Get the stainless ones from @ship happensOK thanks guys answer is they break. Sometimes don't. Still on fence.
Has anyone on here put on the Njord solid aluminum spools and run 18lbs on the 1106? Maybe might try that first.
Maybe I can pick up few of these counters in meantime and see what's breaking them. Some conformal coating on board and goretex vent may fix the water intrusion issue. Hopefully that is what is causing it.
Hard to say not my design.
Tried this today. Didn't work on the on/off issue. I investigated further and noticed that the light switch button was broken and corroded. That's between the clear plastic cover and the backing which is all part of the thinner lens which is glued to the face of the thicker clear plastic board. You can even unplug that whole assembly from the main board and the rigger is still turning in as soon as the battery is installed. No goodThe digital scotty counters that I repaired two years ago are working fine and on the original batteries installed after the repair. My boat and the down riggers are in the sun on saltwater all summer which subjects them to a lot of heat cool cycles which I believe is the primary reason for the seal breaking between the plastic lens and the counter body. If you have the time here it is again and it is a very simple procedures. I removed the lens from the body of the counter. The lens came off both the defective counters relatively easy, by pushing my pocket knife blade between the lens and the black body. It seemed unusually easy, since the counter depends on the seal between the lens and the body to protect the electronics from moisture and salt. Then I removed the lens the electronic component's (one simple board) dropped out easily. I washed down the board, body and lens with an aerosol electronic cleaner and let them sun dry for about 20 minutes. Then I popped the board back in the body which is very simple and silicone the lens on to the body and rapped a couple of elastics around the body and the lens. I used Ultra Black Silicone used for gaskets in automotives (because I had it). The black worked perfect but it did uglified the counter a bit as the black shows on the perimeter of the lens, where clear would look OEM. I installed the two repaired counters back on the down riggers and they have worked perfectly for two and a half seasons. I think that this procedure may even solve the reset/on off button problem. P.S. I have gotten used to the black silicon between the lens and the body and it now looks OEM to me. I would stick with the Ultra Black Silicone it is expensive but it's very tuff.
I still wouldn't trade them for the old style.Wow! Scotty really needs to come up with a better solution here - long overdue! I have won 3 digital DR's in fishing derbies over the years and I have sold all 3 as I did not want to deal with this longstanding quality/functionality issue.![]()
yep that caught me out was loading a buddies rigger up and did not notice till all 300 meters of 21 strand 200lb braid was on his spool.....guess he can go fishing deep now with his 18lber's .....lol"M" means it is reading in meters instead of feet. Try pressing both buttons at the same time to toggle between the two.
Trolling for blackcod....it's a new thing.yep that caught me out was loading a buddies rigger up and did not notice till all 300 meters of 21 strand 200lb braid was on his spool.....guess he can go fishing deep now with his 18lber's .....lol