Pod builders and cost

[Unreel]

I know there's been a number of guys on here that have had pods built for their rigs. Has anyone had one done recently? Wondering if costs have gone up much due to covid greed/inflation. Considering taking the plunge on my Bert and know the transom would need beefing up, so would be interested in a shop that does glass work as well as pod building.

 

[ship happens]

In my shop glass work gets sent out. Engineering gets done in house along with the glass guy. Pods are done either in house or several different fabrication houses. Depending on variables.

Material costs on raw material has definitely gone up. Material is what it is. Some pod builders who do production can give fixed costs.

 

[SpringVelocity]

I would research a place closely before getting one done. Lot of bad examples on here where it wasn't. I was happy with dss welding. Knows what he is doing.

Get glass work done separately.

 

[casper5280]

Got a quote a month ago from a shop that has done lots of pods for $4500. Was recommended by a member on this site who was very happy with their pod. No glass work in that quote

 

[searun]

I have had pods built for 2 boats. First was my 24 Wellcraft Coastal, and that was a full width step up pod. It didn't follow the hull flush instead stepped up from the transom. Was a really nice job, however the design resulted in difficulties trimming down and porpoising. The only solution was to install a dolfin on my outboard, which immediately fixed the problem. Second boat is a Grady White 265 Express, and for this one I worked with Breakers in Port Alberni to line up their local fabricator. He did a custom job, which included closing in my drop down transom gate to create more storage and a tackle station along the stern where the former fold down gate was previously. Super nice job, with amazing functionality.

The other design consideration was I went with a full hull extension. That created more floatation and lift for the engines, and eliminated any issues with trim and porpoising. I went down the full extension route based not only on what I learned from my first experience, but also after checking in with other guides who had extensions built. Consensus was hull extensions are the way to go. My experience thus far after a full guiding seasons with over 100 guiding days is the performance, stability and function of a hull extension is in a word, amazing.

My build was $7.500, but thinking it was considerably more than most given the additional custom work to construct a close in for the motor well area, with custom doors and a tackle station area. Hope that helps in your design planning. Post a few pics once its done.

 

[Rain City]

I have had pods built for 2 boats. First was my 24 Wellcraft Coastal, and that was a full width step up pod. It didn't follow the hull flush instead stepped up from the transom. Was a really nice job, however the design resulted in difficulties trimming down and porpoising. The only solution was to install a dolfin on my outboard, which immediately fixed the problem. Second boat is a Grady White 265 Express, and for this one I worked with Breakers in Port Alberni to line up their local fabricator. He did a custom job, which included closing in my drop down transom gate to create more storage and a tackle station along the stern where the former fold down gate was previously. Super nice job, with amazing functionality.

The other design consideration was I went with a full hull extension. That created more floatation and lift for the engines, and eliminated any issues with trim and porpoising. I went down the full extension route based not only on what I learned from my first experience, but also after checking in with other guides who had extensions built. Consensus was hull extensions are the way to go. My experience thus far after a full guiding seasons with over 100 guiding days is the performance, stability and function of a hull extension is in a word, amazing.

My build was $7.500, but thinking it was considerably more than most given the additional custom work to construct a close in for the motor well area, with custom doors and a tackle station area. Hope that helps in your design planning. Post a few pics once its done.

I don't think it's nearly as cut and dry as that. I realize this was just your own (succesful) experience and that's all that most people need to be convinced it's the right way. Fair enough. But that's far from the facts I've learned after speaking to a lot of different people that build or have had pods built. It's much to do with your existing boats hull design and weight distribution. With bigger heavier boats, I'm told, the step up is preferred to reduce drag. You don't need "more hull" if the weight you're adding is substantially less, in proportion to the overall weight, than in a smaller boat. The moral of the story is, hire a professional designer or copy exactly something that has been proven already on your boat.

 

[Unreel]

Got a quote a month ago from a shop that has done lots of pods for $4500. Was recommended by a member on this site who was very happy with their pod. No glass work in that quote

Which shop was that?

 

[Brando]

I don't think it's nearly as cut and dry as that. I realize this was just your own (succesful) experience and that's all that most people need to be convinced it's the right way. Fair enough. But that's far from the facts I've learned after speaking to a lot of different people that build or have had pods built. It's much to do with your existing boats hull design and weight distribution. With bigger heavier boats, I'm told, the step up is preferred to reduce drag. You don't need "more hull" if the weight you're adding is substantially less, in proportion to the overall weight, than in a smaller boat. The moral of the story is, hire a professional designer or copy exactly something that has been proven already on your boat.

Yes to many of your points the weight distribution is critical my analogy is finding the balance point on a teeter totter. Your diesels/legs weigh a good bit more than the average outboard but shifting that weight 3’ off the stern has its own set of effects to balance out. Your boats a lot different than the avg pod candidate the normal 18-25’ deep or modified v responds best most of the time to following the hulls natural line for what we’re trying to do with our boats and our normal west coast conditions. Entirely different if your trying to go fast on a glass calm day. the stepped bracket design on Grady’s like the seafarers imo is a generic way of getting a pod built for mass production one design set the mounting height and go it’s easy for the builders to have a large quantity fabricated to a standard drawing, uses less materials fits a variety of hulls etc..doesn’t necessarily offer the best performance but it works.. just might get wet feet or fall off plane easier porpoise more etc..

 

[Unreel]

I don't think it's nearly as cut and dry as that. I realize this was just your own (succesful) experience and that's all that most people need to be convinced it's the right way. Fair enough. But that's far from the facts I've learned after speaking to a lot of different people that build or have had pods built. It's much to do with your existing boats hull design and weight distribution. With bigger heavier boats, I'm told, the step up is preferred to reduce drag. You don't need "more hull" if the weight you're adding is substantially less, in proportion to the overall weight, than in a smaller boat. The moral of the story is, hire a professional designer or copy exactly something that has been proven already on your boat.

From most of the research ive done the full extension pod is the way to go. I would certainly be going that way if i do decide to pod it. Each boat is different for sure, from the limited number of guys that have podded a 28 bert, they all say to go with a full extension with as much flotation as possible to counter the added weight of the pod plus 2X 225-300 outboards. Ive seen a few with just an armstrong bracket on them and they sit way to low in the stern. Theres a guy on tht that did a 28 bert and glassed in a complete 3' hull extension, thing was incredible.

 

[Rain City]

From most of the research ive done the full extension pod is the way to go. I would certainly be going that way if i do decide to pod it. Each boat is different for sure, from the limited number of guys that have podded a 28 bert, they all say to go with a full extension with as much flotation as possible to counter the added weight of the pod plus 2X 225-300 outboards. Ive seen a few with just an armstrong bracket on them and they sit way to low in the stern. Theres a guy on tht that did a 28 bert and glassed in a complete 3' hull extension, thing was incredible.

Definitely worth whatever it takes to get real life trial on another boat for sure. I swear some guys don't even know what a properly trimmed boat should feel like!

 

[Aquaholic]

From most of the research ive done the full extension pod is the way to go. I would certainly be going that way if i do decide to pod it. Each boat is different for sure, from the limited number of guys that have podded a 28 bert, they all say to go with a full extension with as much flotation as possible to counter the added weight of the pod plus 2X 225-300 outboards. Ive seen a few with just an armstrong bracket on them and they sit way to low in the stern. Theres a guy on tht that did a 28 bert and glassed in a complete 3' hull extension, thing was incredible.

There are a few Youtube videos of Bertram's down under getting outboard conversions, they seem to hold Bertram's in high esteem there. I would run through some of those videos to see if they did a model like yours.

Go to13:55

It is a 25 Bertram but the pod vs hull extension talk is interesting. I cannot find Pt 6 yet to see how far they get.

 

[Aquaholic]

Pt 6. motor install starts at 1:45

 

[Aquaholic]

Pt 7, too much hull extension flotation and how to rectify it.

 

[SpringVelocity]

From most of the research ive done the full extension pod is the way to go. I would certainly be going that way if i do decide to pod it. Each boat is different for sure, from the limited number of guys that have podded a 28 bert, they all say to go with a full extension with as much flotation as possible to counter the added weight of the pod plus 2X 225-300 outboards. Ive seen a few with just an armstrong bracket on them and they sit way to low in the stern. Theres a guy on tht that did a 28 bert and glassed in a complete 3' hull extension, thing was incredible.

I am running not a huge boat like yours but mine is hull extension full flotation. I wouldn't want any stepped thing. Worked on my boat. Wolf boat is full flotation hull extension as well.

My pod was in the 4k range but obviously smaller than what you need. When you finally all this I would budget to be with project 20 percent higher. There is always something that comes up.

I do agree with finding someone who know what they are doing.

Another piece of advice get it in sooner than later. Nothing worse than wanting one and it takes months to deliver. You have to time the pod and shop with your motors at same time. Do it by spring most places are completely booked.

 

[bryce]

My wellcraft 250 coastal had a full flotation pod and it worked unbelievable was super good ride sat perfect in the water was 2500 plus paint by I believe Curtis Fournier in port alberni I could be wrong on last name but he was great to work with!

My bayliner I bought already podded was full flotation and it rode great but sat bow heavy, water wouldn’t drain out self bailing deck and looked weird believe it is still cruising around sooke

 

[Rain City]

My wellcraft 250 coastal had a full flotation pod and it worked unbelievable was super good ride sat perfect in the water was 2500 plus paint by I believe Curtis Fournier in port alberni I could be wrong on last name but he was great to work with!

My bayliner I bought already podded was full flotation and it rode great but sat bow heavy, water wouldn’t drain out self bailing deck and looked weird believe it is still cruising around sooke

I also don't think full floatation means stepped or not stepped. You can have a flotation pod that is stepped. I think what the argument here is stepped up a few inches, or full hull extension (flush to the hull). Otherwise we're talking about a bracket or smaller, less floation pod.

 

[Aquaholic]

My bayliner I bought already podded was full flotation and it rode great but sat bow heavy, water wouldn’t drain out self bailing deck and looked weird believe it is still cruising around sooke

See Pt 7 video above, same thing but they found a cure. Starts at the 12:40 mark.

 

[ship happens]

I think raincity has been doing his homework.

 

[Brando]

I also don't think full floatation means stepped or not stepped. You can have a flotation pod that is stepped. I think what the argument here is stepped up a few inches, or full hull extension (flush to the hull). Otherwise we're talking about a bracket or smaller, less floation pod.

Yes BUT you have to step it enough that when it’s on plane it will break free and not be in the water. Not enough and it creates a suction effect and the boat will porpoise. “Flotation” is loosely used I think the better term would be planing or hull extension since the pod is either designed to be in the water while running or out. A few inches is more like 8 or more to get it out of the water (depends how far back the pod goes) buoyancy added by the volume of displaced water is what changes the at rest and hull speed characteristics and engine mounting height becomes a huge factor with the stepped versions that are designed to break free while running 1” up for 12” back is a very generic statement sometimes it’s much more sometimes it’s less each hull is different. Lots of good info on trial and error on tht for this. The hull extension adds drag but also creates lift which results in potentially less surface area in contact with the water.. so many variables

 

[Rain City]

Yes BUT you have to step it enough that when it’s on plane it will break free and not be in the water. Not enough and it creates a suction effect and the boat will porpoise. “Flotation” is loosely used I think the better term would be planing or hull extension since the pod is either designed to be in the water while running or out. A few inches is more like 8 or more to get it out of the water (depends how far back the pod goes) buoyancy added by the volume of displaced water is what changes the at rest and hull speed characteristics and engine mounting height becomes a huge factor with the stepped versions that are designed to break free while running 1” up for 12” back is a very generic statement sometimes it’s much more sometimes it’s less each hull is different. Lots of good info on trial and error on tht for this. The hull extension adds drag but also creates lift which results in potentially less surface area in contact with the water.. so many variables

Now we're talking. That's great info. And I'm guessing this is also why they're designed with an upward rake.