22ft Outrage w/whaler drive - restoration

[myles]

some more progress last weekend and evenings in the week

 

[myles]

Had to fight some osmosis on the pod. Water gets in through the rub rail and the cracks it had. The pod was full of super small checks. chased them all out with a finger sander and filled them with epoxy. I know there are other ways to fix this, but trying to make the repair balance quality and time and budget.. the epoxy will have good adhesion and low shrinkage plus its getting buried in primer, paint and nonskid. there is some vinylester fairing compound on there as well for good measure.

We temp-mounted the gunnels and matched the angle of the hull in order to strengthen the gunnel where the downriggers are mounted. That's a weak point in the design no doubt. If we had more time I would have done that in a few spots. along the gunnel so they can't rip off the boat if someone forgets to set the drag correctly LOL

I did something similar in my 20' Hourston worked great.

 

[Marko]

Mine is standard transom.

I look forward to seeing it in the water again!

 

[myles]

Mine is standard transom.

Those 115’s should do mid 30’s, and troll really nicely. I look forward to seeing it in the water again!

Remember the merc 115 with command thrust is nearly comparable to a few other manufacures 140-150hp fourstrokes. I'd be surprised if all it got was 35mph.

Likely spinning a pair of Enertia props, big blades. I'd be surprised it can't crack 38mph, but heck I've been wrong lots.

The WD tax will be the deciding factor, I'm sure data from others with the same boat is out there on Continuous wave.

 

[Marko]

I was wrong, so edited my posts above.
I reread a bunch of old posts, as well as asked my friend how his ran. Others have got into the 40’s with twin 115’s.
Apologies for the pessimism.

 

[mikep]

I am almost certain it will break 40 and probably do better than that... That fat old tomcat I repowered with those same 115s did like 44 mph with the 19p enertia props. It was a mega dog before with the 90 hondas. I bet you can make 45mph pinned and trimmed with the repowered whaler 22wd. The guardian 22 wd in my back yard did 45 mph easily with the 250 verado before we pulled it off. The wd boats support the 4 stroke outboards better than the regular 22s.

 

[myles]

I am almost certain it will break 40 and probably do better than that... That fat old tomcat I repowered with those same 115s did like 44 mph with the 19p enertia props. It was a mega dog before with the 90 hondas. I bet you can make 45mph pinned and trimmed with the repowered whaler 22wd. The guardian 22 wd in my back yard did 45 mph easily with the 250 verado before we pulled it off. The wd boats support the 4 stroke outboards better than the regular 22s.

I think this will be the way it will go as well with this motor arrangement, if it doesn't break 40 ill have to walk to the plank. It will get the twin's tax but should post similar numbers to that 250hp Verado. The super console and super leaning post are not light but both need very little work so they are going back in. This boat has lots of factory options, as everyone will see when it goes back together- King Ranch of whalers some might say.

 

[myles]

Had some help this weekend. Two guys stripped the super console down, all teak removed and sanded and oiled. They removed all wires and old electrical equipment.
Another guy polished the inside and we even were able to get the nonskid in much better condition than I thought was possible using an experimental and effective method. This boat was beyond oxidized and extremely dirty.
The primer went down half decent considering the conditions.
The fuel tank is nearly done, it's big and beautiful. Tig welds look sharp.

 

[myles]

Few action shots and the start of the cleaning process.

 

[fishinforever]

Looks great! What did you use on the non-skid?

 

[myles]

Looks great! What did you use on the non-skid?

Get yourself a drill, super-duty rubbing compound, and a brush attachment for the drill (lots of cheapo ones on amazon). Makes a heck of a mess but the finished product speaks for itself. A corded drill is essential.

 

[fishinforever]

Awesome thanks, I’ve used the drill and brush attachment on mine with all sorts of cleaners but never got close to your result. I’ll beam some rubbing compound and get to it.
Great work!

 

[myles]

Awesome thanks, I’ve used the drill and brush attachment on mine with all sorts of cleaners but never got close to your result. I’ll beam some rubbing compound and get to it.
Great work!

let me know how it goes, you can start with something less aggressive and work down but since this boat was so trashed I just started with the super-duty rubbing compound 3M. some spots took 2 passes. I bet a brush would work well by hand, go with the grain of the nonskid. It was helpful to go forward and reverse both rotations. For stubborn stains you could also play with ez/on off product that its aggressive stuff be careful.

 

[Rain City]

let me know how it goes, you can start with something less aggressive and work down but since this boat was so trashed I just started with the super-duty rubbing compound 3M. some spots took 2 passes. I bet a brush would work well by hand, go with the grain of the nonskid. It was helpful to go forward and reverse both rotations. For stubborn stains you could also play with ez/on off product that its aggressive stuff be careful.

What did you seal with after?

 

[myles]

What did you seal with after?

Need to find that nonskid wax, it's a special wax that doesn't get slippery.

 

[myles]

let me know how it goes, you can start with something less aggressive and work down but since this boat was so trashed I just started with the super-duty rubbing compound 3M. some spots took 2 passes. I bet a brush would work well by hand, go with the grain of the nonskid. It was helpful to go forward and reverse both rotations. For stubborn stains you could also play with ez/on off product that its aggressive stuff be careful.

I forgot to mention, the process leaves residual everywhere. we used half a bag of microfiber towels, our socks went in the garbage and the need pads where brown from the compound. Once the boat is complete and I can wash it out it will get once more cleaning and then a wash right after with deckwash that should help with residue. at least we have a clean workspace going forward for the clean stuff.

 

[ab1752]

Need to find that nonskid wax, it's a special wax that doesn't get slippery.

I've used Star Brite Non Skid wax and it works great.

 

[Derby]

As Always Myles .. Great work

 

[CiscoCat]

Need to find that nonskid wax, it's a special wax that doesn't get slippery.

How to Wax and Protect Non-Skid Decks - Shurhold Industries, Inc.

shurhold.com

Hey Myles. Ive been following your progress. Looks awesome. I have a 28conquest and 17 Montauk that I’ve restored. This works so great on nonskid. Shurhold has some great products

 

[myles]

How to Wax and Protect Non-Skid Decks - Shurhold Industries, Inc.

shurhold.com

Hey Myles. Ive been following your progress. Looks awesome. I have a 28conquest and 17 Montauk that I’ve restored. This works so great on nonskid. Shurhold has some great products

Thats a great video showing exactly what we did. However this deck was so bad that the finessit 2 and other mild polish didn't make a difference. I always start with the least abrasive products then work down until I get results. Once the boat is rigged we will coat the nonskid with some sort of liquid wax same process as the shurhold vid (excellent resource) that DA polisher is nice but no required to get good results. Those cheapo amz pads only fit the drill which is not DA. Quiet honestly I find the DA polisher to be way to slow on my gel products. With a regular polisher or drill you can get it to shine faster. Im just to impatient to sit on a DA to get bad gel good..save the DA for sanders and polishing paint.

Search drill polishing kit amz and everyone has a drill for 30 bucks your off to the races.