Wiring Overhaul

thats better but pointless. waay too complicated. just do single lifepo4 start and house bank tied together and be done with it. you dont need a 3 way switch/dc to dc or smartshunt nonsense. keep wiring simple. keep devices and points of failure low. minimize your runs. dont mix chemistries.
 
dude ive tried this at least 3X and had problems 3X. the programming on the add a battery circuit only works with AGM or lead acids. it will flatline your lifepo4. ive even confirmed it with both the yellow and black kits.
what you should do it just do lifepo4 for both and add a sterling APD. https://www.sterling-power-usa.com/SterlingPower12voltalternatorprotectiondevice.aspx
Ditch the overcomplicated ACR. just go full lithium. full lithium works very nicely and as long as you use a good fusing system (class T) on terminals to the max rating of your BMS you will be ok. dump the victron smartshunt. with bluetooth smart lifepo4s you dont need it. dump the overcomplicated wiring. just do 0AWG from both lithiums to a blue seas dualbus hub at the back and one more in the front. then branch off those. one main trunk line, one bus connecting the batteries and everything will work great. use this as your start battery - https://dakotalithium.com/product/d...ar-truck-battery-plus-deep-cycle-performance/ and this one as your house - https://ca.renogy.com/pro-12v-200ah-smart-lithium-iron-phosphate-battery-w-bluetooth-self-heating/
ive got 4 boats with full lithium and zero problems for any of them. rip the lead bandaid off.
So no dc to dc charger at all if you run the sterling charge protector? I think the price of the Dakota batteries is a sticking point, I can see the advantages but it’s a 5 year replacement and 6 additional 30% off a new one, pretty similar to a lot of battery manufactures.

The price of these Weize starting batteries is crazy low https://amzn.to/4cXrj7v # ad

Not the warranty and quality of Dakota I don’t think but initial reviews look ok.

This Dakota would likely do the starting job just fine and be good for most engines https://amzn.to/3WEqoD1

https://www.relionbattery.com/products/lithium/rb100-hp look good owned by Brunswick but warrant to only 3 years replacement
 
no dc to dc needed - all lithium can handle it. i dont recommend relions - i had one leak. dakota and renogy is what i run.
 
no dc to dc needed - all lithium can handle it. i dont recommend relions - i had one leak. dakota and renogy is what i run.
i was thinking you still want a dc to dc to change the charge profile from the alternator
 
the only worry is that poor quality alternators cause BMS disconnects. in this case we are using outboards or diesel engines with fairly good quality alternators which use engine block heatsinks so the risk of overheating is very low and its ok to run them. the sterling APD is your safety if the BMS disconnect occurs. lithium BMSes can handle a fairly decent amount of variance especially since the lithium battery will suck down pretty much all the amps you give it. the thing about lithium is you are trying to protect the alternator not protect the battery. the battery can handle everything you throw at it. if it cant handle something then the BMS will protect it.
 
all a DC to DC does is reduce voltage and act like a second BMS. its not going to protect against battery disconnects. that will fry your alternator.
 
all a DC to DC does is reduce voltage and act like a second BMS. its not going to protect against battery disconnects. that will fry your alternator.
i guess it is better to keep a lead acid as a starting battery
 
I just run 3 group 27 Kirkland deep cycles. One for start and two for house.
Manual Perko switch. Hasn't failed me in 16 years. Changed them out this spring just because.
 
or you can ... you know.... spend $100 on an APD and have a full lithium system which wont die on you for the next 10 years....probably 20. and not have to carry a ton of weight on the boat. and not have to deal with any power shortage while on the boat.
 
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