New bunk help

[Baxter]

The carpet on my bunks are shredding. Going to replace it.

Going to replace the wood also just out of convenience. Will rebuild/wrap the new bunks so they are ready then go dump the boat off at the marina and tie it off while I quickly swap the old with the new.

Couple questions:

First, pressure treated or not? I’ve heard arguments for both. I’m leaning towards not. (edit: 100% not doing treated now)

Also was going to order the carpet from Amazon. Does it really matter? Anything I should look for?

I debated plastic/statboard/teflon or something similar instead of carpet, but is it really worth the extra expense? Anywhere to source locally in the Comox valley?

Thanks!

 

[Ringo]

have you considered to add the UHMW slides instead of carpet? Needs no maintenance, lasts forever and is easier on the haul.

 

[Baxter]

have you considered to add the UHMW slides instead of carpet? Needs no maintenance, lasts forever and is easier on the haul.

I’m starting to lean in that direction. My bunks thought are 5 1/2” and all the UBMW stuff I’m finding is 3”.

I think I’ll pop by industrial plastics on Monday and see what they have that might work.

 

[Ringo]

I’m starting to lean in that direction. My bunks thought are 5 1/2” and all the UBMW stuff I’m finding is 3”.

I think I’ll pop by industrial plastics on Monday and see what they have that might work.

they can definitely custom design and build it to match the profile of your bunks, even drill the screw holes to match your bunk’s length and width. I had them on my lake aluminum boat and I really liked them.

 

[Flashman]

I was going to try this stuff:

Amazon.com

Fits either 2x4's or 2x6's.

 

[Pineapple Express]

Here's something else to consider:

Use PVC facia boards from your local home-improvement store to cover a wooden bunks.

I've done this for my 13ft Whaler. 2x6 pressure treated bunk boards topped with 1x6 PVC facia boards with counter-sunk fasteners. Cheap and easy. Works great for me. I found this suggestion on The Hull Truth years ago

 

[Sea Chaser]

Here's something else to consider:

Use PVC facia boards from your local home-improvement store to cover a wooden bunks.

I've done this for my 13ft Whaler. 2x6 pressure treated bunk boards topped with 1x6 PVC facia boards with counter-sunk fasteners. Cheap and easy. Works great for me. I found this suggestion on The Hull Truth years ago

Interesting , do you use that on a fiberglass hull? I can see it would be nice for an aluminum hull but I’d be worried to scratch the gel coat ?

 

[noluck]

for aluminum boats i just use the 2x6 no covering

 

[Pineapple Express]

Interesting , do you use that on a fiberglass hull? I can see it would be nice for an aluminum hull but I’d be worried to scratch the gel coat ?

Yes, my Boston Whaler is fiberglass. No scratches

 

[Squire]

Regardless of whether you cover with PVC or carpet, I’d suggest Cypress(Yellow Cedar) for the bunks. No chemicals and it will last longer than you. Windsor Plywood in Nanaimo carries several dimensions of rough-cut, fine-grained Cypress lumber including 6”x6” that I ripped in half for my bunks.

 

[Marley]

I think you can have corrosion problems with treated wood and aluminum. Last time I did it I used outdoor carpet rather than “marine grade” as it was way cheaper and had no issues.

 

[Baxter]

I’m thinking I’ll go PVC on standard 2x6 lumber. (Not PT).

Only problem is my bunks are 9’2”. So one sheet of 24x48 3/8 PVC is just short. Have to buy two sheets!

Doing more research but thoughts on using this?

 

[Olde School]

carpet is the way to go, your boat comes off when you want it to, not before

 

[Aces]

I’m starting to lean in that direction. My bunks thought are 5 1/2” and all the UBMW stuff I’m finding is 3”.

I think I’ll pop by industrial plastics on Monday and see what they have that might work.

They will custom cut for you

 

[Max123]

I'd stay away from pressure treated, especially if its an aluminum boat. Even though the boat isn't in contact, a lot of pressure treatment uses copper as the preservative and you need to be fussy about fasteners/mounting points or everything just dissolves due to corrosion. Hot dipped galvanized, stainless or proprietary fasteners are required (simpson strong-tie makes a few, as well a some of the other fastener companies) - if you are tacking the new carpet onto the bunks you need to be careful about those fasteners as well.

I'd actually go in a totally different direction. As someone else said, just go down to windsor plywood and look through some of the more exotic woods that have extremely high rot resistance - might be the most expensive 2x4 / 2x6 you have ever purchased - but honestly who cares? You only need 2 (maybe 4 on a bigger trailer).

I came to this realization when I redid the transom on an old 12ft cartopper. Forget so called 'marine grade plywood' - I just bought myself a small piece of 5/4 x 8" clear mahogany. 1000x more rot resistant than any plywood, way stronger, and a million times nicer to look at. I didn't seal it or anything, it oxidized to a nice silver finish after a few years and every time I look at it, it gives me some satisfaction.

I was at PoCo Building Supplies the other day and they have started to carry a product called luna wood, which is thermally modified lumber. Very attractive, and has the rot resistance of some exotics with no chemicals. A nice option, but I think its only available in 5/4 decking, and not in 2x dimensions yet.

 

[Baxter]

carpet is the way to go, your boat comes off when you want it to, not before

I understand what you are saying, but as long as the bow strap is attached that boat is not sliding off the trailer - unless the strap and backup chain both happened to fail at the same time.

I really need to have it easy to crank the boat onto the trailer even if the bunks are dry. I can do it with dry carpeted bunks but it nearly kills me (and can't be good for my winch either!). If I have something more slick then it will make my life much easier.

I launch a lot at Kitty and Point Holmes and those launches are terrible most of the time (some select tides are awesome, but mostly they suck). I also sold my truck and drive a new SUV, and am NOT going to dip my car, so sometimes this means only getting a small amount of water on the bunks.

Rollers would also solve the problem, but not making that switch as bunks are better for storage purposes etc.

 

[Baxter]

Here's something else to consider:

Use PVC facia boards from your local home-improvement store to cover a wooden bunks.

I've done this for my 13ft Whaler. 2x6 pressure treated bunk boards topped with 1x6 PVC facia boards with counter-sunk fasteners. Cheap and easy. Works great for me. I found this suggestion on The Hull Truth years ago

I like this idea, and may do just this. Home Depot has 2'x4' x 3/8 sheets for like $30. Unfortunately I would need to buy 2 sheets (1 would be just shy). Definitely an affordable way to go - under $100 all in with two new 2x6x10's.

Going to stop by Industrial Plastics probably today and see what they offer though first. HDPE would be great, but it is $$$

 

[Baxter]

for aluminum boats i just use the 2x6 no covering

I debated this - just a standard 2x6 - even if it only lasts a few years, its a fast cheap replacement. How well do things slide on just bare wood? I would guess slicker than carpet, but not as slick as vinyl/hdpe/pvc etc. Maybe somewhere in the middle?

 

[noluck]

just some notes that i have found using all the options listed,

i had carpet with the jet boat and hated it, did not slide at all. bunk slides (too slick with aluminum, drive it on the trailer to have it slide back off) with wood it would hold and easy to winch to the stop. without the covering to hold water the wood does not rot

 

[Baxter]

just some notes that i have found using all the options listed,

i had carpet with the jet boat and hated it, did not slide at all. bunk slides (too slick with aluminum, drive it on the trailer to have it slide back off) with wood it would hold and easy to winch to the stop. without the covering to hold water the wood does not rot

I never drive on, only ever winch on.... so something slick would not likely be an issue...