22ft Outrage w/whaler drive - restoration

[myles]

A buddy and me have been spending the winter restoring a neglected old whaler.

Learned a couple cool things in this build. Been humbled a few times as well.

Excited to see it go back together in the next 2 months. Will throw more images up and some explanations etc once I find a faster method.

Boat has OG large console, and full leaning post with sink storage etc. They spared no expense when it was purchased new! Wild what abuse/neglect, poor design, and time will do to a boat.

Keep in mind this build has been taken on with a budget of time and materials. We won't fix everything or make it 10/10 it will be a guide/work boat but it's still going to look nice and be as properly done as time and budget allows.

Alot of rotten wood was removed from gunnels and rear hatch. Once you remove woof from a boat it becomes apparent how easily it becomes compromised and rots. That being said, any core material needs to be carefully considered before you core holes, put in screws etc. It's amazing how water will find a way in the smallest of spaces. Foam will delaminate too but ive never seen woodbugs or ants crawl out of foam core.

more to come..

 

[wildthing]

its looking way better than that now

 

[peteski479]

Hey Myles,
I actually work for Endura Paint and we are just introducing some new Non Skid Deck Coatings in Kit Form and I would like to donate a 2 quart kit for your boat if interested. ( Special rollers, tint able marine white and accelerator if needed in one 2 quart kit )

I need feedback as far as the DIY aspects and this forum is a logical place after reading thru many comments.

We are building our program out in North America but we have a 50 year history in BC so I would like to use the good and bad feedback to make adjustments and build a data base.
TO this point in time I have worked with a few Shipwrights and OEM 's on VCR Island to gain insights on new product development so we can meet everyone's expectations.

We are in our second year of this 'rebranded ' program and we have created 2 new deck coatings but I do need some non biased applications from people like yourself who have experience with solvent borne - 2 component paints.

You will see in this attached picture how white was tinted which I did during trials so it is not perfect but hard for me to be objective when coating 3 x 5 inch panels .... the texture can also be adjusted subject to you preferences but this is generally going to be a pebbly surface appearance.

My Endura EMAIL - pdeys@endura.ca
if that suits anyone


**** I was following something on the Web which brought me to this forum so if I am out of line here with my approach then you all can abuse me and I will correct. ***

 

[myles]

 

[myles]

Hey Myles,
I actually work for Endura Paint and we are just introducing some new Non Skid Deck Coatings in Kit Form and I would like to donate a 2 quart kit for your boat if interested. ( Special rollers, tint able marine white and accelerator if needed in one 2 quart kit )

I need feedback as far as the DIY aspects and this forum is a logical place after reading thru many comments.

We are building our program out in North America but we have a 50 year history in BC so I would like to use the good and bad feedback to make adjustments and build a data base.
TO this point in time I have worked with a few Shipwrights and OEM 's on VCR Island to gain insights on new product development so we can meet everyone's expectations.

We are in our second year of this 'rebranded ' program and we have created 2 new deck coatings but I do need some non biased applications from people like yourself who have experience with solvent borne - 2 component paints.

You will see in this attached picture how white was tinted which I did during trials so it is not perfect but hard for me to be objective when coating 3 x 5 inch panels .... the texture can also be adjusted subject to you preferences but this is generally going to be a pebbly surface appearance.

My Endura EMAIL - pdeys@endura.ca
if that suits anyone


**** I was following something on the Web which brought me to this forum so if I am out of line here with my approach then you all can abuse me and I will correct. ***

Interested for sure. We have ordered Alex Seal 501 top coat as the pod is being painted and color-matched to the hull along with the gunnels. It was too far gone to re gel it with ease. the pod has lots of osmosis which I have almost beaten with the epoxy. That's the drag with whalers when the water gets in, like opening up pandoras box!

 

[myles]

more pictures

 

[myles]

some more...

 

[myles]

..

 

[peteski479]

Wow lots of work ongoing.

I am sending these kits to our Endura Surrey Branch in the next week or 2 so if you send me your details on my email I will follow up when you are ready to apply. a 2 quart kit should cover 60 -90 sq feet subject to your preferences so we wont leave you hanging to try and stretch it if we need another kit.

 

[tubber]

Very cool.
I have an 11 and a 17 both tillers, so a 22 would be the next logical choice.
Could a person reach the tiller with a whaler drive attached? Think panga or Columbia River alum tiller.
Wish I had your skills, space and lifting capability.
Looking great.

 

[Ceto]

Wow! Outstanding work! I’ve got an ‘84 Outrage 22’ that needs the same attention Thanks for posting your journey and photos. Is there anyway I could speak directly with you about some of the details? Where in BC are you? Thanks

 

[Marko]

I remember looking at that boat when I was sitting on Bowen Island. Great to see someone has chosen to bring it back to life!

I ended up buying a 1984 Outrage Cuddy 22, out of Michigan.

Have you researched the Whaler Drive on Continuouswave and Whalercentral?
Fuel tank size and placement is another good detail to study.

 

[myles]

some more...

Probably the weakest link in the older whaler is the through hull fittings. They have an o-ring on each end of the custom flared fittings. No glue, no sikiflex no protection of the foam if the o ring fails. A WTF moment for sure when I removed the old ones. if you have an older whaler and want to do one thing to prevent water ingress i'd start right there. Cut out the old ones, dig back the foam..pack the hole full of thickened epoxy resin then drill it out then put in the new fitting with a good amount of sikifelx & an o ring. The flare tool is readily available on Amazon. The trick is cutting the fitting to the right length to ensure a nice flare at each end. Needless to say, it took me 6hr of messing around to get happy results and about 20" of wasted tube.

 

[myles]

Very cool.
I have an 11 and a 17 both tillers, so a 22 would be the next logical choice.
Could a person reach the tiller with a whaler drive attached? Think panga or Columbia River alum tiller.
Wish I had your skills, space and lifting capability.
Looking great.

We joked about putting a big single on a tiller and just keeping it open Penga style. That would suit the budget...and be pretty fishy

 

[myles]

some more...

probably the weakest link in the whaler is the through hull fittings. The have a o-ring

Wow! Outstanding work! I’ve got an ‘84 Outrage 22’ that needs the same attention Thanks for posting your journey and photos. Is there anyway I could speak directly with you about some of the details? Where in BC are you? Thanks

DM sent

 

[myles]

I remember looking at that boat when I was sitting on Bowen Island. Great to see someone has chosen to bring it back to life!

I ended up buying a 1984 Outrage Cuddy 22, out of Michigan.

Have you researched the Whaler Drive on Continuouswave and Whalercentral?
Fuel tank size and placement is another good detail to study.

We looked at the WD details. They like twins regular shaft is what I gather. The boat will be powered with 115hp merc with a larger gearcase. It should be low to mid 40'smph top end I believe.

I have a new fuel tank being made, it's a direct clone of the old one. It will get acid-washed, and primed with some sort of epoxy. We welded large feet on the bottom of the tank so it can breathe well and not sit on the floor, the feet are made from thicker aluminum so it will outlive the tank. The old tank was foamed in, and for being 35 years old it was done but I was impressed how good it still was considering it had wet foam all around it.

We are installing a bilge pump in the tank area as well, the old design had no sign of any water management in the sealed tank area.

Outrage Cuddy a cool boat nice to have protection from the elements making it a 4 season boat.

 

[Marko]

I agree on the through hulls… but that’s not what I’m getting at.

Not sure what you have in mind for power, but this might be useful to know: The Whalerdrive improves the ride of the boat due to added running surface, but this comes at the cost of reduced efficiency. More power is needed to get the same top speed as a standard (non-WD) notched transom. Given the cost of fuel and engines these days, I'd ditch the Whalerdrive and replace it with a more conventional bracket.

Fuel tank: These things came with 72, 77 and 129 US Gallon tanks. The 129 gallon tank, which this boat probably has, makes them ride low in the stern. Smaller is better, mounted a bit forward, provided you can get the needed range.

 

[Marko]

I did some digging to find the old thread.
A single 225hp on a standard transom 22 has a speed potential of about 48 mph. Same engine on a Whaler Drive 22 about 42 mph. Both considering a light hull without bottom paint.
I have a new single Mercury V6 200 on mine (standard transom, no paint) and it'll do about 42 mph.

 

[Alex_c]

We joked about putting a big single on a tiller and just keeping it open Penga style. That would suit the budget...and be pretty fishy

A tiller would be awesome, but having a windshield when it’s raining, or rough water and cold outside is pretty awesome too. A bimini and a kicker with a remote steer with the tiller would be sweet.

 

[myles]

I did some digging to find the old thread.
A single 225hp on a standard transom 22 has a speed potential of about 48 mph. Same engine on a Whaler Drive 22 about 42 mph. Both considering a light hull without bottom paint.
I have a new single Mercury V6 200 on mine (standard transom, no paint) and it'll do about 42 mph.

Does yours have a WD? I know the WD sacrifices performance and are heavy as well, but we want to keep this boat as factory as possible.

Fuel tank doesn't matter on size, it just matters if you fill it up. I'm sure the tank was the big model. The boat had pair 150hp 2 strokes before but never ran it. I'm sure it went like a raped ape with 300hp. The 115's will be on the low end but the price was right, and lots of surface area for the solid hole shot and trolling on the 115 won't be bad.
i've been on a 22 without WD and with a L4 verado (200hp) they did like 42-43mph
The old 225yam maybe got an additional MPH like 45 on the 22' w/o WD. Those boats had to be soggy and heavy they had bottom paint too.

This boat doesn't feel that heavy, and it did sit covered with holes in the bottom for about 6yrs so its dried out a bit.

I'm curious to see how it all works out!