Buying a Boat Trailer, What should I consider and What Braking System should I choose.

I have a 2018 single axel 5080 lb Tuff single axel aluminum trailer for my 20ft Alumaweld. The previous trailer that came from the US was a Rogue . Total POS The Tuff came with carpeted bunks, that I covered with plastic slick bunk add ons. Remove or isolate the boat from carpets. They hold water and in time will cause you problems. One big thing that is worth the money-- GET AN ELECTRIC WINCH !! I have a TW 9000 Strong Arm, 12v. Winch that will allow you to retrieve your boat on tides that scare the hell out of others trying to pull boats at a low tide.
Nice, that electric winch looks interesting, another option to add to the list, seems like an awesome add-on, thanks for the recommendation.

BTW for your bunk covers, did you cover the entire length of the bunk or buy ones that are 10" - 12" long and add them to the ends only?


David.
 
I have had 5 aluminum trailers and all were superior to the 3 galvanized trailers I had. That said, trailer attributes I would insist on of building would be a) torsion axle, b) disc brakes with good reputation, c) bunks with plastic sliders instead of carpet, d) goal posts to help load trailer, e) hubs that are builtproof and the last trailer I bought had Vortex Hub/Spindle which is designed to be a no maintenance hub for 6 years, so.... we'll see on that, and f) stoutest looking construction you can afford. As for EOH, it is a must if the boat is big and your stabicraft doesnt look that heavy to require in Canada. As far as stainless U-bolts vs. steel that is hot dipped galvanized, I have been told by several trailer sales people the hot dipped galvanized are substantially stronger than stainless, so... that would be my choice, which might require me to spray some zink paint on the nuts after a few years to keep rust in check.

good luck. DAJ
 
Nice, that electric winch looks interesting, another option to add to the list, seems like an awesome add-on, thanks for the recommendation.

BTW for your bunk covers, did you cover the entire length of the bunk or buy ones that are 10" - 12" long and add them to the ends only?


David.
Just covered the bunks partially. Maybe 25% in total. But they sure make it easier launching and retrieving especially on a shallow pitch ramp at low tide.
 
I have had 5 aluminum trailers and all were superior to the 3 galvanized trailers I had. That said, trailer attributes I would insist on of building would be a) torsion axle, b) disc brakes with good reputation, c) bunks with plastic sliders instead of carpet, d) goal posts to help load trailer, e) hubs that are builtproof and the last trailer I bought had Vortex Hub/Spindle which is designed to be a no maintenance hub for 6 years, so.... we'll see on that, and f) stoutest looking construction you can afford. As for EOH, it is a must if the boat is big and your stabicraft doesnt look that heavy to require in Canada. As far as stainless U-bolts vs. steel that is hot dipped galvanized, I have been told by several trailer sales people the hot dipped galvanized are substantially stronger than stainless, so... that would be my choice, which might require me to spray some zink paint on the nuts after a few years to keep rust in check.

good luck. DAJ
Are the plastic bunk sliders ok to use with bottom paint?
 
Are the plastic bunk sliders ok to use with bottom paint?
The ones from Habour Chandler.ca do not recommend using with bottom paint, not sure if all sliders are the same but would assume they would eventually scratch the bottom paint.

 
Thanks for all the info and recommendations, I have finally placed an order with Galleon Marine for an EZ Loader Aluminum Trailer.

I chose a Tandem Axle model with Torsion Axles with Electric over Hydraulic Disk Brakes
Model T TA96BT 20-23 5200 6600 ST205/75R14C
I also choose to go with Aluminum Wheels and Teflon Bunk Slides.

I originally wanted the Tuff Trailer but optioned out it was getting into $20k range all in, this one was about $14,000 (plus taxes) including EOH Disk Brakes. So about $4,000 less, enough to sway me and hopefully the EZ Loader trailer treats me well.

Delivery for estimated for April 2023.

David.
 
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Thanks for all the info and recommendations, I have finally placed an order with Galleon Marine for an EZ Loader Aluminum Trailer.

I chose a Tandem Axle model with Torsion Axles with Electric over Hydraulic Disk Brakes
Model T TA96BT 20-23 5200 6600 ST205/75R14C
I also choose to go with Aluminum Wheels and Teflon Bunk Slides.

I originally wanted the Tuff Trailer but optioned out it was getting into $20k range all in, this one was about $14,000 (plus taxes) including EOH Disk Brakes. So over $4,000 less, enough to sway me and hopefully the EZ Loader trailer treats me well.

Delivery for estimated for April 2023.

David.
That’s a gorgeous trailer and Ez loader been around a long time I’m sure you’ll be very happy with your purchase!!! Congrats
 
When you get your trailer, just for reference purposes it's a good idea IMO to take a couple of measurements from the top of your torsion bar to the underside on your frame. I would do with trailer unloaded, trailer fully loaded. (boat fully loaded with gear etc). This will be your reference numbers to use as your trailer ages and the torsion axle sags as the rubber cords deteriorate. I did not do this when my now 8 year ez loader single axle trailer was new. Not sure how you tell when torsion axles are at "end of life" unless they fail but with original reference numbers you can at least monitor the change as it ages.

My set-up is similar to what's show here and I know I am now past the normal load shown in the picture so I've monitored closely the last two years to see if it's getting worse. I take my measurement from the end of the torsion arm (top) to the underside of the I-Beam frame.

Again, this just my opinion that it's something worth doing.

_c.jpeg
 
When you get your trailer, just for reference purposes it's a good idea IMO to take a couple of measurements from the top of your torsion bar to the underside on your frame. I would do with trailer unloaded, trailer fully loaded. (boat fully loaded with gear etc). This will be your reference numbers to use as your trailer ages and the torsion axle sags as the rubber cords deteriorate. I did not do this when my now 8 year ez loader single axle trailer was new. Not sure how you tell when torsion axles are at "end of life" unless they fail but with original reference numbers you can at least monitor the change as it ages.

My set-up is similar to what's show here and I know I am now past the normal load shown in the picture so I've monitored closely the last two years to see if it's getting worse. I take my measurement from the end of the torsion arm (top) to the underside of the I-Beam frame.

Again, this just my opinion that it's something worth doing.

View attachment 87389
Thank you for the picture/diagrams, I will take measurements and record them for future reference.

I would never have thought about that, are torsion axles servicable or do you just replace the axle once it sags too much?

David.
 

Hi David,

Not serviceable from any information that I've been able to find. This link has some general info on torsion axles. You may have to copy and paste it into your browser. It also shows a different method of measuring sag but I think tire wear and tire air pressure would affect it so I chose the method I noted above. They list 15-20 years as a life span for their Boler trailer applications but this would be affected by loading conditions that you will have with your boat and trailer.

One of the biggest problems with axles and especially bearings is that many, if not most folks, have trailers that barely meet the load carrying requirement that people put on them.

For example, the trailer that came with my boat is a 5000lb trailer. (GVWR) This was the trailer that was supplied by EZ loader to the boat builder. Many assume that it is rated to carry 5000lbs but as you can see by the sticker it is only rated to carry 3700lbs. The dry weight of my boat is 2800lbs. All good until you load fuel, water, gear etc and you are soon near or over the rated carrying capacity. I'm near my load carrying capacity so I do not expect to get 15-20 years out of my axle. Your situation with your boat and trailer may be all good but it's something to be aware of. Weight adds up quickly when you start tossing things into a boat.

From what I have read online in different forums, many axle and bearing failures can be directly linked to overloading and not to bearing maintenance.


1670180288210.jpeg
 
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