rigger question # 5

[tailout]

That sounds like alot of fun.

 

[wolf]

Yes definatly put a washer under that as a normal bolt will crush the plastic and crack it sorry forgot to put that in there but like I said get a torgue head or an allan key bolt to deter any thief from taking your swivals.

Hope that helps Wolf

 

[Mongoose]

quote:Originally posted by wolf

Hey mongoose if you put them on I bet I could tourge them off no problem LOL



Wolf

hahaahah.... i was very generous when i put the locktite in there

 

[Mongoose]

if you want them to be even more secure put epoxy in the hole the allen key goes in, and also having different sized ones helps too

 

[scott craven]

quote:Originally posted by Mongoose

if you want them to be even more secure put epoxy in the hole the allen key goes in, and also having different sized ones helps too

i hope you never have to get them off !

 

[dohboy]

Hey lastchance, when u put switches for your riggers, did u use a switch for each rigger??

 

[Last Chance]

quote:Originally posted by dohboy

Hey lastchance, when u put switches for your riggers, did u use a switch for each rigger??

I pulled heavy guage wire right up to my electrical panel. Everything goes there, that way, if there is a problem, there is only one place to look. No butt connectors, no inlines, just righ there.

 

[Last Chance]

quote:Originally posted by Mongoose

if you want them to be even more secure put epoxy in the hole the allen key goes in, and also having different sized ones helps too

The epoxy will pop right out, epoxy goes for a dump in the sun. My answer to that one was to countersink pan-head alen screws in, and trill out the alen head part. That way, you cant get 'em with vice grips or anything.

 

[dohboy]

ok i understand that part , but in an earlier post u had said u use a switch so u can the power when not in use, i was wondering do u need a switch for each one or will one be strong enough, sorry i need this explained better but u know how it is the beer slows me down[]

 

[Last Chance]

No sweat. I used a 25 amp breaker for each one, but I'm sure you could put both of 'em on a big 40 amp switch, they call for 25 amps each.

 

[tubbed out]

Well I just finnished my install , took my time did a real tidy job .. thanks to all who helped ..

hope sundays nice ,, gonna give em a try

tubbed

 

[dohboy]

One last question, my electrics came with the right angle mounts and of course the plain jane tilt, i can use either of these on my boat is one better than the other? they will mount in the same place regardless, just wondering mounting strength is one better, doing the old head scratch out there, maybe i should grab a cold one to fix the dilema,
tks doh

 

[Last Chance]

The plane jane tilt is plenty strong, but if you put 'em on swivels, you still use the tilt mount no matter what you do. And ideas get better in relation to the number of cold ones taken.

 

[dohboy]

tks lastchance, funny though when i sat down and had a beer i realized that the way the gunnel curved would not allow me too put all 4 bolts in, so i had to use the right angle mount anyways, tks for your input though, and it only took 2 beer to get to that point

 

[Gator]

As per the silicone, please use sikaflex white or black 291 L.O.T.
this will give you a great seal and will also allow you to take the mounts off one day if you ever need too... SILICONE SHOULD NEVER BE USED ON BOATS, ANYWHERE!
Besides, I hate having to try and take the stuff off when working on boats.

 

[Last Chance]

I agree on using Sikaflex, but I would think Silicone does not stick NEARLY like Sikaflex? Sikaflex is somewhat permanent (Remember using a pry-bar to remove a kicker bracket), among other things.

 

[Gator]

There are many types of sika products out there... some that would rip the gelcoat and first layer of fiberglass off as well, like sika 4000... but with the 291 you still have an option. One thing though.. there is a problem with uv on some sika products so going to boat life is another option.. they UV products available but with cleaning up the mess you dont want to use acetone as it will end up yellowing... Looks bad.

 

[5-Salt Fever]

quote:Originally posted by LastChance

I ditched those expensive Quick-COnnects years ago. They always screw up, and giving your connector the "wiggle" when trying to bring up the line got tiring. First thing you have to do is put your riggers on a switch, the current running through them all the time speeds up corrosion. THe next thing I did was ignored Scotty's reccommendations on wiring, and followed ABYC for a 3% drop. From my breaker panel, I have big fat wires (4 guage), to terminal blocks mounted high and dry under the gunnel. I don't take my downriggers off a lot, BUT, I still can with a screwdriver if I need to. After doing that, I have not had to do a SINGLE SERVICE in 4 years for anything electrical, and this is using them HARD. And, not spending 80 bux every 6 months for new connectors does not hurt either. You can stuff the SCotty connectors with grease, di-electric grease, you may as well just shove Swiss Cheese in there for all the good it's going to do, as the electricity going through them is what kills them in a marine environment. Maybe if they had something with an O-ring like an outboard rigging cable, they'd last, but then they wouldn't get to sell the German made expensive plugs all the time, would they?

(BTW, they go up lot faster when they get FULL power instead of the necked down stuff they think you can shove through 12 guage wire). Look up ABYC wiring standards, and for the 25 amp draw they require you need MUCH heavier stuff then you could EVER get into a connector. For those of us with simple electrical systems, just put two 25 amp waterproof switches (Or better yet Breakers), on your rig, that what, when your downriggers are off, you don't have current going through your plugs and wrecking them, and you don't have to worry about replacing an in-line fuse somewhere in your bilge.


My $0.02

What he said!