have the newer Walbro VST with internal HP fuel pump. The original Carter ones ran OK... until they didn't. But the little filter on the VST is easy to get at - provided, of course, that you know it exists at all, and how to find it.

Everything I've read says the Walbro is an improvement, but as you found out, online parts diagrams don't align with your new reality.

Thanks - it was just a huge annoyance. The return line (with filter) was behind the supply line so you can't get a set of pliers in to cleanly cut off the clamp or attach a new one. The factory oetikers were pinched from below, which means I have to take the muffler/resonator off to do it the same way.

I googled the part number for the new VST Fuel pump assembly and got the diagram - at least its the same filter part#. When I get some time I'll do it with a screw type fuel injection hose clamp.

 

[trophywife]

out with the 1200 $ Planar, in with the 250$ vevor.

 

[salmonkiller01]

out with the 1200 $ Planar, in with the 250$ vevor.

I did the same with my planer. Bought the cheapest one off amazon and it has been flawless for 2 years. The fuel pump looks like hell on the outside due to moisture and salt water where it is located so i have a spare. All of $15 bucks.

 

[salmonkiller01]

I removed my main and kicker brackets and replaced with a hull extension pod w/swim grid. The boat didn't perform well at all and porpoised with the factory bracket. Bohn sheet metal in Sooke built the pod.I decided against powdercoating because I've seen so many degrade over time.I had it sand blasted and then I coated it with 3 coats of epoxy,2 coats of black bottom paint and 2 coats of polyurethane (white). I went with a wider than usual pod (36") to get my scuppers higher so they would drain properly. I was running it with 80 Lbs. of lead up front to stop the porpoising,but with it removed now it sits right on my bottom paint top.It used to sit at the top of my boot top before pod. It was too rough to give it a good test today ,but she rides better and after I dial in engine height and add more prop pitch it should be good.Looking forward to less boat work and more fishing .
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How does ity run now? Your happy with it?