What causes a cone clutch to glaze prematurely?

Rain City

Crew Member
I've only got 150 at most on my brand new drive and the clutch is toast. What might cause this? I'm hyper aware of not taking it in or out of gear at higher rpms and I also don't troll on my mains. How the hell is this possible?
 
Do these things burn out easily if you hammer them out of the hole, like a coupler in an alpha 1 drive?

Surely this will be under warranty...VP should be 2 years for parts installed and supplied by an VP AD.
 
Do these things burn out easily if you hammer them out of the hole, like a coupler in an alpha 1 drive?

Surely this will be under warranty...VP should be 2 years for parts installed and supplied by an VP AD.
It's been 20 months so I'm hoping it's under warranty. I'd still like to understand why it would happen though. I baby the damn thing.
 
I've only got 150 at most on my brand new drive and the clutch is toast. What might cause this? I'm hyper aware of not taking it in or out of gear at higher rpms and I also don't troll on my mains. How the hell is this possible?
Sounds like the didnt assemble it right I know the shimming part of DP drives is very fussy I have NEVER had a cone clutch go? this is very weird...
 
Sounds like the didnt assemble it right I know the shimming part of DP drives is very fussy I have NEVER had a cone clutch go? this is very weird...
I've had two glaze on me in the past but wasn't sure if they were ever done prior to that. I think the previous owner used to troll on the mains a lot which apparently can cause it to happen faster. This one was new new. Do they need to be shimmed when a drive shows up new from factory?
 
I had one go on my bravo 3 x drive with a merc gas engine with 150 hours on the entire package. No idea what caused it. I babied it.
 
I had one go on my bravo 3 x drive with a merc gas engine with 150 hours on the entire package. No idea what caused it. I babied it.
Brutal. Has to be an initial misalignment thing or shimming issue. Only thing that makes sense
 
Shift cable out of adjustment?
I’m a member of Merc FB page, and I think I’ve read about this on there. Bravo drives use a cone clutch too.
Hopefully you can get some warranty. Drives these days are shockingly expensive.
 
Im pretty sure you can shim the shift shoe to ride further into the cone. Possible that it was out too far and it was riding on the fence of having positive friction and with a little bit of heat caused it to glaze. I do know that you cant just put any gear oil i those machines.
 
Hopefully you'll be covered under warranty, and hopefully the 150 hours running has saved you about $10,000 over gasoline outboards.

In the meantime, this is one of my favourite additions to the outdrives... Recommended. Real time temp for the outdrive is very helpful in monitoring and being pro-active for conditions.

 
Are you keeping track of your hours and changing the gear oil?
I bring it into the shop twice a year and they do my maintenance based on the hours. I never say no to anything and don't haggle on price.
 
Hopefully you'll be covered under warranty, and hopefully the 150 hours running has saved you about $10,000 over gasoline outboards.

In the meantime, this is one of my favourite additions to the outdrives... Recommended. Real time temp for the outdrive is very helpful in monitoring and being pro-active for conditions.

I was hoping to limp along for a couple seasons without any upgrades.
 
I bring it into the shop twice a year and they do my maintenance based on the hours. I never say no to anything and don't haggle on price.

Should be no problem then getting it fixed under warranty you'd think. It's probly the actuator housing assembly
 
Well then hopefully it's warranty and hopefully you are due for a service / bottom cleaning anyways so that the lift and yard time is a wash... :)
Unfortunately not. I wasn't scheduled to go until spring. Bottom is mint. Zincs are mint.
 
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