Cope Design - Cortes Island 30 Build

[mbowers]

My SS175HW was mounted thru-hull last time and while it was phenominal at lower speeds, when speeds picked up it was intermittent. That is because on aluminum boats you require a plastic spacer between the transducer and the hull. I'd say that spacer was about 3/8" which really disturbed the water. I am planning to do what BCI mentioned above on point #4. I can't remember where I saw this pic from but it looks pretty slick. BCI with the spacer in place, I was thinking that I'd have the bracket mounted to that it was 2mm below the hull. What are your thoughts there?

For the through hull transducer did you ever try a little trim tab to drop the bow and clean up the water flow? Works for me and everyone else Ive talked to who had the same complaint about higher speed issues. From how your experience went with that boat is it possible it was just a badly done transducer install?

For the transom mount Totalscan Lowrance transducer with Chirp, it is perfectly acceptable to have the transducer out of the water per Lowrance.



I don't really like the idea of transom transducers on plane because there is a lot of complicated water flow there to get a good signal but maybe the tab version is ok. I would most definitely not let any builder make a change to the transom design by adding a tab without checking with the hull designer. That is the most sensitive area of hull design. In my case, the clown that bought the company from the original designer circus built my boat with a pack of monkeys. They mounted the trim tabs a little low so they dragged and the boat would porpoise. The builder blamed the slightly larger gas tank for the porpoise. Since I traded in one of the original hulls which never porpoised, I didn't believe the builder and checked with the original hull designer/builder. He confirmed that if the trim tabs dragged when retracted the hull would porpoise. I moved my trim tabs and the porpoise went away. So be very careful when making any changes to the running surface, especially at the transom.

Cool topics and great to learn from all the contributions .. Will attempt to integrate into my next build.

 

[Waterwolf2230]

For the through hull transducer did you ever try a little trim tab to drop the bow and clean up the water flow? Works for me and everyone else Ive talked to who had the same complaint about higher speed issues. From how your experience went with that boat is it possible it was just a badly done transducer install?

For the transom mount Totalscan Lowrance transducer with Chirp, it is perfectly acceptable to have the transducer out of the water per Lowrance.
View attachment 43737


I don't really like the idea of transom transducers on plane because there is a lot of complicated water flow there to get a good signal but maybe the tab version is ok. I would most definitely not let any builder make a change to the transom design by adding a tab without checking with the hull designer. That is the most sensitive area of hull design. In my case, the clown that bought the company from the original designer circus built my boat with a pack of monkeys. They mounted the trim tabs a little low so they dragged and the boat would porpoise. The builder blamed the slightly larger gas tank for the porpoise. Since I traded in one of the original hulls which never porpoised, I didn't believe the builder and checked with the original hull designer/builder. He confirmed that if the trim tabs dragged when retracted the hull would porpoise. I moved my trim tabs and the porpoise went away. So be very careful when making any changes to the running surface, especially at the transom.

Cool topics and great to learn from all the contributions .. Will attempt to integrate into my next build.

Yup I totally agree. I emailed Mr. Cope this AM and he is looking into both a larger fuel tank and the trim tabs. I’m not sure that trim tabs should span across a chine as it would create uneven pressure. He’s the expert, I’ll rely on him for this.

 

[mbowers]

Yup I totally agree. I emailed Mr. Cope this AM and he is looking into both a larger fuel tank and the trim tabs. I’m not sure that trim tabs should span across a chine as it would create uneven pressure. He’s the expert, I’ll rely on him for this.

Make sure he knows about the transducer tab plan too!

 

[goddan]

Well I pulled the trigger on my next boat. 2018 was an emotional roller coaster for me. As many of you know I had purchased a new 26’ RH Sea Hawk Pro last spring. I fished hard through the summer and honestly it was a fantastic fishing machine that went like a rocket. I loved many things about the boat…until it sank. I had left it in the marina as I had planned to return in a week for another trip with friends. Over the course of the week a small leak eventually killed the batteries and down she went in the marina. The boat was a total write-off and I was absolutely GUTTED...

The investigation took the marine surveyor months to figure out, in fact it wasn't until he solicited help from Daigle that they were able to pinpoint the issue. The exact cause ended up being a failed weld in the starboard/transom corner. It was letting in approximately 1 TBSP per second which he said equaled to approximately 100 gallons/day. They couldn’t tell me if it was a poor weld or a structural issue but at this point it no longer matters to me. I stayed very quiet about it as I didn’t feel that it was fair to speak about it until it was determined what caused it to sink. I know that some of you warned me about RH Boats and you can now say I told you so. Anyway, I’m on to bigger and better things!

I’ve decided to go with a Cope Design – Cortes Island 30’ with pod to be fabricated by Leon at Cutting Edge Aluminum in Campbell River. Leon is an Aussie who has been fabricating aluminum boats for over 20 years. He’s built 3 Cope Design boats so far. I spoke with Bruce about the quality of his previous boats and he highly recommended Leon. Bruce said that he won’t endorse someone if he hasn’t personally inspected his work and said that I’m in good hands! I had Bruce’s team make some customizations to the plan which I think will make it near perfect for me. There will be nearly 10’ of rear deck space which is great for jigging.

This is what I’m planning for my build. I’m open to suggestions on some things (except power) so fire away if you have ideas.

2019 Cope Designed – Cortes Island 30
Color: TBD
Power: Twin 300 Evinrude G2’s w RX4 props
Kicker: Evinrude 15HO Kicker
Fuel: 120 Gallons / 545 Litres

Cab:
Seats – Black Corbin with Shockwave Suspension Modules x 2
Table with bench – Port
Bench with storage - Starboard
LED Style Cup Holders
Small sink with a bank of drawers
ProMariner TruePower Inverter/Battery Charger Combo
USB Charge Ports and 12v lighter outlet
Hella Marine NaviLED Navigation Lights


Aft Deck:
Doors and windows by AJR
Offset cabin door to starboard side
24” x 16” helm – Starboard
16” x 16” storage - Port
Dual Premium Binnacles
Waterproof USB Charger
iTroll for kicker
Evinrude iDock System
Custom Drawer Tackle Station
Large insulated infloor fish box – 165 US Gallons
Transom fish box w/aerator (still working on details)
Hella Marine Sea Hawk-XLB LED Floodlights (Rear facing)
Starboard side walkthrough door
8’ locking rod locker – Port Side

Top
Simrad Halo 24 Radar
Simrad HS60 GPS/Compass
Shakespeare 6225 – 8’ VHF antenna
Shakespeare 5420-XT Little Giant FM Antenna
Stryker LED Spotlight
Marinco Dual Trumpet Horn
8 Aluminum Rocket Launchers on roof overhang
Hella Marine NaviLED All Round White Navigation Lamp

Electronics:
2 x 12” Simrad EVO 3 Chartplotters w/Vancouver Island Navionics
Airmar SS175HW – 1kW thru hull transducer to be hung off transom
***Possible 3D Transducer – TBD***
Simrad RS40 VHF
Simrad NAC-2 AutoPilot
Simrad RPU-80 Pump
Simrad WR10 Wireless Remote
Fusion Apollo MS RA770 Touch Head Unit
4 x Fusion 7.7” Chrome 280 watt LED speakers
1 x Fusion Sub
Polk Audio 5 Channel Amp

Cuddy
Jabsco Lite Flush Electric Toilet w/holding tank
LED Lighting

Accessories
ACR Globalfix Epirb – Auto Release
Bennet 12” x 12” Bolt Electric Trim Tabs
Bennet AutoTrim Pro Controller
Lewmar Windlass – TBD
Whale 1300gph auto bilge
Whale 3000gph manual bilge
Freshwater tank
Saltwater Washdown - stern, port side
2 x Group 27 starter batteries
1 x Group 31 AGM House Battery
Saviour Battery Trays x 3
OceanLED Sport Series S3116 Blue Underwater Lights x 2
Scotty HP Downriggers

Let the debt begin!

WW

Did i miss heater.
Good luck with your new build.

 

[Waterwolf2230]

Did i miss heater.
Good luck with your new build.

I’m going to have them fabricate in a small 5 gallon diesel/kerosene tank for future Espar heater. It’s just not high on my priority list right now. I may have to rely on my little Buddy heater for a while

 

[CBsqrd]

Sorry to hear about your boat, must have been terrible waiting for everything to get sorted out with the survey and insurance. But can’t think of a better way to put that behind you than planning and kitting out a new custom boat!

Like others have said, go as big as possible on the fuel tank. I’d even go to 200 USG (two separate 100 G tanks if possible) if you can. Great part of having a 30’ boat is exploring the coast and staying on the boat and the longer you can go between filling up the better (especially when you get to places where fuel is $2 / l).

I’d recommend Burnewiin mounts for your downrigger / rod holders. One of the best upgrades we did on our boat was replacing the flush mount holders in the gunnels with Burnewiins. I’d put three down each gunnel and if you have the room a few more across the back / gunnel. Great for quickly moving or taking off your downriggers, dropping in rod holders for bottom fishing and even your BBQ.

Are you putting in any lighting under the gunnels? Nice way to light up the back deck area when you want something more subtle than the spreader lights. I installed Lumitec Rail2 LEDs under the gunnels; the cool part is that can be changed between white/red/blue (plus you can dim the white) all by turning the switch on/off. I have the Caprera2 spreader lights which are also dimmable/colour changing with just a flick of the on/off switch.

Make sure at least one of your tackle drawers is deep enough to hold a flasher standing on edge. Best way to keep them organized is to run a piece of wood/starboard through the table saw or router to make a holder. Can pack them in tight and still have them all accessible.

Good luck and looking forward to seeing it all come together.

 

[Oly1]

That’s terrible news Curtis. That’s not a call anyone wants to hear. The one consolation will be the fishing machine that emerges from all of this. It sounds like it’s gonna be epic.

I didn't realize the SS175 had such a thick spacer for alloy hulls. I had the B175HW on an Ocean Sport 30 but no spacer since it was bronze on glass.

For your application I would be afraid to give wrong advice... not sure what is going to give you the cleanest water flow. You might have to rig it up in an adjustable fashion to see what works best then finalize the location based on results. I just don't know what will happen with water flow when the surface is not flush from hull bottom to transducer mounting tab.

Ya, I can always mount it flush and have 1/8" spacers made for it and once I get the spacing perfect lock it in with 5200.

I can’t give real world experience on this either and would also hate to give bad advice,however have you thought about doing the extended mount on the transom with a recessed hole CNC’d for the spacer and transducer to sit in and the whole thing being flush or at least relatively flush with the bottom of the haul.

It’s a thought anyways.

Oly

 

[Ceilidh69]

Wow Curtis very sorry to see that - can't even imagine how hard that must have been. Saw how much time and effort you put in to setting up the Riverhawk last year. Based on the detailed specs you provided for the new boat and going with such a great design, am sure you will be very happy and that it will be a superb "rest of life" fishing boat. Look forward to your well thought out and well explained comments during the build. Needs lots of weekly pics. On a selfish note - I should be able to get many good ideas for my upcoming build in the next three to five years. May just have to drop by an see it at the marina if it is done by early this fall!!! Cheers

 

[Mike park]

Heart breaking to see your old boat like that can't imagine how it would have felt to see that.

I had Bruce Cope build me a boat in 1995 and sold it last spring to go to the 24 foot we have now.
He built us 2 custom tiller boats they were and still are great boats, so moving forward you made a great choice in designer.
I'll look forward to watching the build , all the best.

 

[tincan]

New build sounds awesome! Always sad to a see a boat sunk like that but appears you've moved on nicely.

The first thing I noticed was the fuel capacity/range as well. Always a good idea to have more than you think you'll need. If you ever upgrade to bigger engines you might need the extra capacity. Sounds like you're on it.

Since it's not my money one thing you might want to consider is the seakeeper gyro stabilization system. They aint giving them away but they really are an unbelievably impressive product. Not sure exactly what seakeeper model would work for your new build but if you/fam have any sea sickness issues at times this is a pretty good solution to that. They have a demo boat in granville island and I got to go out on it recently to see how it works and I gotta say it surpassed my expectations. The reduction in boat roll at all speeds was pretty awesome. Again, easy to spend someone else money. Look forward to following along with the build.

 

[BCI]

You're looking at $40,000+ for a seakeeper gyro and 450 pounds added load.

 

[ReelSlim]

Funny you bring up the SeaKeeper. After my builder came back from the boat show he told me two things:

"After looking at some of those boats I know I'm not charging enough for mine!"
"You should look into the SeaKeeper product.....very impressive!"

My response after seeing the cost of one for my boat was:

I'm sure it will work great in your more expensive NEXT build after mine is done...lol

Sounds like they are the real deal though.

 

[saanauk]

You're looking at $40,000+ for a seakeeper gyro and 450 pounds added load.

Looks like $22kUSD
https://www.seakeeper.com/seakeeper_products/seakeeper-2/

 

[barkerfam]

Looks like $22kUSD
https://www.seakeeper.com/seakeeper_products/seakeeper-2/

Whoa. Just perused their site. I want one. Unfortunately (or fortunately!) that means I'd need a bigger boat!! Looks completely fantastically AWESOME. Especially as I have a son who is a puker...

 

[dmurph]

Make bottom fishing more comfortable at times

 

[tincan]

That's $22K USD for the product (seakeeper 2). The install is over top of that and would not be cheap (although would be much cheaper for new builds I would think). They are also coming out with a seakeeper 1 for even small boats (around 25' or so) next year I believe.

The biggest benefit I see with this product is that it helps reduce the every present tradeoff of "Smooth Ride VS Stability" that every boat owner deals with. Those nice chop cutting hulls typically have more roll issues due to deeper V, etc. whereas those chop slappling boats are generally much more stable while trolling/at anchor. By adding a seakeeper to a deeper V nice riding hull you could really cut back on the side to side roll and have the best of both worlds... in theory... and for $30,000+

Whoa. Just perused their site. I want one. Unfortunately (or fortunately!) that means I'd need a bigger boat!! Looks completely fantastically AWESOME. Especially as I have a son who is a puker...

 

[Waterwolf2230]

Well, small update, the cut file has been sent to the CNC shop - CJM in Vancouver! Mr. Cope was able to modify the fuel tank to a full 240 US Gallons (910L). I lost the infloor fish box but for me that isn't an issue at all as they are generally pretty ****** on aluminum boats. I am REALLY thankful that you guys made that suggestion. I think that I'll have pretty substantial range with that boat now. The team at Cope has been outstanding to work with.

Cheers,

WW

 

[NDT]

Well, small update, the cut file has been sent to the CNC shop - CJM in Vancouver! Mr. Cope was able to modify the fuel tank to a full 240 US Gallons (910L). I lost the infloor fish box but for me that isn't an issue at all as they are generally pretty ****** on aluminum boats. I am REALLY thankful that you guys made that suggestion. I think that I'll have pretty substantial range with that boat now. The team at Cope has been outstanding to work with.

Cheers,

WW

I enjoyed working with Mr. Cope. His whole team is great. I maximize the fuel tank as well.

Are you dealing with Colin @ CJM? If so, I’ve had great purchasing experience with him last December.
He had lots of suggestions and toured me around the shop. Looked at there family boat and a couple of his mini-jet boat builds.

I will definitely buy from both of them again! On the next build.... lol

 

[macro]

I enjoyed working with Mr. Cope. His whole team is great. I maximize the fuel tank as well.

Are you dealing with Colin @ CJM? If so, I’ve had great purchasing experience with him last December.
He had lots of suggestions and toured me around the shop. Looked at there family boat and a couple of his mini-jet boat builds.

I will definitely buy from both of them again! On the next build.... lol

I second that - I've had a bit done by adrenaline - they are a top notch shop.

 

[Waterwolf2230]

Small update, Colin from CJM have me the good news that my CNC work is done and they are sending the package up to Leon at Cutting Edge Aluminum so he can get started. He sent me a pic of a 32’ whale watching boat that he’s working on. The hull looks really cool. Should be stable as hell. So far I’ve been really impressed with the professionalism of everyone - Cope, CJM and Cutting Edge. This is going to be an awesome journey.

WW