Hitch vs Tongue Extensions vs ?

[Baxter]

Well we did it. I sold my truck and entered the world of SUVs. Great and Terrible. Love the new car but also miss the truck.

Took the boat to the launch just to test the towing - new Mazda tows with no issues, was great. Will launch easily at proper launches like Comox, Pacific Playgrounds, Salmon Point, etc, but I really REALLY do not want to dip this car in the water - something that will undoubtedly be necessary at times at Point Holmes, Kitty Coleman etc.

So my only options I can think of really are getting a longer tongue, or getting a hitch extension - or both I suppose.

What are everyone's thoughts? How feasible is this. What do you do?

Hitch Extension
This would be the easiest. If I were to buy a 6' extension or something. Towing with a long hitch extension seems sketchy so I would then tow to the launch normally, drop trailer and add extension for launching purposes, hook back up and launch. Would give me another 6' and in most scenarios this would be sufficient for launching without getting the car wet. But it does come with its drawbacks - first, a pain at the launch to swap over, but also when launching over the side of the ramp, the length will increase the chances of the trailer being high centered on the edge of the ramp.

Tongue Extension
This would probably be the most expensive option, but certainly the safest for towing purposes (assuming you can buy a longer swing tongue). I would never have to swap back and forth which is great. I would still have the same issue when launching over the edge of the ramp though, so may not be perfect.


Other Options?
Aside from fully buying a new or different style trailer, or buying another truck, does anyone else have any advice? (I did even debate buying a "launch truck". Something cheap and ****** that will still tow well, and then just draining the whole thing in the chuck with zero F's given when launching. When it rusts through, but another cheap POS that is good enough for launching - but not sure this will fly with the wife!)


When I had my truck, I dipped the wheels on occasion, and am okay to do this with the Mazda, but the issue comes with the ride height of the Mazda. It is pretty low and so I can not comfortably back up very far into the water without risk of the whole underside getting salted - especially if the water is even a little rough. With the truck, in extreme conditions I was able to back way in with only getting rubber wet, but not really possible with the new car.

I am thinking I may just be stuck with launching at proper launches - which is certainly not always convenient.
Thoughts?

 

[Corey_lax]

6' extension would be dragging on the ground from the play in them. I have a 18" extension for when I had my camper on the truck and I used chains and turnbuckles to cross brace it to get rid of play. I'd buy a beater, or rent a truck from Uhaul or Home Depot when you go to launch your boat and dunk that rental as deep as you want LOL.

Buying a cheap truck would be beneficial to you though for dump runs, getting soil, etc.

 

[Clint r]

Can’t tell if there’s bunk boards or rollers? My trailers all rollers and I sometimes launch our 20.5 footer with a small truck. To keep from having to back in to get it off the trailer I’ll get ready to launch, back over the lip of the ramp then use my winch and manually let the boat roll back off the trailer a couple feet. Then I back in and unhook the strap as the boat floats off without even getting my tires wet.

 

[Baxter]

Can’t tell if there’s bunk boards or rollers? My trailers all rollers and I sometimes launch our 20.5 footer with a small truck. To keep from having to back in to get it off the trailer I’ll get ready to launch, back over the lip of the ramp then use my winch and manually let the boat roll back off the trailer a couple feet. Then I back in and unhook the strap as the boat floats off without even getting my tires wet.

Bunks. And this is similar to what I do, but the issue is this does not always work, depends on tides for the crappy ramps. Sometimes you can't really go off the side at Kitty as the drop is too small. My bunks are pretty low, but I have gone off the edge and had it where the bunks are not even wet yet and tires are at edge of water - and that was with my truck. New car would be closer as the rear wheels are closer to the corners of the car.

If I can reach the water to get the bunks at least a little wet, I can go forward and back and jam the brakes while the boat slowly inches off. Have done this before, but not an option for getting it back on the trailer.

I had someone suggest replacing with an electric winch - a strong enough one could pull the boat onto the bunks even if dry - still not ideal, but a possible options.

 

[Max123]

Typically rollers are going to be positioned lower on the trailer than bunks so the boat is lower to the ground and you don't need to go in as deep as a starting point. Likewise, the rear rollers are hinged so that they can accommodate less than ideal launch/retrieval angles. Rollers, combined with an electric winch is going to get you farthest.

A hitch extension is definitely going to feel jankey. A tonque extension on the trailer is going to be cleanest, but since you have a swing hitch, proceed with caution. The max length of the extension off the hinge is calculated based on trailer capacity and the frame size - check out the installation instructions on the fulton website (see table on pg 2):

https://www.fultonperformance.com/product-assets/install/NHDPB230101.pdf

Looks like for 3x3 tubing @ 3500lbs capacity, you can only use a 36" extension in front of the coupler. Doesn't really give you much more than you already have.

 

[Pineapple Express]

The hitch extensions are really wobly due to the slop in the connections.

I actually carried a 36" extension in the truck for use in some shallow lake launches. I used the extension strictly at the ramp for the dunk & retrieval. The extension was not used on the road at all. Maybe an option for your situation too?

 

[Baxter]

The hitch extensions are really wobly due to the slop in the connections.

I actually carried a 36" extension in the truck for use in some shallow lake launches. I used the extension strictly at the ramp for the dunk & retrieval. The extension was not used on the road at all. Maybe an option for your situation too?

That was the plan, a long extension (longest I can find) but for use ONLY at the ramp, not on roads. Just for launch/retrieval only and only at launches where things were a bit sketchy (too shallow etc).

 

[Baxter]

Typically rollers are going to be positioned lower on the trailer than bunks so the boat is lower to the ground and you don't need to go in as deep as a starting point. Likewise, the rear rollers are hinged so that they can accommodate less than ideal launch/retrieval angles. Rollers, combined with an electric winch is going to get you farthest.

A hitch extension is definitely going to feel jankey. A tonque extension on the trailer is going to be cleanest, but since you have a swing hitch, proceed with caution. The max length of the extension off the hinge is calculated based on trailer capacity and the frame size - check out the installation instructions on the fulton website (see table on pg 2):

https://www.fultonperformance.com/product-assets/install/NHDPB230101.pdf

Looks like for 3x3 tubing @ 3500lbs capacity, you can only use a 36" extension in front of the coupler. Doesn't really give you much more than you already have.

Ahh, yes. I had not gone far enough down the rabbit hole to learn (yet) about the limitations of the swing hitch in that regard. Looks like that is not really an option. Was hoping I could just buy a longer piece, slap it on, and away I go. Looks like that is not an option.

 

[pescador]

12 years ago I spent a lotta time understanding boat trailer weight/balance, leverage based on wheel base and a ton of other things related to science of towing. It’s complicated, but, after buying 3 different tow vehicles and doing lots of mods to my trailer I concluded to do it right and safely that the vehicle is the key. Every boats different and requirements change so it’s not a one fits all. If it was me, I’d be looking for a beater f150 to tow with and save the wear and tear on your new car. The f150 overhang from the rear axle will be longer and you won’t give a **** if you soak the rear wheels. BTW, I almost always have to put my rear tires in the water on my suv when I launch at Gold River every year. It only happens there and I hose it off at the top of the ramp. I think you’ll find most people have to get some exposure to water sometimes.

 

[Baxter]

12 years ago I spent a lotta time understanding boat trailer weight/balance, leverage based on wheel base and a ton of other things related to science of towing. It’s complicated, but, after buying 3 different tow vehicles and doing lots of mods to my trailer I concluded to do it right and safely that the vehicle is the key. Every boats different and requirements change so it’s not a one fits all. If it was me, I’d be looking for a beater f150 to tow with and save the wear and tear on your new car. The f150 overhang from the rear axle will be longer and you won’t give a **** if you soak the rear wheels. BTW, I almost always have to put my rear tires in the water on my suv when I launch at Gold River every year. It only happens there and I hose it off at the top of the ramp. I think you’ll find most people have to get some exposure to water sometimes.

I am less concerned with the tires, and even the brakes. Can give that a good rinse after - where my bigger concern is is with the undercarriage. The back of the car is pretty low, so more vehicle to get exposed to salt potentially.

I had my Tundra for 9 years and it was dipped in the salt many times, but really only the tires and brakes, and in some extreme cases the rear diff were exposed. Never had significant rust or anything bad happen.

(Even had one day when a huge storm came up and things were UGLY! Had waves literally crashing into the tailgate!!! Yikes. That was scary - don't ask about the run back to the launch!!! We thought we might all die, but all ended well. And LOTS of fresh water was used on the truck after that day!!!)

The distance from the rear wheels to the hitch on the car is one of my big reasons for this as you just have to take the car back further to get the boat off... We shall see... not really any good options that don't cost a lot. (Even a cheap truck that I can dunk in the ocean isn't really "cheap".)

 

[Sr SQ]

Tough for me to tell from the pic but is your trailer a single axle?
If so flipping a dropped hitch ball will raise the tongue 6-8", this will help launching quite a bit.
Of course if it's a dual axel this is not an option.

 

[wolf]

I had my Tundra for 9 years and it was dipped in the salt many times, but really only the tires and brakes, and in some extreme cases the rear diff were exposed. Never had significant rust or anything bad happen.

DO NOT do this worst thng for a vehicle even if you do rinse it rust will happent salt water will creep into everything and you cant spray fresh water on everything , ive seen so many car literally under water , worse was at sooke marina on a low tide guy backed his whole car into the saltwater and mud the tail pipe was almost under, T
o be honest your boat is just a tinny and doesnt weigh much. if anything go with a bigger winch 2 speed and honestly if you can the bunks somewhat under water you good maybe get some slides and slap them on the bunks. make it easier . or add soap on carpet (makes it easier to slide up)
My boat weighs in at over 8500 lbs And have the the bigggest hand winch and yes it can be a grunt on lower tides but managable.
Also look at the tides and pick high to mid tides most launches are horid in low tides (not steep enough)

Good luck Wolf

 

[Baxter]

DO NOT do this worst thng for a vehicle even if you do rinse it rust will happent salt water will creep into everything and you cant spray fresh water on everything , ive seen so many car literally under water , worse was at sooke marina on a low tide guy backed his whole car into the saltwater and mud the tail pipe was almost under, T
o be honest your boat is just a tinny and doesnt weigh much. if anything go with a bigger winch 2 speed and honestly if you can the bunks somewhat under water you good maybe get some slides and slap them on the bunks. make it easier . or add soap on carpet (makes it easier to slide up)
My boat weighs in at over 8500 lbs And have the the bigggest hand winch and yes it can be a grunt on lower tides but managable.
Also look at the tides and pick high to mid tides most launches are horid in low tides (not steep enough)

Good luck Wolf

I understand what you are saying, and trust me, I do everything possible to keep the vehicle out of the water, but there are certain situation that arise sometimes that just make that impossible (aside from anchoring the boat and coming back later).

At a good launch, this is easy. A proper launch always has enough water and a steep enough angle. But at some launches if the tide is not perfect, or if the winds pick up slightly sometimes there is no other option if you want to get the boat out of the water. There are occasions where at launches like Kitty Coleman and Point Holmes, where, even if you launch off the side of the ramp, you end up not getting enough water to even get the bunks wet. At both, with certain tides and ramp positions it is not possible to go off the side as the trailer gets high centered (you can back it in fine, but the second the weight of the boat is introduced the trailer drops enough that it drags the ramp. Sometimes I have dragged it, but just depends on the specific situation.

I am not afraid to hand crank that sucker along dry bunks - have done it, but if you cant get the end of the bunks low enough, it is near impossible to get started.

Perhaps a set of rollers at the end of the bunks that sit a bit lower or something might do the trick - combined with an electric winch maybe, then could get the boat on with almost no water, but tough to say.

Again, getting tow vehicle wet is always a last resort, and most of the time with my truck it stayed completely dry, but **** happens and circumstances are not always 100% predictable.

 

[Baxter]

Tough for me to tell from the pic but is your trailer a single axle?
If so flipping a dropped hitch ball will raise the tongue 6-8", this will help launching quite a bit.
Of course if it's a dual axel this is not an option.

Yes, single axle, but I already have a 4" lift on the hitch in order to keep the trailer level (and is a bit high in the front, but very close to level).

 

[SeaWolf]

vs ? . Go to a better launch problem solved! 4 boats over many years never needed to get the truck wet or even the Camaro. Some launches are meant for 12 ft tinnies, if you are launching something bigger than a 12 ft tinnie you are going to have problems.

 

[Tips Up]

Get a fishing partner with a truck.
My wife tows my boat with her Highlander when I need to tow my travel trailer. But I use my truck to launch and retrieve

 

[Zuktaylor]

I understand what you are saying, and trust me, I do everything possible to keep the vehicle out of the water, but there are certain situation that arise sometimes that just make that impossible (aside from anchoring the boat and coming back later).

At a good launch, this is easy. A proper launch always has enough water and a steep enough angle. But at some launches if the tide is not perfect, or if the winds pick up slightly sometimes there is no other option if you want to get the boat out of the water. There are occasions where at launches like Kitty Coleman and Point Holmes, where, even if you launch off the side of the ramp, you end up not getting enough water to even get the bunks wet. At both, with certain tides and ramp positions it is not possible to go off the side as the trailer gets high centered (you can back it in fine, but the second the weight of the boat is introduced the trailer drops enough that it drags the ramp. Sometimes I have dragged it, but just depends on the specific situation.

I am not afraid to hand crank that sucker along dry bunks - have done it, but if you cant get the end of the bunks low enough, it is near impossible to get started.

Perhaps a set of rollers at the end of the bunks that sit a bit lower or something might do the trick - combined with an electric winch maybe, then could get the boat on with almost no water, but tough to say.

Again, getting tow vehicle wet is always a last resort, and most of the time with my truck it stayed completely dry, but **** happens and circumstances are not always 100% predictable.

Plastic / UHMW bunk slides

 

[macro]

The Ausies beach launch a bunch. This is their solution.

Tow like normal, and when at the launch unhook, swing out extension and off you go..

https://saboattrailers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/IA-0100-Spitfire-Trailer-Swing-Drawbar-Extension-1-scaled.jpg

 

[kaelc]

The Ausies beach launch a bunch. This is their solution.

Tow like normal, and when at the launch unhook, swing out extension and off you go..

https://saboattrailers.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/IA-0100-Spitfire-Trailer-Swing-Drawbar-Extension-1-scaled.jpg

That’s pretty cool. It’s almost as quick to swap in a hitch extension at the ramp. I wonder how much extra you can get with the Ausie setup?

 

[Max123]

Wow, that's a bonkers setup!