What do you do with your gas during winter boat storage?

AB3

Member
Curious what everyone does with their "extra" gas when they put the boat away for the winter.
I'm running an outboard with two external/above deck gas tanks and have a fair bit of gas left in both tanks. Is it preferable to use the gas into my car? ...or maybe add a fuel stabilizer to the fuel in the tanks instead? Boat would likely be off the water for the next 6 months or so.
Thanks!
 
Put stabilizer in the tanks and run it though the motors and then siphon out and run it in the car
 
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Great article here on the condensation myth. Bottom line, the very small amount of water in the tank was much preferred over a tank of stale gas that wasn't that good to begin with. Better to start the new boating season with a tank full of fresh gas.


The Myth of Condensation in Fuel Tanks

by David Pascoe
Frequently we hear it said that the cause of water in fuel tanks is due to condensation. I have long doubted this assertion but the issue has come up so frequently that I was finally motivated to try prove to the point. The basis of my belief or assumption is that:
  • There isn't enough air volume within a tank to hold much vapor.
  • On average, tanks are half full, further reducing volume
  • The amount of water vapor in air is very small, even at 100% humidity
  • Conditions aren't right to cause condensation in a fuel tank
Research produced the following values for the maximum amount of liquid water in air at the following temperatures:

30C/86F 30 grams/cubic meter
20C/50F 17 grams/cubic meter
10C/13F 9 grams/cubic meter
There are 28 grams per ounce, so 30 grams = 1.07 oz; 17 grams = 0.6428 oz.

A cubic meter equals 264 gallons of liquid volume, therefore:

  • A 200 gallon tank = 0.76 cubic meter.
  • At 86F, an empty 200 gallon tank could contain 22.8 grams of water vapor, or 0.81 oz.
  • At 50F, an empty 200 gallon tank could contain 12.92 grams of water vapor, or 0.46 oz.
Note that this is the maximum amount of water vapor that a completely empty tank could contain, in neither case a full ounce of water.

In order to condense water out of the atmosphere a surface must be much colder than the air. The problem for the condensation in tank theory is; how do we end up with a fuel tank that is much colder than the air? One way would be to have a very cold day that suddenly warms up dramatically, but when does this ever happen? The weather can turn cold very fast, but does not suddenly get very warm.

Aluminum is second only to copper for rapid heat transfer properties; it will therefore adjust to atmospheric temperature changes quickly. Gasoline and diesel fuel, like water absorb [sic] heat and cold slowly. Thus one might expect to see sweating on the outside of a tank as the day warms up from cold mornings, but do we? Well, I can say that after 35 years of inspecting boats, I've rarely seen tanks sweating. Note: Sweating may be likely to occur with boats in very cold waters when warm days are encountered.

This issue first came up a number of years ago over a question of whether internal engine rusting could be due to condensation caused by sudden temperature changes as from day to night and vice versa. Since that time, inspection of hundreds of engines showed that rust only occurs on the underside of valve covers due to water contamination of the oil. Very few engines have rusty undersides of valve covers, thereby proving the point that ice cold engine blocks in the morning don’t sweat as it warms up during the day. If that is true, then how could it be true that fuel tanks sweat?

My answer is that they don’t and these calculations prove it. My initial assumptions were correct. You do not need to store or lay up your boat with full fuel tanks. If you are getting water, it is getting there some other way.

Contaminated Fuel
Years ago we had serious fuel contamination problems due to underground steel storage tanks that rusted and leaked. Today all tanks are fiberglass, so this no longer happens (that I know of). However, those underground tanks do have fill plates on the ground surface (usually the parking lot) that can leak just like your boat deck plate. As the marina pumps its tanks nearly dry before the next fuel delivery, those who buy fuel from the near empty tank are the ones that are going to get the water (because it's pumped from the bottom of the tank). This despite the fact that the dock fuel pump has a water separating filter. I've opened the panels on occasion and have found the sight bowls completely filled with water, so at this point the water is being passed on to the customer. Next time you buy diesel, ask to see the filter at the pump! You have to remove the lower pump panel to see it.

However, it is important to note if you're getting water from your fuel retailer, chances are that it won't be a small amount. Most likely it will be a lot and your filters will fill up and engines crap out post-haste.

Leaking Fill Caps
By far the most common cause of contaminated boat tanks are deck fill caps that leak. Most of these things are stupidly mounted flat on decks which may puddle with water. The cap has a tiny little O-ring that is supposed to seal and keep water out. DOES IT? I wouldn't depend on one of these things unless I could prove that it doesn't leak. Check the condition of the o-ring and weather it is sealing.

One way to check positively is to clean the o-ring seat thoroughly; next apply some black or any color paint to the o-ring and screw the cap in place, tight. Then remove it and see if the paint has been completely transferred to the ring seat. If not, you now know where the problem is.

Another problem is the simple failure to seat the cap fully after refueling. This actually happens a lot, so check to see if the cap is loose.

The Tank Vent
Improperly located fuel tank vent fittings are one of the top causes of water getting into tanks. When this is the cause, if you are a salt water boater, then it will be salt water in your tank. A fuel tank vent fitting on the side of the hull should be angled down and aftward. If angled in any other direction, you've got a problem that needs fixing. Watch out for deteriorated plastic and zinc alloy fittings; some of these things deteriorate incredibly fast.

The vent line should have a riser loop on the inside. That is, it travels upward first, then downward. If not, that is another potential problem.

Check the Fuel Gauge Sender
One final possibility is the fuel gauge sender plate on top of the fuel tank. These are often made of steel or have steel screws that can rust away, a situation I've seen several times. Is water puddling on the tank top? Test all screws with a screw driver to make sure they are securely seated.
 
I agree with the above article. I leave the boat over the winter with a small amount of fuel. I run stabilizer through it. My mechanic says there’s no need to fill up your tanks. I don’t fill them and I’ve had no issues.
 
I fill mine and add stabilizer then use the boat a few times during the winter...don't have to worry about running to a station for fuel at the last minute. I also fire the engines up at least once a month and let them run long enough to come up to temp and get oil on the cylinder walls and bearings. Also keeps the control cables moving and move the helm around too. Boats hate to sit and not be run at all.
 
Awesome info. It's my 1st year owning a boat and I want to make sure it runs next year as well as it did this year.
thanks for the help
 
I drive mine year round, but i don't put much miles on the kicker from about November to Feb so I disconnect the quick connect on it, connect another one with a hose stub and dip it into a Jerry can and run a good dose of stabilized fuel through it. That way i don't have to spend a fortune on stabilizing 300 liters of fuel. Those tiny carbs are ultra fussy with clogs, particularly if you run regular fuel. If you buy the mid grade colored stuff it does not have ethanol in it, and that helps.
 
The idea is to prevent your fuel from going skanky ...all your fuel. After a couple months gas starts to degrade and the octane levels drop. You can do 80 gallons of fuel (or your 300 litres) with one bottle of stabilizer from Crappy Tire. I picked up 2 bottles on sale last weekend for about $10.00 each and will add to lawn mower, pressure washer, chain saw etc.
 
Leave tank half full with treasted gas that has run through motors. Spring fill with fresh gas. Works for me.

http://www.starbrite.com/category/marine
I use the same stuff and have never had a problem. I also fire up the motors at least once a month. I run some pre mix fuel through my motors with stabilizer instead of fogging oil and use the pre mix when I fire them up every month
 
A half tank in my boat is 70gal. That's to much stabilizer to buy. I pull it out with a shaker siphon and dump.p it in the car. Then stabilize what's left. My injectors do not like water and have had some issues in past.
 
I run portable tanks, and as the end of the season approaches, I will add the appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer to one of the tanks and use that tank for my return run to the boat ramp and to flush the engine once I get home. I use the non stabilized fuel for running out and fishing. In this way there will always be stabilized fuel in the filters and engine, should the weather stop me from getting out later on. Once I perform my storage maintenance, I will use the remaining fuel in my car. Fresh fuel in the spring.
 
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