New to me Boat!

[Rayvon]

Yup,a pair of the new Yamaha light weight 200's if I'm spending your money.

 

[Oly1]

Or even better, a pair of the brand new Merc 200’s

Oly

 

[Unreel]

Or better yet a new zuki 350!

 

[ExFlyGuy]

Yup,a pair of the new Yamaha light weight 200's if I'm spending your money.

Boat is in the shop right now having the old motor removed. After talking with them and some of my own research I am getting a quote for F150 x 2 as well as a single 300.

The F200 I4 is the same motor as the F150 I4 and the only difference is a tiny bit of extra top end speed if you go with the F200. So in my opinion and the dealers there is no real benefit.

 

[ExFlyGuy]

Or better yet a new zuki 350!

Still in the early stages of research but I may entertain getting a quote on one of these! On the down side I’m still waiting for a part for my kicker from our new/only Suzuki dealer that I ordered 7 weeks ago... apperently Suzuki forgot to ship it...

 

[Unreel]

Next time order from breakers in port. They shipped me anything I need for my zukes and have pretty much any thing in stock. Won't deal with the local shop here.

 

[SteelyDan]

Get twins if you can afford it

 

[ExFlyGuy]

I got the fly bridge chopped up and off my driveway this week, I’m sure my neighbors are happy it’s gone... the Yamaha sold this week as well and I picked the boat back up from the mechanic this afternoon after they finished pulling the motor. Once I got it home I got to work on taking the solid steel bracket off the transom holy was this thing heavy!


Fishing again tomorrow so the tearing out of the transom is going to have to wait until Sunday to get started.

 

[ExFlyGuy]

The kids were sick so our dinner plans were canceled tonight... this gave me some time to get back in the boat after dinner.

I started ripping out the transom and pulled the floor up at the back of the boat. The stringers look ok still now that the floor is out. The plan will be to pull the stringers back 30” or so so I can rip out all of the transom. Then I will scarf in new pieces to the old stringers and tab them into the new transom. I think this will add quite a bit more support as the outer stringers didn’t even touch the transom and the inside ones were just butted up against it.

Thoughts?

 

[Rayvon]

I really like these rebuild projects,from a distance, without getting covered in fiberglass dust.It must have been a good feeling getting that steel mess off the transom.Your plan sounds good only once your absolutely sure that there's no rot anywhere else in the stringers front to back.Once you are satisfied you found it all strip everything down to bare fiberglass and then you'll have a fun day of grinding the transom down to clean fiberglass and feathering back the stringers.Go to town with the grinding everywhere there is exposed fiberglass so you can gelcoat when finished and it will adhere.It's a crappy job ,so you want to get it all done in one go,have plenty of ventilation and paper coverall's and dust mask at the least.It's going to get everywhere.It will only get better from that point on.And after you fill the outdrive hole make sure you feather back the glass inside and out about 6 inches all around.

 

[Bent-Tip]

I was surprised the outdrive hole was still there. Even though the bracket was fixed from both sides on the transom, it'd get pretty leaky pretty quick if the outer bracket was sheared off by hitting a deadhead or rock etc. Wow!

 

[casper5280]

O the horror. Lol, boy do I ever remember that stage in the build. I just cut a grid pattern with a circular saw set to the depth of the plywood transom and chiseled it off. The rot looks like its all in the same places. The outside stringers look good, so you'll only need to cut those back about a foot to get your transom wood in. you need to side the transom in top first to get it under the top cap. Then depending on what your plans are, for the fuel tank and new storage from where the motor was. I would make my lap joint there because you'll still want a bulk head to divide those two spaces and it will help supporting the floor. How was the floor, most of the ones I've seen are either rotted or delaminating because they were only done on the topside from the factory. Water gets under and they rot out. Another spot is the bottom of the cabin wall. Also check around where the ladder to the fly bridge was mounted. I installed a 6" inspection port and drains/plugs at the back where the stringers meet the transom and 2 more drains from fuel tank bulkhead to make sure there's no place for water to get trapped. I just used PVC pipe for all the drain holes and glassed them in and grind them back and install compression plugs. You could flair up the stringers at the back like hockey sticks and use it as a support for a shelf/cabinet plus more support for the pod.

 

[ExFlyGuy]

The first layer of plywood is out... I’m pretty sure all my neighbors hate me again as I had multiple power tools running since 8:30 am.

Here’s another question?

On the keel of the boat is a 2x6 glassed in. It was glassed into the transom and the drain plug was above it so water would always sit in the boat. I cut 6” out of it to remove the transom and would like to move the plug down and leave the 2x6 where it is now in the bottom picture.

Do you think this will affect the structural integrity of the boat?

The 2x6 runs from the transom to near the helm.

On the Malibu I have it doesn’t even have this board on the keel.

 

[casper5280]

You did exactly what I did. I cut out about a 3" semi circle in the transom plywood and a short piece of PVC and a brass fitting for the outside of the transom. Glassed it all in that way your drilling the holes into solid glass and not into the plywood core. if you shoot me your email I'll send you some photos

 

[casper5280]

Never mind figured out how to do it

 

[casper5280]

Here's another one

 

[ExFlyGuy]

Oh man, what a nightmare this is! If been cutting and chiseling for hours and this second layer of plywood is getting the best of me... the epoxy is bonded so well in spots that when I’m chiseling off the wood it is peeling fibreglass off with it.

Any suggestions for how to get it off? I have been cutting grids with the skill saw and router and peeling off small chunks but the chiseling is brutal...

Maybe I’ll try the grinder next.

 

[Goblin]

Grinder with a course sanding disk will clean that up. Avoid flapper disks they can gouge pretty bad if your not careful! You want to get the ones that need the plastic support behind that supports the disk.

 

[Rayvon]

I think your past the point of cutting grids now, it had to be done when you had a uniform thickness.They didn't use epoxy back when that boat was built,they used what we called "gype" or "bear ****" which was a mixture of resin and asbestos shorts.Another reason to protect yourself and family from the dust.As I said earlier this is as bad as this job gets and a grinder with coarse grit and backing pad is the only answer, experiment with different abrasives till you find what works best,start with 16 grit.Now you know why marina's charge an arm and a leg for this kind of work,it's nasty.

 

[Rayvon]

I just thought of something else you might want to try,a rotohammer drill with a chisel bit to separate the layers of plywood. Be careful to not go past the last layer though,you don't want to damage the fiberglass behind it.