New Salish 33' Liquid Metal Custom Build

We spend a lot of time on our small boat cruising and fishing between Hardy and Hartley bay. I have a safe range of 200 miles leaving 1/4 tank. Would love to have an extra 50 gallons.
A dingy is a must IMO. Lots of great beaches to explore. Tough to be stuck on your boat watching the other guys beach fire.
 
If you are happy with Suzuki, I'd probably stick with them. Twin DF350's "should" get the job done, but from the 33'+ boats I've either been on or seen the performance specs of, I think triple 300's is a better option. And not just for speed, you should see better mpg with three engines working easy vs two hard.

Instead of twin Yamaha 425's, I'd definitely go triple F300's - or even better, Merc 300's :). More power, similar or less weight, proven platform and cheaper to go that route. The Mercury 450R's are from their racing line and meant for go-fast type boats rather than pushing big heavy boats and probably not the best option; again for the cost, you could probably get triple 300's for less. Just to mess with your head, have you thought about diesel inboards? I was on a new 36' Eaglecraft last summer with new Volvo D4's and DPS outdrives and it was pretty slick, especially with all that room at the back. It definitely made me reconsider what power I'd put on my boat if I was in your shoes.

As someone else said above, I'd install a bow thruster and forgo the joystick. Have you even seen a boat docking with a joystick? It is a loud and violent process with the engines shifting in and out of gear and revving up and down. The whole marina comes out to watch the show! That said, I have heard that the DF350's work better with joysticks than other outboards due to the dual props.

Definitely go with the Burnewiin mounts. I put mine on my boat six years ago (dealt directly with company as there were no dealers, they were great BTW) and they've been one of the best upgrades. This past winter I added a mount for a HD trap hauler. My buddy installed a few of the mounts in the hold of his boat so when he takes his downriggers, bbq, etc. off he can have them secured down below deck, something to think about.

For fuel capacity, I'd go with enough that you can have ~12 hrs running at cruising speed PLUS 20 - 25% reserve.

One of my wife and I's favorite conversations is planning our dream boat for when we retire and what we'd put on it. We're a few years away yet, but have been on most of the 30'+ aluminum boats to see what we like / don't like (haven't been on a Liquid Metal though). I've started keeping a "build list" of things we like and can PM it to you if you want. Appreciate that everyone's custom build is going to be different to fit their planned use case, so it may not be of interest to you.
 
If you are happy with Suzuki, I'd probably stick with them. Twin DF350's "should" get the job done, but from the 33'+ boats I've either been on or seen the performance specs of, I think triple 300's is a better option. And not just for speed, you should see better mpg with three engines working easy vs two hard.

Instead of twin Yamaha 425's, I'd definitely go triple F300's - or even better, Merc 300's :). More power, similar or less weight, proven platform and cheaper to go that route. The Mercury 450R's are from their racing line and meant for go-fast type boats rather than pushing big heavy boats and probably not the best option; again for the cost, you could probably get triple 300's for less. Just to mess with your head, have you thought about diesel inboards? I was on a new 36' Eaglecraft last summer with new Volvo D4's and DPS outdrives and it was pretty slick, especially with all that room at the back. It definitely made me reconsider what power I'd put on my boat if I was in your shoes.

As someone else said above, I'd install a bow thruster and forgo the joystick. Have you even seen a boat docking with a joystick? It is a loud and violent process with the engines shifting in and out of gear and revving up and down. The whole marina comes out to watch the show! That said, I have heard that the DF350's work better with joysticks than other outboards due to the dual props.

Definitely go with the Burnewiin mounts. I put mine on my boat six years ago (dealt directly with company as there were no dealers, they were great BTW) and they've been one of the best upgrades. This past winter I added a mount for a HD trap hauler. My buddy installed a few of the mounts in the hold of his boat so when he takes his downriggers, bbq, etc. off he can have them secured down below deck, something to think about.

For fuel capacity, I'd go with enough that you can have ~12 hrs running at cruising speed PLUS 20 - 25% reserve.

One of my wife and I's favorite conversations is planning our dream boat for when we retire and what we'd put on it. We're a few years away yet, but have been on most of the 30'+ aluminum boats to see what we like / don't like (haven't been on a Liquid Metal though). I've started keeping a "build list" of things we like and can PM it to you if you want. Appreciate that everyone's custom build is going to be different to fit their planned use case, so it may not be of interest to you.
Thanks for the ideas and yes, definitely PM me your build list. I will inquire about the triple 300 Suzuki option. Great idea on the mounts. As far as the Optimus joystick system versus thrusters, I have done quite a bit of research on them and will go with the joystick. I like the virtual anchor feature that the Optimus gives you and the technology has come a long way.
 
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I remembered reading an article on multiple engine installations.

It was in two parts.

See below


 
I have been on several Liquid Metal builds. Quality work. My only criticism is the lack of planning for the electronics. With the Nordic windows you have less visibility than regular windows, but liquid metal just puts the radar/gps units on the dash further decreasing your ability to see forward.
Try to get them to do a integral dash with the electronics incorporated into the dash . Good luck and congratulations.
Yeah, the electronics are going to be set into the dash, not on the dash. Already discussed with them and they will fit. I will post the info around the electronics later, after I have done some more research.
 
That deck box would be a hard no for me. They can't do in-floor boxes? I'd rather carry a half-tote or two or coolers on deck for tuna trips than have a box like that permanently on my deck IMO. I would definitely go for a rooftop rhib dinghy with a small crane davit on this size boat, but I love exploring. You can leave the small outboard on the dinghy with the crane davit.
I am making the deck box a lot smaller than the one shown for that reason. I will also have an in floor fish box. I looked at a 33 Walker that had the davit and crane but I really don't plan on doing a lot of cruising with the boat and the wife likes being tied to the dock.
 
Does the triple 300 boat plane out on two?

Do you want room for a kicker? Like a 25 high thrust in between twins? Maybe a big boy kicker for tuna?
I wasn't going to add a kicker. I had debated that on my present boat but I like trolling on one large outboard. My 200 Suzuki is quieter than a kicker, I love the push up/down precise throttle control that increases/decreases throttle by 50 rpm increments, and I don't need a second set of controls. More hours but these new outboards really last.
 
I wasn't going to add a kicker. I had debated that on my present boat but I like trolling on one large outboard. My 200 Suzuki is quieter than a kicker, I love the push up/down precise throttle control that increases/decreases throttle by 50 rpm increments, and I don't need a second set of controls. More hours but these new outboards really last.
Big boats don't need kickers. I have a 30HP on the commander and it's pretty much useless. I wouldn't run one if I had new outboards.
 
Big boats don't need kickers. I have a 30HP on the commander and it's pretty much useless. I wouldn't run one if I had new outboards.

Just imagine a 50 HP high thrust Yamaha between two 425s...it would look like a 9.9

I wish I could troll on my main...not slow enough, mains quieter than the kicker. Looking forward to watching the build!
 
Thanks for the ideas and yes, definitely PM me your build list. I will inquire about the triple 300 Suzuki option. Great idea on the mounts. As far as the Optimus joystick system versus thrusters, I have done quite a bit of research on them and will go with the joystick. I like the virtual anchor feature that the Optimus gives you and the technology has come a long way.
At a certain point a beam wind will overpower trying to control the bow from the stern as it is totally inefficient, as vessel size increases as does sail area and eventually the joystick won't work. The ROT developed by a bowthruster will significantly out maneuver any joystick system. Neat gadget though, good luck.
 
Congrats ! Pretty much a clean slate dream boat. Takes some nerve to do a build thread, done a few….. Some thoughts based on 3 aluminum boats in 30 years ( so far…ha.. )

Not a fan of diesels unless straight shaft and you want a trailer boat so that = Outdrives which unless you go with commercial grade Konrad are a dismal experience. Marry a Volvo princess for the $ and spare parts and service. My strongly held opinion is based on 1k open checkbook repair and maintenance of twin D6-330 with DPH drives… A thru…. $ And while a D4 or D6 is an excellent Tuna troller, they are not going to work great for salmon or backtrolling for halibut.

I agree, don’t ruin your dance floor w above deck boxes. For Tuna, i use a commercial half tote and a couple of 120 Qt coolers ( 1 slush ). There are commercial grade weld in flush aluminum tie downs, my builder put the half tote in the CAD model so we could nail down the locations prior to application of non skid. i would never put SS bolts thru a fitting in my aluminum floor much less a dissimilar metal tie down….. but i agree, you need tie downs. Crossing QC strait in a 30 knot blow w 1K of fish sliding around is a pucker event… I will attach a picture of the tie downs.

Another point is no plastic hatches, Frazer or Freeman.

Love the 350 DP, just run the right octane thru it. Personally I would get a kicker, a T25 between the two mains excellent.

The joystick has one advantage over the bow thruster as it can provide a virtual anchor for Halibut, scout a long drift then put down the real hook. I like all chain main anchor rode. I rode out a 60 knot blow in St Johns harbor…..The bow thruster is handy when backing into a slip w crosswind…..

I would have builder weld a plate for davit on roof, as you range farther you may change your mind.

I am not a fan of AGM, loved the input someone else made on golf carts.

I have a bunch of Burnewin mounts / rod holders but decided against the DR mounts, wow $

Heat ? i love Webasto reliability for heat / defrost…..

Love your boat ;-)))) beautiful lines

My best to you

Jim
 

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Congrats ! Pretty much a clean slate dream boat. Takes some nerve to do a build thread, done a few….. Some thoughts based on 3 aluminum boats in 30 years ( so far…ha.. )

Not a fan of diesels unless straight shaft and you want a trailer boat so that = Outdrives which unless you go with commercial grade Konrad are a dismal experience. Marry a Volvo princess for the $ and spare parts and service. My strongly held opinion is based on 1k open checkbook repair and maintenance of twin D6-330 with DPH drives… A thru…. $ And while a D4 or D6 is an excellent Tuna troller, they are not going to work great for salmon or backtrolling for halibut.

I agree, don’t ruin your dance floor w above deck boxes. For Tuna, i use a commercial half tote and a couple of 120 Qt coolers ( 1 slush ). There are commercial grade weld in flush aluminum tie downs, my builder put the half tote in the CAD model so we could nail down the locations prior to application of non skid. i would never put SS bolts thru a fitting in my aluminum floor much less a dissimilar metal tie down….. but i agree, you need tie downs. Crossing QC strait in a 30 knot blow w 1K of fish sliding around is a pucker event… I will attach a picture of the tie downs.

Another point is no plastic hatches, Frazer or Freeman.

Love the 350 DP, just run the right octane thru it. Personally I would get a kicker, a T25 between the two mains excellent.

The joystick has one advantage over the bow thruster as it can provide a virtual anchor for Halibut, scout a long drift then put down the real hook. I like all chain main anchor rode. I rode out a 60 knot blow in St Johns harbor…..The bow thruster is handy when backing into a slip w crosswind…..

I would have builder weld a plate for davit on roof, as you range farther you may change your mind.

I am not a fan of AGM, loved the input someone else made on golf carts.

I have a bunch of Burnewin mounts / rod holders but decided against the DR mounts, wow $

Heat ? i love Webasto reliability for heat / defrost…..

Love your boat ;-)))) beautiful lines

My best to you

Jim
Thanks for your input. I am definitely rethinking the deck box. Love your boat. Looks like a total beast. Good idea on the davit plate.
 
Big boats don't need kickers. I have a 30HP on the commander and it's pretty much useless. I wouldn't run one if I had new outboards.
I have twin 300hp Verados which are great for everything.....except backtrolling for halibut, just too much power. I don't know if the virtual anchor would be any better in a swell with a cross chop as a vessel has a natural tendency to seek the wind by the stern. I'd be interested to see if it could without driving you nuts (and your lines)
 
I have twin 300hp Verados which are great for everything.....except backtrolling for halibut, just too much power. I don't know if the virtual anchor would be any better in a swell with a cross chop as a vessel has a natural tendency to seek the wind by the stern. I'd be interested to see if it could without driving you nuts (and your lines)
I can tell you one thing, the kicker is even worse in reverse. Which sucks because back trolling is why I wanted it.
 
I have twin 300hp Verados which are great for everything.....except backtrolling for halibut, just too much power. I don't know if the virtual anchor would be any better in a swell with a cross chop as a vessel has a natural tendency to seek the wind by the stern. I'd be interested to see if it could without driving you nuts (and your lines)
Too much power? How do you back-troll? I always keep stern into wind, both engines on and in neutral 90% of the time, then kick one of them in reverse to get the lines straightish. Which motor i shift depends on whith way the boat needs to turn(which side is going under the boat), but they are only in reverse 10% of the time. Problem I see with virtual anchors is that often backtrolling is not to keep yourself geostationary, trying to do that messes with line angles, its to keep your drift in tune with subsurface currents.

I can tell you one thing, the kicker is even worse in reverse. Which sucks because back trolling is why I wanted it.

Backtrolling on a kicker SUCKS. have you tried trimming yours up a fair ways so your'e bot bouncing propwash off the transom? being centred should make it not as terrible.
 
Too much power? How do you back-troll? I always keep stern into wind, both engines on and in neutral 90% of the time, then kick one of them in reverse to get the lines straightish. Which motor i shift depends on whith way the boat needs to turn(which side is going under the boat), but they are only in reverse 10% of the time. Problem I see with virtual anchors is that often backtrolling is not to keep yourself geostationary, trying to do that messes with line angles, its to keep your drift in tune with subsurface currents.



Backtrolling on a kicker SUCKS. have you tried trimming yours up a fair ways so your'e bot bouncing propwash off the transom? being centred should make it not as terrible.
Yes that's exactly what I do is trim up as much as possible. Unfortunately the original kicker was offset so I just left it that way to avoid repairs from changing the bracket. In hindsight I should have centered it. The other issue with the 30 is it has a severe rev limiter so it only ever gets up half throttle at best. I hate it so much. I also use my kicker to stay over my prawn gear and it really can't even keep up with that. If I'm in wind against current conditions I'm having to run back and forth 20 feet to the main controls and that's impossible to do solo.
 
We really like our transom door it makes access so much easier for us seniors. I put a soft clear door stop button on the engine to prevent cosmetic damage to the engine

It looks from the picture that hull# 2 has an inward swinging door.

An outward opening transom door was my preference for safety. Robert only builds doors that way.

Outward opining are more structurally sound if waves crash the stern, and they allows quick drainage if for some reason you ship water.
 
We really like our transom door it makes access so much easier for us seniors. I put a soft clear door stop button on the engine to prevent cosmetic damage to the engine

It looks from the picture that hull# 2 has an inward swinging door.

An outward opening transom door was my preference for safety. Robert only builds doors that way.

Outward opining are more structurally sound if waves crash the stern, and they allows quick drainage if for some reason you ship water.
Everyone has a preference.
I would not want an outward swinging door. If someone leans on the door believing it's latched and it's not they may fall out and into the chuck. I much prefer the inward swing for this reason. Guys are always bracing themselves on the transom.
 
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