Pod builders and cost

Rain City said:
Now we're talking. That's great info. And I'm guessing this is also why they're designed with an upward rake.
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The rake design is the absolute best results I've achieved. I can't tell you guys how many pod projects I've been involved with over the past 15 years.

Remember 65lbs of flotation for every cubic ft of air. Totally achievable with a rake. Small boats who cares they might need the extra displacement
 
ship happens said:
The rake design is the absolute best results I've achieved. I can't tell you guys how many pod projects I've been involved with over the past 15 years.

Remember 65lbs of flotation for every cubic ft of air. Totally achievable with a rake. Small boats who cares they might need the extra displacement
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Only applies to the portion of the pod that’s submerged minus overall weight of materials motor etc. getting technical.. buoyancy is the upwards force of displaced fluid, gravity air material weight etc all factors. Raked bracket need to be wider than std to provide same lift at rest but yep it works if built properly but provides no lift to the rest of the hull on plane so the boats cog shifts to the stern no lift to help get up out of the water not the best imo but lots setup this way. And you’ve had good results so obviously they work!
 
Here's a tip without getting all scientifically obliviated. Don't need buoyancy on plane. You could literally toss a gill bracket on a boat with an outboard and get great results on plane. It's the balance between sitting right at idle and on plane efficiency.
 
ship happens said:
Here's a tip without getting all scientifically obliviated. Don't need buoyancy on plane. You could literally toss a gill bracket on a boat with an outboard and get great results on plane. It's the balance between sitting right at idle and on plane efficiency.
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You do it’s called dynamic buoyancy same way airplanes generate lift under their wings.
 
I paid around 3k for mine a few years ago. If I had any more floatation I’d be sitting nose down at the dock. Sits pretty level currently and seems to work good. No porpoising, blowing out of props or anything like that.
 

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bryce said:
I wish I could like this a few more times…. I owned an inboard for 3-4 weeks ….. podded it would never have an inboard again…
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I ran mine for about 10 years. In all fairness it was OK. But it really nickled / dimed me each year, and left me stranded more times than not. When it worked things were great.

Just couldn't do it anymore though so pod went on. I sure love not having that stupid doghouse!
 
Rain City said:
I also don't think full floatation means stepped or not stepped. You can have a flotation pod that is stepped. I think what the argument here is stepped up a few inches, or full hull extension (flush to the hull). Otherwise we're talking about a bracket or smaller, less floation pod.
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You know somthing on that one, is that everyone's favorite boat hulls such as (caugh) grady, and not mention Boston whaler are all doing stepped hulls now. I'd say do some homework on that idea because alot of trusted boat designs are doing pretty well with that. Brain buster
 
Well to my surprise after being on the hard for 5 years and not running the engines for probably 3 years, I actually got both motors fired up and running(out of the water). Actually pretty shocked how well they ran, even though there was water and coolant leaks in a number of spots. Looks like i would need to at least replace one heat exchanger, both oil coolers and some lines. So probably about $2k there if i do it myself. Now im in a predicament, do I try and put some money into these old engines and try and run them till they die or spend a bunch on going ahead with a pod..
 
Unreel said:
Well to my surprise after being on the hard for 5 years and not running the engines for probably 3 years, I actually got both motors fired up and running(out of the water). Actually pretty shocked how well they ran, even though there was water and coolant leaks in a number of spots. Looks like i would need to at least replace one heat exchanger, both oil coolers and some lines. So probably about $2k there if i do it myself. Now im in a predicament, do I try and put some money into these old engines and try and run them till they die or spend a bunch on going ahead with a pod..
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I vote fix it up and buy yourself a new rod and reel! And 90000 Liters of fuel
 
Unreel said:
Well to my surprise after being on the hard for 5 years and not running the engines for probably 3 years, I actually got both motors fired up and running(out of the water). Actually pretty shocked how well they ran, even though there was water and coolant leaks in a number of spots. Looks like i would need to at least replace one heat exchanger, both oil coolers and some lines. So probably about $2k there if i do it myself. Now im in a predicament, do I try and put some money into these old engines and try and run them till they die or spend a bunch on going ahead with a pod..
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I guess there's 2 questions, the first being utilization and whether or not you're going to use it enough to justify investment A or B. The second being will you recoup your investment on a podded hull with new ouboards or will it be seen as a red headed step child on the market. That being said selling and buying something that the work has already been done to sometimes is the best, additionally I am a strong believer that you will recoup your investment on a brand name non bastardized vessel such as a Grady or Whaler. I call it hanging the pictures on the wall, you're not so concerned about making it run as you are about making it right for you, which of course leaves more time for enjoyment as the old ride is someone else's problem. My mechanic once said to me " that boat's going to nickel and dime you to death"........he was bang on.
 
BC Coast Pilot said:
I guess there's 2 questions, the first being utilization and whether or not you're going to use it enough to justify investment A or B. The second being will you recoup your investment on a podded hull with new ouboards or will it be seen as a red headed step child on the market. That being said selling and buying something that the work has already been done to sometimes is the best, additionally I am a strong believer that you will recoup your investment on a brand name non bastardized vessel such as a Grady or Whaler. I call it hanging the pictures on the wall, you're not so concerned about making it run as you are about making it right for you, which of course leaves more time for enjoyment as the old ride is someone else's problem. My mechanic once said to me " that boat's going to nickel and dime you to death"........he was bang on.
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Last three lines:
Can we all agree, good naturedly, that this quote applies to every boat except row boats 😆
 
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