Thanks guys - my builder said they were going to add extra reinforcing but I will now call him Monday to make sure it’s done.
Podding a SeaSport 22
- Thread starter DuroBoat
- Start date
I stopped by the shop unannounced today to check progress. Tom was good as usual despite his busy schedule and we had a look at the pod. I thought it looked great and exactly what I had in mind. Metalwork looked clean and straight, the lines look right and one of the shop hands was chatting to me and mentioned the young fellow welding my pod had done several SeaSport’s and was really happy about his work on this one. Nice to hear these little things form the guys on the shop floor. Some guys felt my budget for this project was on the expensive end but I’m damn glad I’m paying the pros to do it right and I can appreciate the workmanship of several skilled trades. They are installing additional bolts through the transom at the far extremes of the pod for added support.
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Aces
Well-Known Member
As long as you’re happy with the process, you win!
Some updated pictures from yesterday.. pod should be going to get powder coated next week. I went with a full depth pod (yes, I spoke to PDR) but it’s not too wide and still leaves room for both my trim tabs and transducer. I’m no expert but I’m liking the lines of the pod and the welds and grinding looks great. I asked the guy welding it and he said he’s probably made 100 pods. Notice there are tabs on each end of the pod for additional bolts and strength
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Sharphooks
Well-Known Member
Full length pod right to the keel is the right move. Laminar water flow along the bottom of the boat stays laminar as it passes across the bottom of the pod, feeding the flukes of your prop good clean water for better grip.
Rain City
Crew Member
Full length meaning back? This clearly isn't full width right?
I think he meant full depth. Full width would be waaaay too much flotation. My uncle prodded his k&c 19’ with too much flotation in his pod and the boat had a tendency of plowing through waves bow down
CIVANO
Well-Known Member
You need to consider staying away from the podding threads. Might cause you undue distress
Captain PartyMarty
Crew Member
Looks like you glassed over the drain plug in the transom. Is the plan to no longer have a drain plug? Not sure how I would feel about that, I wouldn’t want to rely on the bilge pump when on the trailer. Looks good though can’t wait to see it on the boat
Sharphooks
Well-Known Member
Yes, full length to the keel (depth) . I had an Orca that was podded half way to the keel......really crappy hole shots and alot of spray on the cowling....modded the pod so it extended to the keel—-instant improvement.
The Seasport I’m running now is podded to the keel line. I do have to chime in on the drain plug—-is your guy going to cut a “V” into the pod so you can get at the drain plug? I gotta agree with Captain Party....drain plugs are a good thing, though truth be told, my current Seasport has an absolute 100% watertight bilge....never seen that before in a boat. I no longer remove the drain plug when I put her on the hard.....bone dry bilge....always....freaky!
Stil a drain plug but it’s on the bottom of the bilge and it becomes a ball valve? Yet to see it but I get the idea.. just have to open the old engine compartment at the end of the day to get to it. Gotta have a drain in the bilge
Well, next week the boat should be finished the podding and fibreglass work and ready for some final touches at home before the engine is hung.. I’m reconfiguring my dash because all gauges are completely different. Any thoughts? It looks simple and more of a personal preference but I’m open to any suggestions.. Also need new kicker connections (steering system) as it will be further from my transom with a pod.. tie in my rear helm kicker with my main engine hydraulics or independent system for both engines? Either way will be all new hydraulic steering systems and anything I need for the kicker will ba an extra to the hefty quote I have for the install of the main engine
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Brando
Well-Known Member
Tie your kicker together with a solid bar at the front. That way you can have dual station hydraulic control of both motors and if you add a lowrance outboard pilot it will steer both motors your main acts as a rudder and is important to have it steer with the kicker.
your dash layout is really personal preference looks alright to me. I might be inclined to combine the 2 wipers and add some deck lights and cabin lights (I see you have some already) but you may want a couple sets bright and dim depending on situation.
your dash layout is really personal preference looks alright to me. I might be inclined to combine the 2 wipers and add some deck lights and cabin lights (I see you have some already) but you may want a couple sets bright and dim depending on situation.
Trotac in victoria. Yep can link as many holders as you want
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Yes I do but it was cables. I agree, having the main steer with the kicker should give much better control
Are you looking to sell the Volvo Penta 5.7 and outdrive?
to
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