What Did You Do To Your Boat This Week?

Nice work on changing out the impeller. These days the recommended interval for changing out the impeller and also thermostats is 300 hours. I put 300 hrs/season on my engines so both are now on my annual maintenance list. Same too for changing both internal and external zincs. Easy to forget about the internals, and the pic below shows you how much they wear out from doing their job after 300 hours.
 

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searun said:
Nice work on changing out the impeller. These days the recommended interval for changing out the impeller and also thermostats is 300 hours. I put 300 hrs/season on my engines so both are now on my annual maintenance list. Same too for changing both internal and external zincs. Easy to forget about the internals, and the pic below shows you how much they wear out from doing their job after 300 hours.
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Good point in the zincs. Mine is on a trailer but I did check and clean them off with a wire brush. I should probably just replace. I am not sure if my Mercury has internal zincs. Do all engines or is it specific to manufacture?
 
Marley said:
Good point in the zincs. Mine is on a trailer but I did check and clean them off with a wire brush. I should probably just replace. I am not sure if my Mercury has internal zincs. Do all engines or is it specific to manufacture?
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Many of the mercs do not (none of mine do) I don't know about the 90-115.
 
I installed Permatrim hydrofoils today today. I don't have tabs so am hoping that these keep my stern up a bit better when loaded so I can slow my planing speed down. I am hoping for a bit better fuel burn as well. I don't care about top end. I did up performance runs with a spreadsheet prior to install and I will do it again when I get her back in the water. It's going to be interesting to see what the numbers show.IMG_8546.JPGIMG_8547.JPG
 
Tomfoolery said:
I installed Permatrim hydrofoils today today. I don't have tabs so am hoping that these keep my stern up a bit better when loaded so I can slow my planing speed down. I am hoping for a bit better fuel burn as well. I don't care about top end. I did up performance runs with a spreadsheet prior to install and I will do it again when I get her back in the water. It's going to be interesting to see what the numbers show.View attachment 116786View attachment 116787
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Whatcha got there for the boat and power? Looks pretty sweet
 
Will be very interesting to hear more about how the performance post installation was compared to your data. Fingers crossed for a good improvement for you.
 
Took my Honda out for a very long sea trail. Never buy an engine without a warranty until you have run it up to temp, let it idle for a while and run it again. That was advice I needed for the first outboard I ever bought, so wouldn't sell one any other way. We ran from Esquimalt to 3 miles past Albert Head, started taking a few over the bow, so headed for home and struck a deal. We removed her and all the rigging in under 3 hours and loaded her in a pickup truck. If I had a hoist, I would be inspired enough to throw mine on with the help of a buddy but I'm going to try and be patient and hope my mechanic frees up.
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Annual haul out for servicing, polishing, and waxing. Mechanic found some water in the stern drives so I have to replace the drive seals. I don't think they have ever been done so 20 years and 1500 hours not bad. Rubber just wears out and gets hard.
2 years ago had the bottom sanded down to gelcoat and then epoxy barrier coat with new Micron CSC. 2 years later and bottom is still good. Don't need to add paint. Was painting every year before as it was not really sticking to old bottom paint. Its a costly procedure but well worth it.
I do have to paint the drives every year.
For a 20 year old boat it sure shines up nice. Commander used top quality gelcoats.

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Doubleheader said:
VVT on the 175/200, not on the 150. Once you’re on step you’d not likely know the difference, but the vvt shows up when you’re climbing mountains offshore.
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Where did you find that out? It seems inconsistent in Suzuki's marketing if the vvt is in the Mechanical but it looks like it's definetly in the 150 fly by wire. Global shows Mechanical 150a having it, but Suzuki.ca only mentions it for the the 150ap fly by wire? https://www.globalsuzuki.com/marine...the engine to,enjoy the power and performance.
Pineapple Express said:
What's that big transducer hiding under there @kaelc ? Is it an Airmar TM185? If so, what height do you have it set at relative to the bottom edge of the hull?
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It is an Airmar that came with the boat, but I don't have it dialled in, the tag was missing, so I guessed which 1kw one it is in my Lowrance settings. You reminded me that an SFBC member is certified in Airmar. I need to get him to take a look. I can snap you a picture of how it is set up.

Tomfoolery said:
That's a big transducer! I really want to upgrade my P66 for deep drop fishing but the things are just so dang expensive!
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They come up used fairly often, and right now every eBay seller seems to be taking offers. I have a Garmin adapter cable for one if you need it!
 
Sir Reel said:
Annual haul out for servicing, polishing, and waxing. Mechanic found some water in the stern drives so I have to replace the drive seals. I don't think they have ever been done so 20 years and 1500 hours not bad. Rubber just wears out and gets hard.
2 years ago had the bottom sanded down to gelcoat and then epoxy barrier coat with new Micron CSC. 2 years later and bottom is still good. Don't need to add paint. Was painting every year before as it was not really sticking to old bottom paint. Its a costly procedure but well worth it.
I do have to paint the drives every year.
For a 20 year old boat it sure shines up nice. Commander used top quality gelcoats.

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Looks so new I was wondering Is that a 2026?
 
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