New to me Boat!

[ExFlyGuy]

Spent a couple hours on Tuesday and Wednesday night running the chisel and hammer and a couple hours tonight running the grinder to get to here... looks like im going to have a bit more time on the grinder, but for now I’m going to shift my focus to making a dump run and picking up some marine ply so I can start dry fitting the new transom.

 

[Fixit]

wow thats a lot of holes in the fiberglass. no wonder the wood rotted out

 

[ExFlyGuy]

I got both pieces of plywood cut and fitted into the transom this weekend. Now I guess I have to get geared back up in my ppe this week and finish grinding down the transom... also going to swing by industrial paints this week and get every thing I need to get this transom back in place.

I even managed to get out on the boat Friday night and this morning and put some fish in the cooler!

 

[ExFlyGuy]

I should also mention that after 2 dump runs I have removed close to 1000 lbs of wet wood and garbage. Also the solid steel engine bracket weighed in at 350 lbs(1350 total). this doesn’t even include the fuel tanks, propane tanks and the whole corner of my garage worth of stuff I still have to sort through.

 

[Thunder21]

Have you considered drilling out and epoxying the bolt hole locations of the pod like you are planning with the drain plug? It seems like a good way to avoid the transom being exposed. Also I have seen guys glass in seperate pieces on the back of the transom to mount trim tabs and transducers etc. Im not a glass guy so I could be wrong but it also seemed like a good way to avoid ever putting a screw into your transom.

 

[casper5280]

This is the way I did mine. Drilled out the old swim grid holes to use ready rod and 2x4's to use as clamps

 

[ExFlyGuy]

Have you considered drilling out and epoxying the bolt hole locations of the pod like you are planning with the drain plug? It seems like a good way to avoid the transom being exposed. Also I have seen guys glass in seperate pieces on the back of the transom to mount trim tabs and transducers etc. Im not a glass guy so I could be wrong but it also seemed like a good way to avoid ever putting a screw into your transom.

I haven’t really thought about it. To tell you the truth I’m not that worried about it. The transom was only rotten in a few spots after 40 years! If I get half that out of this rebuild I’ll be happy!

 

[casper5280]

I just glassed 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood together and dry fitted it all together first. Wanted to make sure all my clamping was going to work. Whipped up a big batch of peanut butter and slapped it on the transom and plywood and clamped the whole thing together. All the excess squeezed out and filled all the holes that are there. Anything that squeezes out the back, wipe smooth. The pod is going to cover most of holes and your still going to have to use some of them, the tie down hooks, rigging holes, fuel vent, trim tab line. Anything below the water line I drilled and than drilled from the inside back to the glass over size and filled solid. Then redrilled from the outside in the size I needed. I filled the collar hole, but there are guys that don't. I looked at it the same way in the fact the boat lasted 40+years built with polyester resin and plywood and in some instances bad building practises and still floated. Built the same way the boat will be here another 40.

 

[ExFlyGuy]

Well, here's a recap of the last week. I spent another night on the grinder cleaning up the transom. Epoxied both layers of ply to the transom and fillet in the transom with resin. Dry fitted my first couple scarf joints, ripped out a bunch more wire from behind the dash and pulled out the old head linner.

I still have another big night on the grinder to clean up the bilge are a so I can start glassing some of this in.

 

[ExFlyGuy]

I got a few things done this week. Transom is all glassed in as well as the scarfed in stringers. I put drains through each stringer and resined them in place (new filler that I bought dyes the resin white). Also started sanding down the outside of the transom. It’s taken me 3 sessions on the orbital with 60 grit to get it to where it is now... I didn’t want to take the grinder to it because I was afraid of gouging it badly.

 

[Rayvon]

Do you plan on re-gelcoating or painting? You'll be finished the crappy part of the job soon and can get on with the more interesting stuff.

 

[ExFlyGuy]

Whats the max HP rating for the 26'?

I just called bill Hourston and the max HP raiting is 300

 

[ExFlyGuy]

Do you plan on re-gelcoating or painting? You'll be finished the crappy part of the job soon and can get on with the more interesting stuff.

The hull was already painted once so it will go that route again. I got a couple quotes for paint between 5 and 10K and one for gelcoat at 15-20k...

I’ll be happy when I can ditch the respirator and start bolting new stuff on!

 

[Fishalot]

Did Hourston open in a new location? Hope so!

 

[ExFlyGuy]

Did Hourston open in a new location? Hope so!

Not sure. The office number is disconnected but if you go to contacts on there web page you can find bills #

 

[Pineapple Express]

I just called bill Hourston and the max HP raiting is 300

I've read elsewhere that in Canada the number plate "maximum horsepower" isn't legally binding. Also, when that hull was designed probably the most horsepower available would've been a 454 sterndrive around 300hp. Looking at that hull (design and weight) compared to newer hulls I personally wouldn't hesitate to go well beyond 300hp. Twin Evinrude ETEC G2 225HO would be great!

 

[Aces]

I've read elsewhere that in Canada the number plate "maximum horsepower" isn't legally binding. Also, when that hull was designed probably the most horsepower available would've been a 454 sterndrive around 300hp. Looking at that hull (design and weight) compared to newer hulls I personally wouldn't hesitate to go well beyond 300hp. Twin Evinrude ETEC G2 225HO would be great!

Mine runs nice with twin 150’s

 

[ExFlyGuy]

I've read elsewhere that in Canada the number plate "maximum horsepower" isn't legally binding. Also, when that hull was designed probably the most horsepower available would've been a 454 sterndrive around 300hp. Looking at that hull (design and weight) compared to newer hulls I personally wouldn't hesitate to go well beyond 300hp. Twin Evinrude ETEC G2 225HO would be great!

I’m sure the hull could handle more HP as well, but when it was sold from the factory with twins they recommended twin 115 hp engines.

 

[ExFlyGuy]

Still plugging away on this thing... This week I got all non essential holes filled in the transom and the port side floor glassed back in.

 

[bones]

I'm going to have to look into it more though because I'm pretty sure the G2 has built in steering? And i want the seastar set up for the kicker with a rear station.

you can order a G2 without steering