jackfish
Active Member
that company Njord makes steel rigger bases. machined aluminum
$360! That's almost 4 new scottys.
that company Njord makes steel rigger bases. machined aluminum
need to set up the brake and if you drag bottom run bell's and it help's if you snag up not to keep going ... trust me got that tee shirt, as the base never let go but the fibreglass gunnel did ...We blew out 2 bases in one day fishing rats nose a few years back. That started my delve into making stainless rigger basses.
need to set up the brake and if you drag bottom run bell's and it help's if you snag up not to keep going ... trust me got that tee shirt, as the base never let go but the fibreglass gunnel did ...View attachment 110856
Agree -my analogue counters are more accurate than the digitals and rely on them primarily when fishing over rough ground.Good idea.
I’m curious why they won’t just make the HP with the digital counter? I’ve seen the few mod jobs on here, seems like a no brainer
If adding to a Scotty you will need a servo or linear actuator with a mechanical quick release/override for dealing with the brake release for dropping the ball. If you’re not using a sounder with NMEA 0183 serial data output, a bare transducer will need a signal generator and amplifier on the tx side, and an amplifier and microcontroller to process the incoming signal on the rx side (plus the right algorithm to sync the outgoing pulse with the incoming signal, and interpret that signal into depth data). Not trivial from an engineering perspective.Seems like an invention waiting to happen...precise depth monitoring for deep fishing. Wireless technologies essentially are out of the question for such depths, as the signals don't penetrate water well. So it would need to be wired, or sonic. Since we have a rigger line already, wired could actually be feasible. But sonic would be really trick. Putting a sonic device on the ball, would require power. Battery wouldn't be a great solution, because the power needed to ping from that deep is relatively high. So...simplest could be a dedicated transponder aimed backwards from the boat, at the right angle to 'see' the ball? A $100 hummingbird could do the trick? I'm going to give it a try...
That’s interesting and good to know. I might have give 2106 some more considerationGood counters or bad, you have to love the Scotty warranty and service. Just received my new set of digital counters with two manual counters and the retrofit template to install them. Those Ali Express $3 lenses in a rubber grommet should complete the retrofit.
Right now I have the glass lense in a gorilla tape sandwich until the end of season-thinking of a 3/8 neoprene base and an 1/8 top. What grommet are you thinking of?Good counters or bad, you have to love the Scotty warranty and service. Just received my new set of digital counters with two manual counters and the retrofit template to install them. Those Ali Express $3 lenses in a rubber grommet should complete the retrofit.
Can can almost say the same. Running 3 2106’s since they came out and just replaced my first digital counter. On sale at Harbour Chandler for $59. If anyone needs oneI'll bite ,
seems bad reviews get posted more times than good ,
iv'e run 5 x 2106's year round for 10 years now , zero issues on mine ,or very minimal.....
other than batteries dying over a reasonable time , zero complaints
Scotty , the best option imo...good guys over there.....
I just figured I could probably find a rubber grommet down at Harbour Chandler or online that I could snugly fit a lense to. Maybe glue the edges to hold it in and so it would be watertight.Right now I have the glass lense in a gorilla tape sandwich until the end of season-thinking of a 3/8 neoprene base and an 1/8 top. What grommet are you thinking of?
I love my 2106's tbh. They have been flawless except for the counters. I only run 15's with them so they aren't under as much strain as the 20# balls. The quick retrieve is so nice for fishing deep! Often now when I bring my line up to check from 200 feet, I just leave it clipped in and let the rigger do all the work! It brings up the line faster than I can reel the slack in.That’s interesting and good to know. I might have give 2106 some more consideration
Ditto. I leave the stopper in at the 20 foot mark for double stacking, even if I’m not, so I can take a rest to catch up to the downrigger when I reel my line in still clipped to the downrigger. Even with the bigger spool on a TR3, I have to focus and wind like crazy, but that 20 foot rest just before the end really comes in handy when down deep.I love my 2106's tbh. They have been flawless except for the counters. I only run 15's with them so they aren't under as much strain as the 20# balls. The quick retrieve is so nice for fishing deep! Often now when I bring my line up to check from 200 feet, I just leave it clipped in and let the rigger do all the work! It brings up the line faster than I can reel the slack in.
Roger that, and it works flawlessly for the guys I know who have run it. No counter is going to be completely accurate nor flawless. I've been pretty lucky with the first gen digital counters - after 6 years one finally failed this season.Scotty supplies a template for the old style counter mod to a 2106. Hell they even sent me two old style counters and nuts for free. Got a small 30 mm mag lense from ali baba and it is amazing how easy it was to install and sure gives peace of mind. Great addition
Awesome advice - I too have learned from experience that it pays to test and adjust your brake to allow line to come off the spool easily of you hang on the bottom. Saves a lot of cannon balls tool. Usually able to stop the boat and back up to pull the ball free if its really stuck.need to set up the brake and if you drag bottom run bell's and it help's if you snag up not to keep going ... trust me got that tee shirt, as the base never let go but the fibreglass gunnel did ...View attachment 110856
Or simply glue in a clear plate on the underside of the lid - seems to work really well. If worried about water getting through, a little black sika flex will do the trick.I just figured I could probably find a rubber grommet down at Harbour Chandler or online that I could snugly fit a lense to. Maybe glue the edges to hold it in and so it would be watertight.
Something like this:
View attachment 110893
Or If you glued it on top there wouldn't be a place for the water to pool.Or simply glue in a clear plate on the underside of the lid - seems to work really well. If worried about water getting through, a little black sika flex will do the trick.
No it’s not only your bad luck they are just not very good period I have had a discussion with Scotty about them and they admitted that it was their engineering that decided to use a digital counter instead of the old style rotary counter so just keep on returning the digital counter every year I went trough 3 of them this season CheersIs it just my bad luck or has there been ongoing issues with these counters? I put a new one in last summer and almost immediately I noticed fog inside (after a rain) from water intrusion. I took great care when installing not to pinch wires or damage the gasket. I put up with the fog on the lens of that counter then last night at a really inopportune moment the counter just died on me. I opened my gear drawer on the boat to replace it and found 3 other counters—-they had all died, too....first water intrusion, then inaccurate readings, then no readings. I hung on to them thinking maybe they’re fixable?
Were there some batches of these counters that had issues or is the life expectancy really only a couple of months? I wish the HP’s had a mechanical counter like the older style SCotties....those counters seemed way more reliable