Using AI to expand my skillset for Halibut fishing - is this advice good?

[Grant_J]

I'm entering my fourth year of ocean fishing - I've now got a good level of comfort with using my downriggers for salmon fishing and last year had decent success with Coho and Chinook. Now I want to branch out into halibut fishing. I use ChatGPT a fair bit and know how powerful it can be, so I thought why not try it for halibut fishing? I'm hoping it can be like having a seasoned grandfather who has decades of experience. Of course, like any grandfather sometimes they have crazy our outdated ideas that aren't the best, and AI can spit out incorrect or incomplete feedback. So I was hoping the seasoned halibut fishers here can chime in on the advice it's given me. I told Chat about my boat (Arima 17' Sea Chaser), gave it pictures of the bow anchor roller and told it that I need to expand both my boat equipment and fishing gear to properly anchor in the deep for halibut fishing, plus I need to learn the proper techniques to safely anchor. Here's what it gave me:

Halibut Fishing with Your Arima Sea Chaser: A Beginner's Guide​

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1. Anchor: Use a 15-20 lb Bruce or Danforth anchor.
2. Anchor Line (Rope): Use at least 600-800 feet of strong nylon rope (3/8” thick).
3. Anchor Chain: Attach 6-10 feet of galvanized chain between the anchor and the rope.
4. Anchor Retrieval Buoy: A big, bright 11-15 inch floating ball with a metal ring (slip ring) and a snap shackle or carabiner to connect it to the anchor line.
5. Rod and Reel: Heavy-duty setup with an 80-150 lb braided line and a strong conventional reel.
6. Bait: Use herring, salmon belly, squid, or octopus.

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1. Find Your Spot: Use your fish finder or sonar to find a good halibut spot (sandy or gravel bottom, about 200-300 feet deep).
2. Approach the Spot: Point your bow into the current or wind.
3. Prepare the Anchor Line:
   
   • Before lowering the anchor, attach the retrieval buoy to the anchor line:
     
     • Slip the metal ring of the buoy onto the rope.
     • Attach the carabiner or snap shackle to secure the ring to the line.
     • Make sure the buoy can slide freely along the line.
4. Drop the Anchor:
   
   • Lower the anchor slowly from the bow roller and let it sink to the bottom.
   • Let out plenty of rope, aiming for a 4:1 to 5:1 scope ratio (about 800-1,200 feet for 300 feet of depth).
   • Once it hits the bottom, reverse the boat slowly to help the anchor set.
   • Secure the Line: Tie off the line to your bow cleat once the anchor is holding firm.

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1. Rig Your Rod: Use a spread leader rig with 16-32 oz weights to keep your bait on the bottom.
2. Drop Your Line: Lower your bait to the bottom and make sure it stays there.
3. Wait for Bites: Stay alert for subtle bites, as halibut can nibble before committing.

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Problem to Avoid:​

If you drive forward from the bow cleat, the line can drag under your boat and get caught on your propeller or hull.

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1. Move the Anchor Line to the Side Cleat:
   
   • Before you start moving forward, untie the anchor line from the bow cleat.
   • Walk the line along the side of the boat to a side cleat near the stern.
   • Tie it off there.
2. Motor Forward Slowly:
   
   • Move the boat in the same direction the anchor was set.
   • The buoy will slide down the line and pull the anchor up.
   • Keep moving forward slowly until the anchor is fully lifted and floating at the surface.
3. Pull In the Line:
   
   • Once the anchor is at the surface, pull in the rest of the rope by hand.
   • Secure the anchor back on the bow roller and lock it down with the pin.

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1. Trim Up the Motor: Lift your motor slightly while moving forward to reduce the risk of catching the line.
2. Maintain a Straight Path: Avoid sharp turns when pulling the anchor to prevent the line from crossing under the hull.
3. Have a Knife Handy: Be prepared to cut the line if the anchor gets snagged or stuck, to ensure your safety.

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By attaching the buoy to the line before dropping the anchor, you’re prepared for an easy retrieval later. Moving the line to a side cleat before pulling the anchor ensures that the line doesn’t go under your boat, which can be dangerous. The buoy itself does the heavy lifting, making the process easier and safer.

 

[Dogbreath]

If it puts your minds to rest AI stole that advice right off this site-it's been posted many times here.

One thing I question is investing all that money in ground tackle for what amounts to squib-sized fish but that's your call; there's also an argument that drifting/bottom bouncing is easier/cheaper and just as productive.

 

[CIVANO]

• Before you start moving forward, untie the anchor line from the bow cleat.
• Walk the line along the side of the boat to a side cleat near the stern.
• Tie it off there.

Good way to drown.
A line should be tied from bow eye to rear side cleat. Carabiner attaches anchor line floating portion to line. Carabiner slides to bow after deploying anchor from rear corner of deck.Do not go on bow!
Go out with a guide who anchors and watch how it is done.

 

[Doug]

I agree with Civano 100%

Take a lesson from someone who knows what they are doing when anchoring or go on a charter and video everything.
Reading the tide chart, the water flow and bottom contour is needed to know where and when you can anchor.
How you display your bait and hooks sets makes a big difference getting hooked up.
Catching halibut is not easy and that is why it is called White Gold, and the price too.

I offer halibut or salmon lessons on owner boats in the Victoria area. It includes how to read the water flow charts, anchoring (I have a anchor package if needed) bait, type of hook sets, rods and reels. Price is based on what you need.

But You have to have the correct type of boat too.

 

[Drewski Canuck]

Yeah, about that Chatgpt thingy. The float should be able to keep an anchor and chain floating. No way a 15 inch diameter ball is going to do that. The chain is usually 15 feet long, and is 3/8 inch galvanized. Add that to your Anchor for 15 pounds and that thing will not float the anchor and chain.

Also, the Carbiner should be the type with the screw lock, not just a spring catch. Go to Pacific Net and Twine and see what they sell as a package, they will explain how it all works. Less chance of having a funny angle or bow cleat catching it and twisting it open.

Final point, a sharp knife has to be hand to cut the anchor line free of the boat in an emergency.

Drewski

 

[kaelc]

Good way to die, follow AI’s advice. Hire Doug to come out with you 3-4 times. I showed my buddy twice and the next time he went out and wrapped his line around an engine and was taking on water. One thing he did learn is to keep a knife handy. Cost him his whole new anchor setup but not his life and his three buddies.

I have a lot of respect for AI it comes up with some good ideas, spend hundreds on it every month to augment experts, but if we rely on it to replace learning things the right way, we’ll end up in the Terminator movie.

 

[chille51]

I have a 17' Arima as well, and I caught some hali from it last season, but I wasn't anchored and probably won't try that anytime soon. Fully realize how dangerous it can be if not done correctly, and not sure I want to haul the gear required. My hali last year were just drifting on a slack tide, banging bottom with a mudraker. Pretty basic and simple, and I probably got lucky but we found our possession limit. This was up around Port McNeill.

 

[wolf]

THIS is the reason why I take people out every year , there is a some good points there but some VERY bad points there that IMO are very dangerous , And I offer a break for SFBC , take up Dougs offer or hire someone anchoring can be very dangerous !!!ive seen it all in 40 years of doing it.

 

[ClintR]

If it puts your minds to rest AI stole that advice right off this site-it's been posted many times here.

One thing I question is investing all that money in ground tackle for what amounts to squib-sized fish but that's your call; there's also an argument that drifting/bottom bouncing is easier/cheaper and just as productive.

All my biggest halibut have come on the troll.

 

[A-a-Ron]

I’m no Hali veteran, but I thought you were supposed to use your approx boat length in heavy chain. So more like 20-25’

 

[wolf]

I’m no Hali veteran, but I thought you were supposed to use your approx boat length in heavy chain. So more like 20-25’

Double length of boat. and smaller anchor I only use a 15 lber for my 10,000 boat longer chain

 

[trophywife]

scary at best. go out with someone who knows how to do these things right, and why.

 

[Alex_c]

Crazy how whenever I ask an LLM about subject matter I have a decent level of knowledge in, it’s lying most of the time.

 

[wolf]

Please whatever ya do get someone who has done it lots as ive seen some very scketchy stuff just becasue its calm and flat currnet can be tricky ,I watched a guy last year throw his anchor from the rear of boat then back up wrapped it on prop he lifted leg hanging on swim grid , un tangled it (dont ask me how). even after all the years ive done it it still make sure everything is well in tune before I let it go ...