Is my new kicker mounted correctly?

[SpringVelocity]

Here are pics of my 22 Seasport with an e-long 9.9 Yam on a fixed bracket. You can see where the bracket is mounted on the transom in relation to the boot stripe line. I had my brqcket custom built and it has small rounded out cutouts to come around the scuppers and allow it to mount low enough.

Yeah you can see how low that one is.

 

[DuroBoat]

Here are pics of my 22 Seasport with an e-long 9.9 Yam on a fixed bracket. You can see where the bracket is mounted on the transom in relation to the boot stripe line. I had my brqcket custom built and it has small rounded out cutouts to come around the scuppers and allow it to mount low enough.

Exactly what needs to be done methinks

 

[profisher]

I'm right on the edge with my hull for how high a following wave, especially a tidal one can come up to the powerhead. I have to keep customers away from standing right up against the transom in those conditions as the weight puts that corner down enough that seas start to lap at the engine cowling. I would first see if you can swap for the longer leg and keep the powerhead up higher. I think the next length will be 5 inches longer than you have now

 

[Rayvon]

I'd really be more tempted to leave the bracket where it is and change the motor length.You said that is a bandaid fix,but there's nothing wrong with an extra long shaft,it will keep your powerhead further away from the water/spray.

 

[wolf]

Yeah after looking at your went and checked mine and its about the same as rollies the skeg has to be at the level of your boat pic 2 you have is the dead give away , you defiantly have to go lower.

Or you will get that ever popular WWWWRRRRRR WWWWWWRRRR when your in rougher water I always here with kicker too high, I cant believe who ever mounted it didnt measure it up properly, dont worry about being a XXL leg its only I think only 4 to 6 inchs might save you seasports are high riding boats to begin with.. You will like it deeper in the water

 

[zurk]

mine is mounted the same way so i think its ok.
i use it for shallow water drive. basically for going into rocky and muddy areas. the tip of the skeg is aligned with the bottom of the hull. prop is completely protected by the hull, deliberately.
obviously it will ventilate (not cavitate). to stop that i have put a pair of dole fins i got off amazon for $45 and put that. now it gives me full thrust without ventilating. just put a pair of dole fins and you will be ok. heres mine with fins visible.

 

[ab1752]

The easiest route would be to change the new motor for the xlong version.I think they should have sold you a different bracket too for the power tilt.I like to have 10" of mounting surface for power tilt kickers.If your motor has been used you'll take a loss when trading it for the xlong version or you could just change bottom ends for more$.Sorry,no cheap fix I'm afraid.You could also have a custom bracket built of course to lower your existing motor,more$.ouch.

Ya this. I was stupid and bought a long leg yamaha then the marina smashed the lower end but thats another story. They had to replace the bottom end and it wasn't big deal to add the xl center section even though the mechanic ordered the long shaft lower.

Yours will chop water pretty badly I'm afraid.

 

[YachtMech]

so you actually have a very interesting issue, the quick answer to the question "is this too high" is yes....


However this is actually an issue of application.

If this was a primary propulsion motor, then this would be inexcusable. it would never work. there is plenty of information out there about setting motor height, and generally you mount the motor with the anti-ventilation plate at some distance above the hull profile depending on the distance and shape of the hull

but since this is for trolling at low speed it will work, but is not ideal, as mentioned above if you are in steep short waves or cresting swell then the prop will potentially come out of the water, it would be more ideal to have it lower. but if you are a fair weather fishermen then you will likely never have a problem and it will work as intended with slightly less efficiency.


my suggestion would be to break out a hole saw and make a cutout in the plate to accommodate the scupper so you can drop it as far down as possible, then coat any exposed aluminum with white 5200 as im assuming thats powedercoated, and it would be pointless to try and match it with paint. But as far as Im concerned this should not have been mounted this way to begin with, whatever shop installed this should have called you and discussed the issue to find a solution before mounting the engine, its really just not acceptable.

 

[DuroBoat]

Ya, the shop and I had some discussions about height as we were initially going to install the same kicker with a tiller handle. The tiller handle required the kicker to be mounted as high as possible to operate and clear the transom. However, They convinced me (and rightly so) to go with remote controls. Ill call the shop Monday and hopefully they will be willing to remove the bracket and reinstall the engine when I get a new custom bracket.

 

[ab1752]

Have you splashed this yet? You need to see how low the engine cowling will be to the waterline before you drop the kicker height. I really thing this is solved best with an xl leg kicker but to confirm you want to see the height of the cowling if you drop in 3" lower so its not swamped in a rolling sea.

Edit: ignore everything here, I finally properly read the initial post, its an xl leg clearly. Chopping up that mount is an option but why not simply have a good glass guy fill the holes and move it down? This is definitely the shop's issue regardless.

 

[32Knots]

I would hate to remove the bracket and redo the holes. I vote for modifications of the bracket. Easy fix for a welder with a grinder and a small piece of plate.

 

[Connor D]

mine is mounted the same way so i think its ok.
i use it for shallow water drive. basically for going into rocky and muddy areas. the tip of the skeg is aligned with the bottom of the hull. prop is completely protected by the hull, deliberately.
obviously it will ventilate (not cavitate). to stop that i have put a pair of dole fins i got off amazon for $45 and put that. now it gives me full thrust without ventilating. just put a pair of dole fins and you will be ok. heres mine with fins visible.

Christ, warn us before you post that thing on here . (Gagging) Now I have a mess to clean.

 

[DuroBoat]

Have you splashed this yet? You need to see how low the engine cowling will be to the waterline before you drop the kicker height. I really thing this is solved best with an xl leg kicker but to confirm you want to see the height of the cowling if you drop in 3" lower so its not swamped in a rolling sea.

Edit: ignore everything here, I finally properly read the initial post, its an xl leg clearly. Chopping up that mount is an option but why not simply have a good glass guy fill the holes and move it down? This is definitely the shop's issue regardless.

I just had all eight kicker holes from the last kicker bracket repaired so I don’t want to have to be through that process again. Plus the old kicker bracket had 8 holes - the current one has 5. If i move the bracket again, that’s another 5 holes for a total of 18 holes

 

[wildthing]

2' X2" u section of 3/16th or 1/2" will work affix to the mounting holes in the hull space out past the scuppa and allow you to drill in the channel where ever you wish to mount the bracket .... get it powered coated and you'll never know ...

it only means undoing the bracket and adding in the u channels ????? thats about the easy fix that i can thing of keeps every thing you all ready have with out modding anything other the the position of drilling hole in the u channel ...

 

[wolf]

I did the same as what 32 knot suggested I cut 4 inchs off the top of bracket ...

 

[trophywife]

I did the same as what 32 knot suggested I cut 4 inchs off the top of bracket ...

this seems to be the most logical.

 

[Butcher Boy]

Hey guys, I just had a new xl merc 15hp kicker installed and at first glance, when I went to pick it up, it looked to be mounted too high on my transom.

I had a better look at it today and dumped it in the water. In the water with the kicker fully raised, there is approx 10 inched between the surface of the kicker and the skeg (suggesting it could be dropped up to another 10” and still clear the water when raised.
When fully down, there is about 7” between the water surface and the top of the propellor guard (the top blade of the propellor is approx 8” underwater). When fully down, about half the propellor extends below the hull. I’m very concerned about cavitation in slightly lumpy water as it seems to me that it should have been installed 6” deeper for a full bite in the water. I need your thoughts please.. is this going to be ok or really frustrate me after spending $8k?

look up Bay mfg they make a kit for this. It will give you 5 more inches and will keep your power head up higher. I installed one on my Yamaha T-9.9 works great.