Tuna tackle

I really really like this line for leaders. While most lines up to 80 or so # test will tie knots well I find this line really limp thus being easy to tie knots in the higher # test. This leader can be purchased in all kinds of weights but I especially like it for tying knots with the 200#test. I use a uni knot which seams to have a good shelf life for storage and re use. I find this easier than crimping. It's fast to tie and very reliable IMO. Most stores don't have it in stock but will bring it in for you if you ask. The price is good too. Only problem is the format it comes in. I have been putting it on a spool for use but next time maybe I will poke a hole in the centre of the bag to draw it from. Open to suggestions for I have ruined the spool trying to get it in a hurry while fishing. Pnt and method in TOFINO will have it soon. I broke down and got some of this in fluorocarbon 80# test. 40$. I cant stop.
 
Sculpin said:
Finally put it all to bed and will be stashed at the ready for when the stars align.

Amazing it all fit's into this little pile.



I will look more into the chunk bait rigs for sure and I really appreciate all the comments and advice.


I know every time I go into PNT they say the commercial guys use the green and purple lures. I own 2 of them. Never run em. Has anyone run a full spread of the green and purple clones?
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Good God, man. You don't have nearly enough gear! Get out there and buy some more ASAP!! ;)
 
Not the same species of tuna, but evidence of chunking working when trolling did not: a couple of yellowfin tuna we chunked up in the Bahamas last week with 25ft 50# fluoro leaders and 7/0 circle hooks. 42 and 47lbs Both fish had more than a dozen chunks in the belly when we cleaned them.

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Nicely done. I really want to try the chunking thing out this year. I just bought 44 lbs of bulk herring and might go get some more!!!
 
From what I'm hearing a little south of me, the mackeral are getting thick in the warmer water. I'm thinking I might target mackeral some this summer and vacuum pack up a bunch of it for chunk bait.
 
Homemade insulated slush bucket with insulated lid. $50 This will bring me a bit more ice and a place to pre cool before packing in ice. Worth a try anyways.
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Birdsnest said:
Homemade insulated slush bucket with insulated lid. $50 This will bring me a bit more ice and a place to pre cool before packing in ice. Worth a try anyways.
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I like it. Anything to help keep that slush from melting too fast. What does the lid look like?

Oh yeah, just got back from Victoria and went to &*@$ing Trotac again LOL!........10 more lures. I think this addiction is worse than heroin!
 
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Hey! backpack pad foam! great idea - anything blue and I'm game. I used mine as a bleed/rinse bucket with the wash down hose running in the bottom. Do you fill with water n ice and just let the blood build up? or drain and refill after awhile?
I like the bloody deck pics but I would rather have the blood washed away than in the bilge.
 
I am not sure how it will go with the fish handling on deck. I "plan" on bleeding in 5 gallon pails for 5 mins then possibly take the heads and guts away then quality time in the above slush bucket for up to a half hour or so then pack in ice. But I know this system will not work unless you scratch numbers on the fish so that you can keep track of them because, well, you know how it goes, two triple headers in 30 minutes and the fish get mixed up a bit. I think that when the ice is all melted in the slush bucket and it gets up around 3 C i will pull out half of the water and add ice. I am not sure how that will go but I hope to find out soon.

Unfortunately I do not have self bailing decks so blood on deck has to be kept to an absolute minimum. Blood in the bilge is the devil.

The lid is lined on the inside with the camping foam. I think I may paint it white because it is black.

Maybe its time for a thread on cooling tunas. I know we have been all over it before but its lost in some 60 pages of tuna talk from last year haha. I need a refresher discussion.
 
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tykkyt e blue said:
Hey! backpack pad foam! great idea - anything blue and I'm game. I used mine as a bleed/rinse bucket with the wash down hose running in the bottom. Do you fill with water n ice and just let the blood build up? or drain and refill after awhile?
I like the bloody deck pics but I would rather have the blood washed away than in the bilge.
Click to expand...


Always a good idea to bleed on the deck first, then after a 15-30 minute air cool-down, put in slurry. If you put them into the slurry right when you catch them, your ice will melt away in a heartbeat. They are usually around 85-90 degrees when they hit the deck.
 
x2 we hang tha 'cores until the blood stops flowing, then to the blood slushy. last much longer.
 
Here is a good description of what some of the more popular attractors are designed for......

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The Splashing Float w/Lead is designed for trolling on the surface. The drag of the water against the "wings" of the float causes the body of the float to "dance" setting up a real splashing commotion near the trailing lures. The enticing sounds and white water produced by this float imitate the sounds of a shoal of small fish. The float jumps out in the air when a fish bites the lure. Sized from 240 to 360 mm.​
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[TD="align: left"] The Characteristics of the Splashing Float w/Lead is the metal wings fixed to the body. The white waves produced by the Splashing Float will entice a fish to the surface.[/TD]
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Here is a good description of the dive boards made by Yozuri.........

diver.jpg


The Diving Board is designed for trolling in upper and middle depths. The board dives with wiggling and wobbling actions, it gives the lure lifelike action. The board is overturned and goes up when a fish bites the lure.

K-Type is most suitable for migratory fish and Bluefin Tuna in the upper and the middle stratum. Sized from 180 to 360 mm.
 
Easy Splash Birds:
I have been making these for a few years and the nice thing about these is they all work, and can be made to run straight, slightly left or slighly right. I am now running 6 of these but only lefts or rights.
Cut the shape out on wood around one inch thick or slightly less. Can be cedar or hard wood.

Drill holes in the bottoms for lead.

Fill with lead.

Glue the wings in and make sure they are cantered and level. I use polyurethane glue it waterproof and stick to aluminum. The wing is 3/4 inch or 5/16 inch wide and 4.5 inches across.


Sand the lead down level but when pouring the lead try to no make it higher that level with the wood. Fill with latex wood filler. Trim the polyurathane glue off. Paint first coat with latex paint. other coats can be painted with whatever.

Drill holes for rigging. two holes at the front, one through the side for rigging left and right and one vertical on the front and back for rigging straight.


Rigg with tuna twin for your desired direction of pull. Its a good idea to label the direction remembering that this stuff is labeled right and left facing the back of the boat. Paint your favourite colour. I will try these white. One of these at the store is $68. I just had one in my hands that a buddy had and it was so heavy I am sure it would sink. I guess that the weight pushes those wings down making lots of splasing. My splash good but I will make my next ones heavier. Easy.
 
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A buddy of mine is getting a high persentage of fish using these. They are the best splashers I have ever seen but they are 10 feet long without the lure at the end and the are a common participant in tangles on deck. I would like to have some but I think I would dummy run them so I would never have to bring them to the boat.


 
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