Is my new kicker mounted correctly?

[DuroBoat]

Hey guys, I just had a new xl merc 15hp kicker installed and at first glance, when I went to pick it up, it looked to be mounted too high on my transom.

I had a better look at it today and dumped it in the water. In the water with the kicker fully raised, there is approx 10 inched between the surface of the kicker and the skeg (suggesting it could be dropped up to another 10” and still clear the water when raised.
When fully down, there is about 7” between the water surface and the top of the propellor guard (the top blade of the propellor is approx 8” underwater). When fully down, about half the propellor extends below the hull. I’m very concerned about cavitation in slightly lumpy water as it seems to me that it should have been installed 6” deeper for a full bite in the water. I need your thoughts please.. is this going to be ok or really frustrate me after spending $8k?

 

[kingblazer84]

Hey guys, I just had a new xl merc 15hp kicker installed and at first glance, when I went to pick it up, it looked to be mounted too high on my transom.. I was reassured it would work.

I had a better look at it today and dumped it in the water. In the water with the kicker fully raised, there is approx 10 inched between the surface of the kicker and the skeg (suggesting it could be dropped up to another 10” and still clear the water when raised.
When fully down, there is about 7” between the water surface and the top of the propellor guard (the top blade of the propellor is approx 8” underwater). When fully down, about half the propellor extends below the hull. I’m very concerned about cavitation in slightly lumpy water as it seems to me that it should have been installed 6” deeper for a full bite in the water. I need your thoughts please.. is this going to be ok or really frustrate me after spending $8k?

I’d say your way too high, that kicker needs to come down another 5-6” easily maybe even more my friend... your prop is gonna pop out of the water in bigger swells and could cavitate quite easily.. also controlling the boat with that little prop and skeg in the water is gonna be a pain in the a$$

 

[scott craven]

The kicker will cavitate with every swell unless you drop it 6-8"

 

[Oly1]

If it turns out to be too high and going to cause problems, (looks a little high) get the shop to put the same motor on with an XXL shaft. That way your motor is high out of the water to keep following seas from swamping the motor cowling and you have the extra length to get the prop lower in the water and below your hull.

Oly

 

[wildthing]

who mounted the kicker bracket?

could drop it down to the lower holes and re-drill would then also have to re -glass fix the upper ones left behind or plugg'em

 

[DuroBoat]

If it turns out to be too high and going to cause problems, (looks a little high) get the shop to put the same motor on with an XXL shaft. That way your motor is high out of the water to keep following seas from swamping the motor cowling and you have the extra length to get the prop lower in the water and below your hull.

Oly

I also just patched the old kicker bracket holes inside and out so I really don’t want to go down that road again.. maybe a custom kicker bracket from Bite Me Too can drop it another 6” without patching the transom again? I will note, the existing bracket can only be lowered another 2” before it hits my scupper.. hesitant to go with an xxl as that’s a long engine sticking back and kinda a band-aid. I paid the top dollar for everything with this kicker setup so I really will be bummed if I have to compromise

 

[Rockfish]

From the view along the underside of the hull it appears that the prop may not be getting clean water with only about 55% of it below the hull. The view angle may be deceptive so perhaps it is grabbing more clean water than it looks. I think I learned somewhere, it is better if the prop is cutting through clean/unobstructed water for best performance and economy. If the prop is not deep enough it may suck down surface air bubbles/cavitation and you will also hear the motor rpm jump in the real bumpy water more often than you like when the prop grabs air.
Something to consider is that when the extra long shafts are up, they stick way out the back and are more vulnerable to damage in close quarter maneuvering. Also my marina charges by the foot based on total length which will be to the outside edge of which ever prop sticks out the most when your legs are up, if you keep them up when in the slip, as we do.

 

[Rayvon]

The easiest route would be to change the new motor for the xlong version.I think they should have sold you a different bracket too for the power tilt.I like to have 10" of mounting surface for power tilt kickers.If your motor has been used you'll take a loss when trading it for the xlong version or you could just change bottom ends for more$.Sorry,no cheap fix I'm afraid.You could also have a custom bracket built of course to lower your existing motor,more$.ouch.

 

[Sir Reel]

That sucks after spending all that money. Your going to want it deeper and below the hull line for undisturbed water.
But sounds like you can only get down another 2“ and then your prop may drag in the water especially as getting up on plane. If you leave the boat in the water the kicker may not be out of the water when tilted up. I used a Garelick 4 stroke bracket for my kicker which allowed me to get it down deep but also raise it clear up out of the water.

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[Rayvon]

If all else fails,and your pissed off enough,sell me your Seasport,great boats.

 

[Reel Gone]

Unfortunately that is too high and needs to come down more than the 2 inches that you said remain before the scupper. I dealt with this problem last year on my SS 2400 Explorer as well. I have a similar bracket mounted right above the scupper and and XL kicker and it just clears the water when tilted up. I would suggest a longer leg kicker but you may need to lower the bracket as well as I cant remember how much extra length they have. Looks to me that you need to come down 5" at least but tough to tell exactly in a pic

 

[wildthing]

well if you paid to have that fitted then the install was planned wrong for that length of kicker
have a alloy/starboard plate or spacer made so it go's around/clears the scupper and have the kicker bracket then mounted to that to get it lower
you can then still use the existing mounting points

 

[wildthing]

or use two u channel alloy sections to drop the bracket .... easy fix

 

[Rain City]

A custom aluminum bracket really doesn't cost much and any shop should have a guy to do it. I'd be flipping tables if I was you.

 

[DuroBoat]

Ya thanks guys - I can move the bracket down 3” before it hits the scupper but what I think it really needs is to move the bracket down apprx 6” and notch it to clear the scupper. I really don’t want a garelick mount that I have to fight to get up and down off the stern in bad weather (that’s what I’m replacing) and the new kicker is hydrolic tilt so I need a fixed bracket. Unless I want to repatch the new bracket holes and relocate the bracket lower, I’m thinking a new custom bracket designed to use the existing holes but will sit the engine 6” lower is the best way to go at this stage?

 

[kingblazer84]

Ya thanks guys - this is really disheartening to say the least. I can move the bracket down 3” before it hits the scupper but what I think it really needs is to move the bracket down apprx 6” and notch it to clear the scupper. I really don’t want a garelick mount that I have to fight to get up and down off the stern in bad weather (that’s what I’m replacing) and the new kicker is hydrolic tilt so I want a fixed bracket. Unless I want to repatch the new bracket holes and relocate the bracket lower, I’m thinking a new custom bracket designed to use the existing holes but will sit the engine 6” lower is the best way to go at this stage?

Is there no warranty on install? If you just had it done I would assume you have atleast 30 days to be happy with it... at min! Like @Rain City said I’d be flipping my lid if they don’t want to fix the mistake as they should have known better and right away!

 

[walleyes]

Ya thanks guys - this is really disheartening to say the least. I can move the bracket down 3” before it hits the scupper but what I think it really needs is to move the bracket down apprx 6” and notch it to clear the scupper. I really don’t want a garelick mount that I have to fight to get up and down off the stern in bad weather (that’s what I’m replacing) and the new kicker is hydrolic tilt so I want a fixed bracket. Unless I want to repatch the new bracket holes and relocate the bracket lower, I’m thinking a new custom bracket designed to use the existing holes but will sit the engine 6” lower is the best way to go at this stage?

To save some money I’m sure any decent fab shop could use this existing bracket and modify it to what you need. Use the base plate, cut it off the sides, slide it down 6”, re weld it to the base plate and either use the material form the sides that is hanging down past the base plate to gusset it again or add some material to it. Should be a pretty basic build.

 

[SpringVelocity]

Save yourself some grief. For the cost of screwing around with fab shop ( must of us won't want to do it anyway as there is little money in it). I would just bite the bullet and talk too the place you got motor with. Either exchange it ...or have them put on mercury extension kit. Those kits or $900.00

You shouldn't have to be going thorough this. Leave bracket alone. If they won't take it back tell them to install extension for free. I think that is fair in this case. You pay for extension and they cover install. A win if you ask me.

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[SpringVelocity]

Another option you could do is contact these guys about your problem. I pretty sure that is adventure marine one you have.

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I am sure if you asked they might be able to make the same one with holes dropped down. Then you can unload the one you have. These are made on mainland in Mission.

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[profisher]

Here are pics of my 22 Seasport with an e-long 9.9 Yam on a fixed bracket. You can see where the bracket is mounted on the transom in relation to the boot stripe line. I had my brqcket custom built and it has small rounded out cutouts to come around the scuppers and allow it to mount low enough.