Franko,
Just take them back and use your downrigger rod holders. Been doing that for 25 years and I've never broke one yet, had fish up to 150lb. Just make sure the drag tension is good. With the money you save you can buy lunch!
Although Barrie's solution earned him lunch and is as simple as it gets, here are some pics of a stupid Yank solution. Probably could through bolt on a horizontal plane as well but I chose vertical.
My boat has the same rails and I tried the intertube thing and it didn't work. What did work was to back off the bolts and use a drift to push them back till some of the curve in the rail was inside the mount. I then tightened the bolts and so far it has held it's position. So in sentinels picture my mounts would be back a inch or so. I still have intertube in there also if that matters.
I used black hockey tape on mine. Wrap the rail a quarter inch less than the width of the base and you can't see it after tightening the stews up. It has a grippier feel than duct tape. Worked great.
Guys, I found this stuff at Cdn Tire called Magic Tape. I have no idea if it's magic or not, but it is a vinyl tape that fuses to itself. I added a few wraps of this tape to the rail before putting the mount back on. Tested them out last weekend and it works great. No more slippage.
Guys, I found this stuff at Cdn Tire called Magic Tape. I have no idea if it's magic or not, but it is a vinyl tape that fuses to itself. I added a few wraps of this tape to the rail before putting the mount back on. Tested them out last weekend and it works great. No more slippage.
Rubber and lock tite the nuts on tighten like crazy. Also utilize different rod holders for salmon vs halibut. Changes the fulcrum point of leverage just enough. And on the safe side tie a safety line to your halibut reel, I've been doing this for years and never lost a rod because of it. Just inspect the nubs for wear from the side pull when doing lots of downrigging and change out as required.
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