Another anchoring thread

Mighty Sylvan

Active Member
Ok, after extensive reasearch for safety sake on this forum all the while wishing there was a damn picture this is what I came up with. Do I have this right?

Scotchman.jpg
 
Ok, after extensive reasearch for safety sake on this forum all the while wishing there was a damn picture this is what I came up with. Do I have this right?

View attachment 3470

If you can't get into Trotac in Victoria to have a look at a complete set up, email Trevor and see if he can send you their drawing of the setup.

IMO, I would stay away from those one way anchor lifting devices. If you give a pull and your anchor doesn't pop, the lifting device will lock onto the anchor line and may get pulled below the surface when you let off. So if you ever had troubles pulling anchor and had to leave your set up and come back later, it may not allow your scotchman to float on the surface.
 
Ok, after extensive reasearch for safety sake on this forum all the while wishing there was a damn picture this is what I came up with. Do I have this right?

View attachment 3470


you will need to run a line from the bow to a stern cleat.
the carabiner(snap) simply clips to the tag line and slides up to the bow.
when you go to pull anchor, drive towards the scotchman until the snap slides
back to the stern, unclip and pull away !
 
If you can't get into Trotac in Victoria to have a look at a complete set up, email Trevor and see if he can send you their drawing of the setup.

IMO, I would stay away from those one way anchor lifting devices. If you give a pull and your anchor doesn't pop, the lifting device will lock onto the anchor line and may get pulled below the surface when you let off. So if you ever had troubles pulling anchor and had to leave your set up and come back later, it may not allow your scotchman to float on the surface.

Yes, Trevor from Trotac has a really good detailed drawing that explains it all.

I agree with Dave - the rings are the way to go, for the reason he mentions, and a few others. Another advantage is that the chain gets pulled all the way through the rings, unlike the puller. That way you don't have to pull up the length of chain and anchor when putting everything into the boat after pulling up your anchor. Just lift you buoy and anchor in, and then pull your chain in. With the puller, you're hauling up your chain with the anchor hanging 20 to 30 feet down. We just started anchoring, and the rings work great.

If you can, go to Trotac. The guys there are great and they can help you understand the whole works and set up a system for you.
 
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Drawing looks about right.

I have used the one way line gizmo ... an old aluminum triangular one, not the black plastic one they sell now. I didn't like that the sliding bolt would stick sometimes, you had to really punch the motor to get it to release (and sometimes had to pull it in to manually release it).

I've switched to ring system, first use a week ago. When you have this, an advantage is that knots and chain can fit through the ring, whereas with 1-way gizmo it has to be clean line only and chain won't fit. However, for the ring system you need something at top of the anchor line, to keep the scotchman away from your boat. The spliced line and eye does this for the 1-way gizmo, but you need something wider diameter than the ring, to hold it in place. And I discovered that a crab float with a knot tied isn't strong enough ... current ripped the knot right through the middle of the crab float, so that the scotchman was right up against top of line at the boat. Not good!

I now clipped on a small scotsman at top of anchor line, bigger than the ring, but not as big as the pulling scotchman.

Maybe hard to picture what I mean....not sure if I can do it justice by drawing though. ;-)
 
Another reason WHY you should go with someones who has done it many a times Ive been reading about the lost anchors latley and scratch my head , this by far is the most dangerous part of halibut fishing as shiat happens fast and troubles just as fast. go out with someone who has done it MANY MANY times not once or twice and ask lots of question the price of a new system starts adding up really fast..

Scott one quick question for you as the statement you said " unclip and pull away " is a bit confusing to me and probablly others if you un clip how can you pull away?????

wolf
 
Another reason WHY you should go with someones who has done it many a times Ive been reading about the lost anchors latley and scratch my head , this by far is the most dangerous part of halibut fishing as shiat happens fast and troubles just as fast. go out with someone who has done it MANY MANY times not once or twice and ask lots of question the price of a new system starts adding up really fast..

Scott one quick question for you as the statement you said " unclip and pull away " is a bit confusing to me and probablly others if you un clip how can you pull away?????

wolf

Should say unclip from the tagline , and then reattach to the stern or ski pole or whatever
and pull the anchor using the power of the boat.
 
WOW ive never done that just drive away and let it slide dont want to touch that thing at all too dangerous but whatever works i guess maybe im to safety first kinda guy??????but I also attach my stern rope mid ship aft and is away from moter and close if I need to cut it (which ive never had too)
 
Should say unclip from the tagline , and then reattach to the stern or ski pole or whatever
and pull the anchor using the power of the boat.

Hi Scott: maybe I'm missing something too....what is the benefit of doing this, versus just leaving it attached to the bow-stern rope by the carabiner?
 
Yes...but carabeaner is attached to bow-stern line at bow

Yup, hard to tell but I drew that as a ring just above the word caribiner. I'm going to take back the retriever for the loop. Thanks for your replies (except you guys bashing my drawing):)
 
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WOW ive never done that just drive away and let it slide dont want to touch that thing at all too dangerous but whatever works i guess maybe im to safety first kinda guy??????but I also attach my stern rope mid ship aft and is away from moter and close if I need to cut it (which ive never had too)


Huh ???, i think we all do it the same way more or less
do you just let the line slide back to the cleat and power into it ?
 
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Drawing looks about right.

I have used the one way line gizmo ... an old aluminum triangular one, not the black plastic one they sell now. I didn't like that the sliding bolt would stick sometimes, you had to really punch the motor to get it to release (and sometimes had to pull it in to manually release it).

I've switched to ring system, first use a week ago. When you have this, an advantage is that knots and chain can fit through the ring, whereas with 1-way gizmo it has to be clean line only and chain won't fit. However, for the ring system you need something at top of the anchor line, to keep the scotchman away from your boat. The spliced line and eye does this for the 1-way gizmo, but you need something wider diameter than the ring, to hold it in place. And I discovered that a crab float with a knot tied isn't strong enough ... current ripped the knot right through the middle of the crab float, so that the scotchman was right up against top of line at the boat. Not good!

I now clipped on a small scotsman at top of anchor line, bigger than the ring, but not as big as the pulling scotchman.

Maybe hard to picture what I mean....not sure if I can do it justice by drawing though. ;-)

I can picture what you are describing. What is a good distance from bow to scotchman?
 
Yes I just let it slide up and pull away sampson braid can more than handle the strain pulling or ancoring its still holding the same weight and you can probally hold a semi up with it :) ill have to see if I have a pic of the side of what I do I dont put it right on the stern for a few reasons most importantlly not near the prop and engine and go stand on the back corner of a boat can be tippy... go mid ship aft less tippy.
there is no reason to unclip and reattach.

It was the way I was taught and way back when when that man was alive he always said use the "kiss" system and be FEN CAREFULL he was a good man if anyone knew him it was Earl hatcher he along with benny poineers of the halibut grounds and there are/were awesome men...
found a pic of how ive done it on my boat ..you can see on the bow where it is and on the mid ship aft where its attached...

and yes lippy make it bigger LOL LOL
thanks

Good luck Wolf
 

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I let the clip come back to the stern and pull...I would never disconnect from bow-stern line first....too much potential for trouble (could be more tension on the line than is apparent, butter-fingers, etc.)....if you are in a jam you can cut the line and be free very quickly. As a backup safety device, I bought a telescoping painters pole and a fold up serrated pruning saw that threads on the end. Just in case I need to deal with a tangle I cannot reach safely (prop/leg, under the keel, etc.)
 
Hi Scott: maybe I'm missing something too....what is the benefit of doing this, versus just leaving it attached to the bow-stern rope by the carabiner?

I do the same thing Craven mentions, attaching the clip to my ski pole when pulling, as I have a fiberglass boat and those side cleats aren't really secured all that well at that point on the hull. Granted I have pulled from the tag line before without problems but I feel more confident on having it attached to the ski bar when pulling.

However, like Wolf said it is more unsafe as you are man-handling the float line for a few seconds and a rogue wave or something could pull it right out of your hand.
 
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