Commander 26 Re Build

[Sttr]

Well there you have it. Silicon is not what you want. You want a Poly product like 42 or 5200, I tend to like the sikaflex product better for a lot of things. You have challenges here. Reason is Uv. If you use 4200, 5200, sika 291 they will turn yellowish and be really ugly in about a year. The 295UV work well but it will shrink over about 2 years. 3M has a UV. Think its called 4000 UV?

Anyway your pod guy is out to lunch

As soon as you remove those plugs, bam you crack the powder. Give it one year and the powder will be running away

Better make sure those underwater lights are not brass also. Otherwise your pod will be running away too

Stainless

 

[Corbin]

Looks awesome! I also have an early 80’s commander with 165’s. Just had new fuel tanks installed before I bought it. I’m also a mechanic. I have my own shop etc…
I’m not going to do anything near what you are doing, it I do have to redo the transom at some point and I also need to service the sliding windows as they are pretty much ceased. I have spare engines and drive parts. That’s the good things out these older units is there are tons of good used parts around and easy to work on. Thanks for all the great Info you have been posting.looking forward to seeing more

Soak your window tracks in spray on silicone lubricant. All mine were close to seized, after the treatment they are still smooth after two years.

 

[ship happens]

He did say sikaflex, I use the word silicone for everything, just as everything to me is a crossmember! 5200 is what I’m planning but will re think that and take in consideration the UV aspect. Now I am also worried about drilling holes to mount the engines and having issues with the powder coat in that spot.

So what we do when powdercoating pods, and i learned this from Doug @ PDR a long time ago.. Keep in mind this is only a temporary solution that makes the powder last several years instead of just one or 2..

Drill all the holes inside and out. Drill the engine mounting holes to fit nylon bushings with an ID of .5 inch for the 1/2inch bolts. These nylon bushings extend about 1/8 on both sides. These crush when a bolt is tightened down and don't allow the bolt to ride on the powder. Also apply vinyl non skid material to the engine bracket where the engine sits ( or some kind of material) to protect the engine bracket from rubbing through the powder. Object of the game here is any tiny nick in that poweder especially under the water mark will start running away as the salt will run through it and keep going.

ill try and dig up a picture of a pod done that way. Its been several years since I've done one

 

[Corbin]

He did say sikaflex, I use the word silicone for everything, just as everything to me is a crossmember! 5200 is what I’m planning but will re think that and take in consideration the UV aspect. Now I am also worried about drilling holes to mount the engines and having issues with the powder coat in that spot.

I would not just fill that void with caulking. If you use the pod as is I would suggest a solid shim, still not ideal.

 

[ship happens]

mind you you can follow all of these steps to the maximum, however eventually the salt will find somewhere. Either by a scratch from hitting debris or something.

 

[Rayvon]

Just to add to your troubles ,I think you might want to rethink splitting your engine hatch. It will be much harder to keep water out when split because you'll need a drip trough under the center.Maybe Ron can glass one up and join it with the perimeter troughs.

 

[Sttr]

I would not just fill that void with caulking. If you use the pod as is I would suggest a solid shim, still not ideal.

No shim, this will be repaired properly and powder coated again, not sure the process involved in re powder coating it

 

[ship happens]

No shim, this will be repaired properly and powder coated again, not sure the process involved in re powder coating it

You can repoweder no problem but it must be sanded first. I would take it to Redi Strip and get them to blast it. If that thing wasn't blasted to begin with that powder won't last

 

[Sttr]

Just to add to your troubles ,I think you might want to rethink splitting your engine hatch. It will be much harder to keep water out when split because you'll need a drip trough under the center.Maybe Ron can glass one up and join it with the perimeter troughs.

Ron is on it, seems simple to execute. Just add a formed T, will post pics

 

[Sttr]

So what we do when powdercoating pods, and i learned this from Doug @ PDR a long time ago.. Keep in mind this is only a temporary solution that makes the powder last several years instead of just one or 2..

Drill all the holes inside and out. Drill the engine mounting holes to fit nylon bushings with an ID of .5 inch for the 1/2inch bolts. These nylon bushings extend about 1/8 on both sides. These crush when a bolt is tightened down and don't allow the bolt to ride on the powder. Also apply vinyl non skid material to the engine bracket where the engine sits ( or some kind of material) to protect the engine bracket from rubbing through the powder. Object of the game here is any tiny nick in that poweder especially under the water mark will start running away as the salt will run through it and keep going.

ill try and dig up a picture of a pod done that way. Its been several years since I've done one

Makes sense,
I’m also planning to bottem paint the pod and spray the deck with whatever the boat colour will be, I’m not 100 % sure but I think we are still going prime over the powder coat

 

[ship happens]

Makes sense,
I’m also planning to bottem paint the pod and spray the deck with whatever the boat colour will be, I’m not 100 % sure but I think we are still going prime over the powder coat

So all you have to do there is Interprotect first ( you'll have to sand a bit ) 2 coats, and then bottom paint with 2 coats of TriluxII

Be pretty sweet to Kiwigrip the top of that pod

 

[Corbin]

So all you have to do there is Interprotect first ( you'll have to sand a bit ) 2 coats, and then bottom paint with 2 coats of TriluxII

Be pretty sweet to Kiwigrip the top of that pod

For those that appear to know some stuff about powder coating, a question: In both the marine and aviation environment we have seen that powder coating tends to fail rather quickly. Some have switched to an etching epoxy primer and then several coats of epoxy finish. Would love to know, definitively, which is better.

 

[Rain City]

For those that appear to know some stuff about powder coating, a question: In both the marine and aviation environment we have seen that powder coating tends to fail rather quickly. Some have switched to an etching epoxy primer and then several coats of epoxy finish. Would love to know, definitively, which is better.

X2

What do you have planned?

 

[Sir Reel]

One of my favourite parts of this biuld was playing around with the engines, starting them up in the shop, there’s something about a in-line 6 that just puts a smile on my face. Those windows are a pain when they seize up, be careful full not to crack it! Most likely the “cat whiskers “ weatherstripping needs to be replaced, it’s probably fallen apart and has debris everywhere. U might be able to clean it out? If not windows have to be removed,
Good Luck!

You could try silicone spray on the tracks. Other Commander owners have had luck with that. If your windows are Diamond Sea Glaze, like most were, you can order most window components including tracks, weather stripping, etc from Advantec. I got new rubber gaskets for my front windows. They were very helpful and quick to respond.

https://www.advantecglobal.com/

 

[Sttr]

For those that appear to know some stuff about powder coating, a question: In both the marine and aviation environment we have seen that powder coating tends to fail rather quickly. Some have switched to an etching epoxy primer and then several coats of epoxy finish. Would love to know, definitively, which is better.

Me too, I have just been told powder coating over and over again so I figured it’s a must, it seems difficult to maintain after a small failure, with epoxy I can repair anything, also I’m really just using this powder coat as a primer per say because I’m still adding bottem paint and exopy finish on the deck.
With all the layers I’m adding I wonder if it’s better to get rid of the powder coat

 

[salmonkiller01]

He did say sikaflex, I use the word silicone for everything, just as everything to me is a crossmember! 5200 is what I’m planning but will re think that and take in consideration the UV aspect. Now I am also worried about drilling holes to mount the engines and having issues with the powder coat in that spot.

The pod needs to be tight against the hull where the flotation chamber is. leaving spaces between the hull and pod will lead to water getting in the flotation chamber over time.
Most people use 5200 mounting brackets

 

[Rain City]

Man this is frustrating. How in the hell would that happen after the fact?! Kind of an infuriating response I'd say. I mean I guess it's possible that you cut all the welds and then drove over it with your truck and then re-welded it. Bit of a stretch though.

 

[Sttr]

The pod needs to be tight against the hull where the flotation chamber is. leaving spaces between the hull and pod will lead to water getting in the flotation chamber over time.
Most people use 5200 mounting brackets

I’m going to use a .015 feeler gauge all around before mounting the pod. It’s going to be flush before it gets mounted.

 

[ship happens]

For those that appear to know some stuff about powder coating, a question: In both the marine and aviation environment we have seen that powder coating tends to fail rather quickly. Some have switched to an etching epoxy primer and then several coats of epoxy finish. Would love to know, definitively, which is better.

That is better. However most pleasure boaters won't use epoxy because it won't give you that shiny glossy finish. Usually lays down differently and doesn't cure with a clear coat finish like a poly product will. I've done some with etching primer and Endura. Honestly that is more durable. Powder is honestly crap in the long run. Not suitable for long term marine use. It's cheap and easy.


Endurance and Awlgrip ( same **** ). 4 times the cost but holds up. Super flexible durable finish.


Your doing one of the coolest boat build I've seen in a ling time. Take your time. Don't rush. That will be a fantastic boat. One of the coolest around here.

Ps ditch those pipe plug lights. You want lights do bolt on.

 

[Sttr]

Man this is frustrating. How in the hell would that happen after the fact?! Kind of a frustrating response I'd say. I mean I guess it's possible that you cut all the welds and then drove over it with your truck and then re-welded it. Bit of a stretch though.

Yup, he’s obviously not very happy, I think I heard him yell **** me over the Fraser . Give him a day,
if not all good I will have it repaired in no time