POD Conversion - what style is best?

brutus said:
Do some reading on this subject, lots of opinions, they all varie, some say HE suck some say SB suck , I know one thing is Grady brackets are stepped and raked, Armstrong same, could it be that Grady one of the best ( some say lol) as bean doing it wrong all along??. I think like @Rayvon says , design and the way the boat is set up is where the fails are more prominent. Nightmare story’s of pod conversions all over the place, and success story the same. Guys with hull extension pods say it’s the way, guys with step raked brackets say it’s the way😂😂. Have fun and hope it all works out either way
Click to expand...
Well this whole thread just makes me happy that I gave up on that dream. I miss the Commander, but I'm happy that now I get to just follow along with other people's projects.
 
Pineapple Express said:
Don't do it. The early versions of the Suzuki DF350 have a terrible reputation for leaking water in to the lower units. Suzuki has issued several revised seal designs for the prop shafts. The newer units seem to have fewer complaints, but these early ones...I wouldn't touch that.
Click to expand...
Good to know, never done any research on those,cause I am not buying one 😂😂, few guides running them, might be newer version, taught it was selling cheap, so probably why. I paid more for my df300 with 980 hrs, besides the shift assy assembly seizing up on me, the thing runs like a champ
 
Late to the comments, but Eaglecraft have computer programs and the right naval people to talk to about your pod conversion. A member on here was thinking of doing similar, remove his big Volvo diesel and duoprop, pod it and install outboards. Are you on a tight budget?
 
brutus said:
Do some reading on this subject, lots of opinions, they all varie, some say HE suck some say SB suck , I know one thing is Grady brackets are stepped and raked, Armstrong same, could it be that Grady one of the best ( some say lol) as bean doing it wrong all along??. I think like @Rayvon says , design and the way the boat is set up is where the fails are more prominent. Nightmare story’s of pod conversions all over the place, and success story the same. Guys with hull extension pods say it’s the way, guys with step raked brackets say it’s the way😂😂. Have fun and hope it all works out either way
Click to expand...
I think the pod configuration depends on this: prior to pod, would boat handling improve if bow went higher while planing? If yes, stepped pod. If you are always on the tabs trying to keep the bow down - hull extension. If in doubt and you want the change to be neutral - hull extension, and be careful about your internal weight balance (fuel tanks, batteries, kicker)

Fiberglass boats are just heavier to begin with and may have a tendency to plow, so they are going to be less sensitive than aluminum. On really big boats, its probably a wash either way, and the little bit of extra bow-up is an inherent benefit. @Rain City mentioned his old Commander - what was that: like 30ft LOA, 10ft beam and the weight of a few african elephants? If anything a little 'bow up' probably couldn't have hurt (or it was so heavy to begin with that moving around 1000lbs was just shuffling the deck chairs).

Lastly, we are all inherently bad at teasing out cause and effect. There is always a really good chance that the original engine wasn't even mounted correctly or was underpowered, so the pod is a do-over. For example, if @Coastwise is going from a 200hp inboard diesel to a 350hp outboard it is going to feel like a different boat anyway. If he goes through with the pod and it feels great - it could just be the effects of the extra hp. If it feels terrible, could be unrelated to the new pod - new engine mounted too low, wrong prop, weight/balance issues, etc. It's a do-over, so you have to go through the whole commissioning process to really evaluate it properly.
 
Max123 said:
I think the pod configuration depends on this: prior to pod, would boat handling improve if bow went higher while planing? If yes, stepped pod. If you are always on the tabs trying to keep the bow down - hull extension. If in doubt and you want the change to be neutral - hull extension, and be careful about your internal weight balance (fuel tanks, batteries, kicker)

Fiberglass boats are just heavier to begin with and may have a tendency to plow, so they are going to be less sensitive than aluminum. On really big boats, its probably a wash either way, and the little bit of extra bow-up is an inherent benefit. @Rain City mentioned his old Commander - what was that: like 30ft LOA, 10ft beam and the weight of a few african elephants? If anything a little 'bow up' probably couldn't have hurt (or it was so heavy to begin with that moving around 1000lbs was just shuffling the deck chairs).

Lastly, we are all inherently bad at teasing out cause and effect. There is always a really good chance that the original engine wasn't even mounted correctly or was underpowered, so the pod is a do-over. For example, if @Coastwise is going from a 200hp inboard diesel to a 350hp outboard it is going to feel like a different boat anyway. If he goes through with the pod and it feels great - it could just be the effects of the extra hp. If it feels terrible, could be unrelated to the new pod - new engine mounted too low, wrong prop, weight/balance issues, etc. It's a do-over, so you have to go through the whole commissioning process to really evaluate it properly.
Click to expand...
Great points. The commander was 15000 lbs and 32x12. She also actually always liked lots of tabs because again, they dropped diesels in a boat that was built as a gasser. Do-over. One day I'll buy an old one and fully redo it as the forever boat. I used to say that one day I won't care about what the gas costs. Funny enough though, it wasn't getting more money that has already made me not care about the gas money anymore. I would pay anything to spend the rest of my life on the water.
 
Rain City said:
Great points. The commander was 15000 lbs and 32x12. She also actually always liked lots of tabs because again, they dropped diesels in a boat that was built as a gasser. Do-over. One day I'll buy an old one and fully redo it as the forever boat. I used to say that one day I won't care about what the gas costs. Funny enough though, it wasn't getting more money that has already made me not care about the gas money anymore. I would pay anything to spend the rest of my life on the water.
Click to expand...
Putting gas and going is priceless, being covered in dirty bilge oil from an IO while trying to find your wrench that fell under the engine, while cursing in French is another story 😂
 
Coastwise said:
Just what I needed, a stepped pod on a similar boat to confuse my decision! Haha
Click to expand...
That’s what I said in earlier pod questions, every one got on the HE band wagon all of a sudden, there is more to this, I ain’t no naval engineer but lots of factory builds are stepped and raked, confuse you even more, seassport Kodiak, one of those suke 300 is on my boat now ( stepped and rake mine lol)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1868.png
    IMG_1868.png
    761.2 KB · Views: 28
Aquaholic said:
They would probably do the design, build and install, but it won’t be weekend warrior price
Click to expand...
They do not have to design, they can recomend which would work best. Smaller boats that were butt heavy generally have an extension work better. Some larger boats it works great also. However ask yourself why most manufacturers when building integrated brackets use the step, Boston whaler, Grady, pursuit, kingfisher…….

Lots of talented builders around. I had whiskey creek marine (E and D) and it works great
Sooke has one guy that’s a pro but have not seen his ad in forever.

Do a bit of research.some guys make them and it is a disaster,
 
Last edited:
I would ask Daigle for sure. I can tell you in some situations that 1” up for every 1’ back on a stepped pod is not always ideal. It works great in the flat calm inlet, but you get out in the slop and I’ve seen them cavitation horribly.
 
If your heart is set on Yamaha’s this might be a good buy if it’s private. (No tax) Same block as the 300 and it has 440 hours. I’d sure try and get an engine that comes with controls as they add up, even when they do come with controls a different props and a few longer cables can cost another thousand or two. Lots of used yami controls out there too and almost all the mechanics know how to work on them. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1437422110594704/?ref=search
 
brutus said:
And overdue
Click to expand...

But hey, how would I spend my time if I didn't end up with 15 gallons of water in the bilge after each run out thanks leaky heat exchanger seals...only took me 3 years to actually figure it up because mine is stuffed down low next to the starter...yay!

I still vote hull extension on a fatass boat like my barge.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Baxter
Hitch vs Tongue Extensions vs ?
Replies
24
Views
3K
macro
M
M
26' Osprey I/O Conversion Project
Replies
35
Views
6K
ship happens
ship happens
Sharphooks
The Luck of the Steelhead Draw
Replies
7
Views
3K
Loghauler
Loghauler
Olde School
SOLD 2006 Campion 622 sedan, Westcoast Edition. $54,999
Replies
2
Views
2K
Olde School
Olde School
Connor Ferguson
Pod/Extension engineering.
Replies
18
Views
8K
beemer
beemer
Back
Top