Campion 542 Steering, Trim, and Kicker Questions

[dogdude]

I have a 2004 campion 542 with Suzuki DF140 (no kicker) and have a few questions about trim and balance with it. (edited to add photo).

First issue is stiff steering/side to side balance:
The steering is quite stiff to port (need to two hand it quite hard), and quite easy to starboard (easy single hand). When on the trailer I can move the engine by hand and it moves the helm. The steering is pretty stiff out of the water on the trailer as well. The trim tab trailing edge is pointed starboard (clocked maybe 15 degrees). The boat also has smart tabs installed.

I haven't done a full trouble shoot of the steering system yet, but I'm wondering if upgrading to an NFB system will help solve these problems? The added benefit is I get a new steering system on the current 20 year old setup. (I'm assuming I don't have NFB because I can move the wheel by moving the main, though the steering is stiff enough I can take my hands off the wheel while cruising, if I wanted to, but I don't think I'd trust it for long).

The boat also wants to lean pretty hard to port, trimming helps a bit but it's a fine line and it really likes a port side lean.

Second Issue, adding a kicker and balance:
I'd like to add a kicker, and am limited to the built in spot on port side of the transom, will this significantly impact the balance? I can't really move batteries to help as there is limited space.

I'd also like to know what others suggest for a kicker on this boat (HP and shaft length). Kicker would be mainly a safety backup as I'll troll with the main.

Any tips on the above would be appreciated.

 

[Pineapple Express]

You could upgrade to a new NFB cable system or hydraulic. Hydraulic is nice for sure.

For the listing while running, I'm wondering if your motor is mounted too low, or you're running trimmed all the way down all the time. Do you have photos of your boat and how it's set up?

For a safety backup kicker the Tohatsu 6hp saildrive model might be a good option. If you're gonna use the kicker for salmon trolling then a high-thrust Yamaha 9.9 or Mercury ProKicker are the standard choices.

 

[dogdude]

You could upgrade to a new NFB cable system or hydraulic. Hydraulic is nice for sure.

For the listing while running, I'm wondering if your motor is mounted too low, or you're running trimmed all the way down all the time. Do you have photos of your boat and how it's set up?

For a safety backup kicker the Tohatsu 6hp saildrive model might be a good option. If you're gonna use the kicker for salmon trolling then a high-thrust Yamaha 9.9 or Mercury ProKicker are the standard choices.

I added a photo to the original post.

 

[Tips Up]

Sounds like your steering cable is seizing up. You will want to fix that asap before it seizes completely or breaks while on the water.
Replace the cable is cheapest and easiest but a 140 on that size of boat will always torque and pull to one side. Replace it with hydraulic and don't look back. See other threads on this. Changing my steering to hydraulic was the biggest game changer on my boat. You can leave the helm without the steering spinning to one side. Tell your wife it is safer and do it.

 

[Pineapple Express]

Motor mounting height is difficult to determine in this pic. Looks low to me.

Those spring-actuated trim tabs are concerning to me. I've used them on a 16ft rigid inflatable and the tabs are TERRIBLE! They absolutely bury the bow down once you're at cruising speed and make the steering squirely. I would strongly recommend that you install normal electric trim tabs that the operator can adjust as needed.

Have you had this boat for a while? The boat setup with those spring-actuated trim tabs and that SE Sport hydrofoil look like somebody was trying to compensate for too much weight too far aft or to keep the bow down when running slow in rough water.

 

[dogdude]

Motor mounting height is difficult to determine in this pic. Looks low to me.

Those spring-actuated trim tabs are concerning to me. I've used them on a 16ft rigid inflatable and the tabs are TERRIBLE! They absolutely bury the bow down once you're at cruising speed and make the steering squirely. I would strongly recommend that you install normal electric trim tabs that the operator can adjust as needed.

Have you had this boat for a while? The boat setup with those spring-actuated trim tabs and that SE Sport hydrofoil look like somebody was trying to compensate for too much weight too far aft or to keep the bow down when running slow in rough water.

It's new to me, and I've had it out once to suss out what to start picking away at. It comes up on plane just fine and with a bit of trim adjust there was no bow bury (though if I trimmed down it would definitely go for a dive), and seemed to be okay in rougher water (minus the pull/steering).

 

[dogdude]

Sounds like your steering cable is seizing up. You will want to fix that asap before it seizes completely or breaks while on the water.
Replace the cable is cheapest and easiest but a 140 on that size of boat will always torque and pull to one side. Replace it with hydraulic and don't look back. See other threads on this. Changing my steering to hydraulic was the biggest game changer on my boat. You can leave the helm without the steering spinning to one side. Tell your wife it is safer and do it.

I've been considering hydraulic, any recommendations on what to go with? I would prefer to do the install myself.

 

[Rayvon]

Seastar or Uflex for hydraulic steering.I've never run that style of tabs ,but I can't see how they can be as good as the standard adjustable Bennett or Lenco tabs in electric or hydraulic.Electric are easy to install.If you don't plan on using the kicker to troll you could go to a 4 or 6 HP,but why not go to an 8 or 9.9 and save hours on your main motor.With a tie bar between them your steering will be super positive.I just helped you spend $6K+ ,no need to thank me.

 

[Pineapple Express]

Vevor is the Chinese knock-off of Seastar if you want to save some $$$

VEVOR Hydraulic Outboard Steering Kit, 150HP, Marine Boat Hydraulic Steering System, with Helm Pump Two-Way Lock Cylinder and 24 Feet Hydraulic Steering Hose, for Single Station Single-Engine Boats | VEVOR CA

VEVOR Hydraulic Outboard Steering Kit provides unmatched control with a 150HP capacity, dual-directional valve, 24ft high-pressure hoses, and versatile compatibility.

www.vevor.ca

 

[Corey_lax]

Vevor is the Chinese knock-off of Seastar if you want to save some $$$

VEVOR Hydraulic Outboard Steering Kit, 150HP, Marine Boat Hydraulic Steering System, with Helm Pump Two-Way Lock Cylinder and 24 Feet Hydraulic Steering Hose, for Single Station Single-Engine Boats | VEVOR CA

VEVOR Hydraulic Outboard Steering Kit provides unmatched control with a 150HP capacity, dual-directional valve, 24ft high-pressure hoses, and versatile compatibility.

www.vevor.ca

Some things I buy from Vevor but hydraulic steering is not one of them lol

 

[Rayvon]

Cable steering is a fraction of the price of hydraulic steering and should last for many years.A 150 HP and bigger should have hydraulic.The first thing I'd do is remove those tabs.You'd want a 25" leg on your kicker.

 

[dogdude]

Cable steering is a fraction of the price of hydraulic steering and should last for many years.A 150 HP and bigger should have hydraulic.The first thing I'd do is remove those tabs.You'd want a 25" leg on your kicker.

Are the tabs kind of useless as is? I’m guessing electric tabs could make a huge difference?

 

[SeaWolf]

It is hard to tell by the picture, but it appears that in order to accommodate the hydrofoil or whatever it is called, your anti-torque anode was removed. The anode is offset to prevent torque steer, which is what you are experiencing the prop rotates right. I'm guessing the previous owner then added the cheapest option to try to correct. When I bought my 2005 (new hull), the 150 hp was recommended to have hydraulic steering. I ran that boat with a 115, no hydrofoil, no tabs, with a kicker. Side to side lean can be adjusted by balancing the load, usually a cooler of ice. The question then becomes how much do you want to spend. Removing the foil, adding back the anode is cheap. Hydraulic steering and electric tabs are gonna be 4000-5000 if you do it yourself. I loved my 542, but at the end of the day, I always said while it was a big 18 ft'er, it still was only 18 ft. 4-5 g's do not add any more length.

 

[dogdude]

It is hard to tell by the picture, but it appears that in order to accommodate the hydrofoil or whatever it is called, your anti-torque anode was removed. The anode is offset to prevent torque steer, which is what you are experiencing the prop rotates right. I'm guessing the previous owner then added the cheapest option to try to correct. When I bought my 2005 (new hull), the 150 hp was recommended to have hydraulic steering. I ran that boat with a 115, no hydrofoil, no tabs, with a kicker. Side to side lean can be adjusted by balancing the load, usually a cooler of ice. The question then becomes how much do you want to spend. Removing the foil, adding back the anode is cheap. Hydraulic steering and electric tabs are gonna be 4000-5000 if you do it yourself. I loved my 542, but at the end of the day, I always said while it was a big 18 ft'er, it still was only 18 ft. 4-5 g's do not add any more length.
View attachment 116736

The anode is there. It’s clocked about 15 degrees with the trailing edge to starboard, which I believe is the correct position given the symptoms. Maybe it needs to go more? I agree it’s only 18’, but it’s my starter boat so I can decide if it’s something I want to stick with.

 

[SeaWolf]

I kept mine for 20 years. It’s a good boat! The foil may interfere with the original intent of the anode changing the waterflow. 140 is plenty of power. Was the previous owner a fisherman ( no kicker?) or more into watersports.

 

[SeaWolf]

As for my 18ft comment. In the wrong seas, the ride is gonna suck no matter what. Just what it is. Every boat has it’s limit.

 

[Rayvon]

Are the tabs kind of useless as is? I’m guessing electric tabs could make a huge difference?

In my opinion yes,I'd for sure go with new electrics.Try running without the hydrofoil to see which you like better.Every boat reacts differently with them.Make sure your steering anode is adjusted properly,if it steers left you want to move your anode to port and opposite if steering right.

 

[Max123]

The anode is there. It’s clocked about 15 degrees with the trailing edge to starboard, which I believe is the correct position given the symptoms. Maybe it needs to go more? I agree it’s only 18’, but it’s my starter boat so I can decide if it’s something I want to stick with.

The way to check this is to get it planing with a balanced load and then take your hands off the wheel. If it tracks straight, its fine - if the wheel starts to spin, adjust the tab. Arguably one of the annoying things about zero feedback hydraulic steering is that you can't get the tab setup correctly.

 

[CatchAll]

Your transom has a step in it like my explorer 185. I had a bad list, hard steering, and a lot of spray when I got the boat. I had to raise my motor until the anti ventilation plate was a little higher than the step - if that makes sense. Ignore the recessed area of the hull where the drain is at. Measure off of the furthest aft part of the transom.

 

[wagonmaster]

Interesting, I have the exact same boat which I purchased new in 2004. I had the same issues. I installed hydraulic steering made by Sea Star and the steering has worked well ever since. To correct the tendency for the boat to tilt to the port side, I had a fairly small trim tab attached to the port side (nothing on the starboard side) and that also solved the problem. I have quite large wings on the main engine leg (Yamaha 115) which I'm pretty sure I had installed after market as well.